Moved stove - problems with coals now

Hey all, hope everyone is doing well. Last week I moved my stove from my main living floor to my basement. When the stove was on the main living floor I would get cooked out of rooms but I would almost never have any coals at the end of the burn no matter what species of wood I would use (hard woods) Last weekend I finally had the time (injury) and the help of two friends to complete the new triple wall chimney and take the stove from upstairs to the basement. I love having the stove down there, It puts out the perfect amount of heat now for upstairs (low 70's) but I'm experiencing a problem with a ton of coals at the end of my burn cycle. I'm trying to think why all of a sudden this is a problem. The question is would I have a problem with excessive draft pulling all the heat out of the box, or forcing the wood to off gas to fast? Would a key damper fix this. The stove is a modern epa US Stove model 2500 (tractor supply) My chimney height went from 16ft (up stairs) to 24ft, both new an old chimney's has the 1st 6ft of pipe as single wall, then its triple wall from the support box to the cap. Also the basement install, my walls are cinder block type with no insulation, could the non insulated wall rob heat from the stove and that's why I have tons of coals?

To answer your questions, I have not changed any of my burning practices.. When the stove is in cruise mode the air is shut all the way, I'm using the same wood ( cherry , ash, white oak all with in 9-15%) I don't have a stove top thermometer, I have a Rutland for the chimney pipe and it pretty much stay in " good burn zone" like when the stove was up stairs, I do have more active secondary's and most of the excess large coals are in the rear of the box

Fire-man... Thanks brother, I'm going to pick one up tonight, I'll post my findings

Both chimneys were straight up and down through the house.. My house is a raised ranch ... So the basement is almost to grade with the ground.. Since on a hill the back part of the foundation were the stove is is approx 5ft below grade, but I have a walk out garage with level ground. I don't think I have a negative pressure situation, I think I have an over draft issue.. I picked up the damper and a length of stove pipe, I'll put it together and report on the findings... Thanks to everyone that made comments.. I love how everyone bounces ideas off each other, valuable info

Damper is in... Just started a fire .. Load of just cherry at 10.5% damper is in open position, just turned the air control down on the stove, going to wait until the fire box heats good then damper quarter turn intervals

Threw a couple pieces in, I have full secondary's going and flipped the damper shut, maintaining my stack temp as in the first pic.. I closed the damper fully about 5 min ago, I'm noticing some good results so far, my fire seems to be calmer with lazier flames, girlfriend even said wow, looks like an upstairs fire View attachment 145003hardly any smoke coming out the chimney cap

Just a quick comparison. The 1st pic is yesterday's fire air fully closed on the stove box, no damper and here's today's fire air fully closed with a damper added to the first length of pipe coming out of the stove the velocity of the fire seems much slower than yesterday's... I will report tomorrow about the coal situation and let you all know if it improved or not

Thank you, but I'm actually getting rid of it, hopefully the blaze king princess that I ordered comes in soon, it's about 3 weeks later and the dealer said approx 2nd week in December before the shipment comes in.. This stove looks good and is a pretty good heater but its falling apart , I have cracks around the edges of the door, I had to retap all screw holes for the secondary reburn tubes because they sheared off when I removed the tubes to drop the flakey baffle board down to clean the chimney, other then the good heat this stove is a poor performer and I do not recommend this stove or brand to anyone, save your money and buy a better quality stove, and if your on a budget go with englander , they use beefier steel and its made in America

At 20:45 I loaded the stove up, it was running at full capacity, good heat, dampered down and closed the air down, went to bed.. Woke up this morning at 5:00, went down stairs and was happy on what I saw, fewer coals, more ash then previous fires, my fire box conditions were that of having the stove burn through like it was upstairs, the key damper is a success. To all that are reading this please note that perhaps this is an isolated problem and I agree with Begreen that most basement installs with draft issues occur due to weaker draft, not over draft like my issue, once again thank you everyone for sharing comments, and having a great discussion..Be safe

Thank you.. I just got home from work.. Gone for 10 hrs.. Did a reload, the amount of ash to coal is much improved, it's just like pre basement install... I'm so happy to have this figured out in a quick amount of time, also the heat output of the stove has really improved, now I don't think I need to drop big $$ I don't have right now and can hold off till later in the winter when I get my tax return to stud and insulate the cinder block walls, I can get by at the moment, but I know insulation is the way to go to do it right

I still and always have shut my air control all the way down on my stove, the damper that was added to the chimney pipe created enough resistance to slow the natural draft while the stove was running.. Without the damper in the smoke pipe and with my stove air shut down there was still a considerable amount of draw, my thinking is because on modern stoves the design of the air control will not allow a full air shut down, plus the secondary air system has Fixed noncontrollable air inlets unless you tape them or seal them off manually