Which One Is Better

Neither. Sorry, but I would not install either of those in my home.

Do you own the structure this stove will be installed in?

Welcome to the forums. The Reginald, if not cracked or otherwise damaged, should be ok to throw some heat. As you are new to stoves, consider also that a safe flue/chimney and hearth (with proper clearances) is just as important as a sound stove. You need to make sure you properly vent whatever stove you use into a safe chimney system, with no combustibles (including mantle) too close, and are using dry wood, or else you run the risk of a house fire, chimney fire, CO poisoning, etc. Just a reminder, more homework to do than getting an online opinion of those two stoves!

Edit: that includes checking with your insurance agent, if you want to be assured of coverage.

The cracked stove is a no go at all.

The other stove reginald if it was in good burning order with no cracks could potentially be used but there is so much more to this than throwing a stove in the fireplace and calling it good.

Picture of the fire place help. Knowing the condition and specs of the current chimney and flue you want to install the stove into will help.

You will probably want the chimney cleaned previous to installation.

You should also strongly consider having the chimney lined with a stainless steel liner rather than considering a "slammer" install where you just shove the stove into the chimney and allow it to vent through the current chimney.

Keep looking.....

Charles1981 said:

You should also strongly consider having the chimney lined with a stainless steel liner rather than considering a "slammer" install where you just shove the stove into the chimney and allow it to vent through the current chimney.

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You left out the in-between option, a direct-connect where a length of pipe goes up beyond the smoke shelf. For a 4-month install of a non-EPA stove for emergency use, that should suffice, so long as the wood is dry and is burned hot (not smoldered).

IMHO if I where in your position I would buy a generator or keep one reserved at your local tool rental.

Maplehead said:

So then the trailblazer is out, i will scrap that. We checked the Reginald tonight and there are No light leaks. How much would a 6" liner be up a approx. 16ft chimney? The last thing i want is something un-safe, but our chimney looks great and they did a great job re-building it, if you did a direct-connect wouldnt the ash fall back?. Our fireplace is 34 wideX 28 deepX26 High. Wife will not be to happy about the way the reginald looks . How much can you get for a stove scrap?

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I got $40 even for my old 500lb Gibraltar insert at the local scrap yard...

bholler said:

i know it passes code but i dont see why it is a horrible way to install a stove only a little better than a slammer

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It passes code for a reason... because even though it may be a horrible way to install a stove it's A LOT better than a slammer. A slammer poses an imminent threat of gasses entering the living space and of house fire, since creosote builds up right near the stove in the fireplace. But a DC poses only a potential threat of chimney fire, and then only if all the PITA steps of keeping things clean are not followed.

A direct-connect does not make any sense for a long-term 24/7 install, or for ANY install of an EPA stove where it would not provide sufficient draft.

For maybe a dozen fires over a few month period with a non-EPA stove, putting in a direct-connect (w/ block-off) does make sense, though, if the flue is already clean and not extremely over-sized, and the stove is burned clean and hot. You give the impression that a direct-connect is inherently dangerous in all scenarios. Is it really?

It IS potentially dangerous, and it IS a real PITA to properly maintain, and it IS ill-advised in general. Had one myself once, and hated it... but it's what I'd do if he were me, in this situation.

bholler said:

It i it allows creosote down around the outside of the liner... and possibly ignite

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Well, no, it doesn't in itself allow that... the person who fails to burn cleanly, and fails to monitor and maintain his setup, is what does that. Creosote that is removed, or not produced in the first place, cannot possibly create a massive chimney fire. That's my whole point... a DC is not inherently dangerous, only dangerous if allowed to be so by neglecting the PITA work required, by a lazy, ignorant or incompetent owner.

If I tried, I could create far worse conditions by burning green wood and shutting my bypass prematurely. So my EPA stove with fully insulated liner could easily be more of a creosote factory in the wrong hands than a non-EPA direct-connect in the right hands.

Doing something right does not simply rest in the one-time setup of the installer, it rests in the continued diligence of the operator.

bholler said:

Really how much more would it cost to run a cheap ss liner all the way up it is really no easier to do a direct connect To me the savings of a few hundred would not be worth the potential risk.

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I think you answered your question... a few hundred. Possibly better spent, if one had to choose, say, on a new set of snow tires? Weigh the odds, make your choice... I'll make mine. A direct-connect can be made a lot less risky than a car with any set of tires, since you get to choose who drives the stove!

Maplehead said:

Can a welder weld up a crack like that to get us by or would that be a real fire hazard as i have young kids. Like i said this would be primarly used as emergency daily and occasionaly on the weekends.

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A welder could absolutely repair those cracks. They might grind it down to look pretty, but a good bead of weld would seal that right up. I would get the cracked stove repaired since it seems much larger. Normally I would say to get away from both of these stoves, but since this is for emergency heat, either of these old stoves is better than nothing.

If you can find a local welder who will do it, that would be my choice.