20 inch splits

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Kevin Dolan

Burning Hunk
Apr 7, 2012
248
SW Ontario
have a jotul castine and load ew with 20'inch splits. Usually 3- 4 inch splits and full length of firebox. When fully loaded goes for 7-8 hours with nice bed of coals for restrart. Anybody else use full lenght splits to fill firebox?
 
have a jotul castine and load ew with 20'inch splits. Usually 3- 4 inch splits and full length of firebox. When fully loaded goes for 7-8 hours with nice bed of coals for restrart. Anybody else use full lenght splits to fill firebox?
Guess this's thread sucks nobody burns 20 inch splits, just wondered.
 
I burn 24" splits people ususally cut to what ever fits in their stove not sure what you are asking?
 
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I use 20 inch length splits. The firebox can hold 22 inch length splits.
 
My Jotul F 600 will take 24" splits in the EW configuration. I typically cut my wood around 20" so that I have a couple inches leeway when loading and to allow burning on the ends of the logs. However, from time to time I'll end up with a log that is 23" or 24" long and I'll load it in the stove when it's cold so that if I encounter a problem, such as a piece of coal holding me up as I push it into the firebox, I can re-position the split without having to pull out a burning split!
 
My splits are about 1-2 inches shy of either side when I load EW. I read somewhere that leaving a gap of between 1-2 inches is a good idea. Not sure why, maybe becuase the flames themselves need some space to take hold.?

...Also makes it easier to get the wood in of course...
 
have a jotul castine and load ew with 20'inch splits. Usually 3- 4 inch splits and full length of firebox. When fully loaded goes for 7-8 hours with nice bed of coals for restrart. Anybody else use full lenght splits to fill firebox?


I found it a little easier to use splits were a couple inches short overall, don't bonk the firebrick in back, easy to ensure the door closes.
 
When I was using wood stoves we would cut it as long as we could and still get it in the stove. Small pieces means more handling and more pieces.
 
I try to cut 18" + or - one inch. Pretty anal about it too. Use my 18" bar as a good reference. Think my stove could take 20 to 22 " but I like space as others have said......
 
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My stove fits 22 inches but its super snug and you can only get about 2 small/medium splits in that size or 1 big overnight honker. There is more room to fit splits on top but they have to be about 18 inches as the firebox tapers as you move vertically.

Regardless I cut all my wood to 22 inches the first year as I was like "oh yea" it says my stove takes 22 inch logs. Bad Idea. I then needed smaller splits to fill the top of the fire box and had only a short supply.

The past two years I have cut my wood 18 inches. That way there is a few inches on either side to catch, I feel it provides much better air flow in the stove as well, and I can really jam the wood in there tight.

I also have and 18inch bar on my saw and that makes it super easy to cut to spec as well without having to have a marker piece and make guide cuts down an big fat log.
 
I'm "new " to cutting firewood, with thousands of hours chainsaw use, many time 80 foot in the air (arborist).

Anyhow, I need to break my habit of just cutting into whatever length we can get out of the yard. I find that by using my bar to measure, I end up with even cuts, and my go to saw usually runs a 18" so it makes measuring quick.
 
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My stove can take up to 25" but I mostly cut to 20" because I can load 20" pieces through the top of my stove. Lot less messy then opening the doors
 
I am burning 20" splits in the 450 insert right now. No problems. Full bed of coals always. My piles are a mix of lengths from the kids cutting from the log pile. so as I bring in wood I separate and collate. Its a sickness. If I bring in a short piece it is accompanied by the shorter piece to fill the void-Ha Ha Ha.
I have a mark on my slider so I open it to 20"- its a sickness!
 
Mine takes 22 3/4", I like to cut to 21-22" lengths to maximize my firebox fill. I'm not worried about leaving space to burn at the ends...

My firebox doesn't taper, I would think that would just be a big PITA to deal with...
 
Not quite sure what the question is . . . if it's do I buck up my firewood to be the exact length of the firebox . . . nope . . . experience has shown me that ash can build up by the way I tend to load it and wood isn't always perfectly straight . . . I tend to cut it a couple inches shorter so I know it will fit into the firebox each and every time.

Nothing is worse than putting a split into the firebox, having it catch on fire and then discovering that the door doesn't close because I cut it crooked, there is a bit of a bend in it, etc.
 
I have an e/w stove but sometimes like to cut splits short enough to load n/s . Either way it works better to have them cut short enough to have some wiggle room .........
 
Thx for all the replies. I was just wondering if people cut slightly shorter than their firebox and that is pretty much what people seem to do.
 
My wood burner takes 20" splits, and I have a 20" bar on the chainsaw. Makes measuring pretty easy, so I go with it. I find that since it tapers front to back, I can get a *slightly* longer piece in the very front of the firebox, but I hate re-cutting stuff that's too long, so I try not to make too many of those.
 
Thx for all the replies. I was just wondering if people cut slightly shorter than their firebox and that is pretty much what people seem to do.

Yup . . . not a lot of folks are fond of running through their house with a burning split on fire . . . as they're trying to get the too long split outside into the snowbank. ;)
 
Not to mention there is a little science/magic to a perfect load up coupled with 24/7 burning so loading into a hot stove. Having splits that "just" fit creates all kinds of OH SH#@ moments potentially.
 
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