Auger Problem--Castile Insert

Try jumping the #2 snap disc to see if that helps. Let us know. kap

The # 2 snap disc is a safety feature that shuts down the auger power if stove overheats. It should have continuity till it heats up and snaps open. You can also bench test the auger motor by using a three prong plug-in wire and hooking bare ends up to motor wires. It is 120 v. Do you have a clear or gray control box? And remember the only time there will be power to auger motor is when it is suppose to be running, feeding fuel. 1 minute on initial feed, and then periodically after that. you will have to hit reset to keep testing for power. If the spoon jammed it, you could have toasted auger motor or control box. And are there any lights in control box? kap

Since you seem to be ok with electrical, I will give you this. Turn on thermostat circuit and make sure that the call light is on. Check for power at the vacuum switch.
A. If no power from red wire-- check control box or wire harness
B. power on red but no power on orange--check vacuum switch or vent system.
Check for power at the orange wire going to snap disc#2
A. If no power from orange wire-- check wire harness or reset the snap disc.
B. If power is present-- replace the feed motor or check connector pin or capacitor
Remember that the feed circuit initial feed time is 60 seconds. Push the reset button before each test

Have you jumped the snap disc yet?

If the snap disc has a reset button, you can push it. Otherwise I would just jump the wires together to see if auger will run. Stay in touch with progress. kap

Some of em have the reset button, some don't. Quad changed things thru the years. It is usually between the spade connectors.

mikefreeville said:

When I pulled the auger out I found a spoon inside the auger feed tube.

Click to expand...

Welcome to this forum, Mike ! Curious about your spoon in the auger findings. Kids perhaps, 'helping you out of your mind' no doubt, playing in the stove hopper? It's amazing the stuff that can end up in the hopper and eventually the auger if not caught before that.

Here's the different #2 snap disc styles - mine does not have the reset post on the #2 like my #3 disc does. The auto - reset style has a finite number of resets before they're toast, apparently. Did you have a convection blower shut down that would have over-fired the stove and kicked out the # 2?

Happy Turkey Day kap, Mike and everybody ! We're getting ready for our turkey feed and post-dinner tryptophan induced nap after spending the day shoveling and snow blowing 14" of New England's version of 'Sierra Cement' in the 32.5 F Nor'easter snow storm last night !

All you have to do is bypass the vac switch too, by jumping wires together. kap

Happy Turkey Day Dm. and all. I just finished dishes, and a pc. of pecan pie. I'm stuffed. Time to hit the couch

About the only thing left is the control box. Do you have someone with a quad stove you can test it in? Just make sure to unplug stove before removing and installing control boxes, or you will toast em. kap

mikefreeville said:

have power to vacuum switch but still none to stove even if i jump snap disc. Could vacuum switch be the culprit? Any way to test it?

Click to expand...

You have power to the vacuum switch, and you have bypassed the snap disk. The ONLY thing between that power and the auger motor IS the vacuum switch. You are measuring voltage from your measuring point and chassis ground, right? If you jump the vacuum switch leads, you will have power to the auger motor; however, the only other possibility is that the neutral lead of the motor is not connected to chassis ground, completing the circuit.

He jumped switch, and still no go

kappel15 said:

He jumped switch, and still no go

Click to expand...

He jumped the switch BUT we are all assuming that the motor is connected to the neutral. If he has power at the input of the vacuum switch and he has properly jumped both the switch and the snap disk AND he has successfully bench tested the motor, then the motor can't be connected to the neutral to complete the circuit. There's a lot of 'ifs' in there though. If he's measuring voltage across the vacuum switch, then he would/should see 120 volts. Across the snap switch he should see zero volts. Across the motor if it is not connected to neutral, he would see zero volts with the other stuff jumped. If the motor were connected to neutral, he would see 120 volts.
He also makes mention of a magnet but I have NO IDEA what that is!

I hear ya. there is power on one side of vac switch, but not on other when jumped. something is amiss