New ZC fireplace installed

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MasonsDad

New Member
Nov 12, 2014
17
SouthWestern PA
Recently installed a north star ZC fireplace and wondering how do I read temperatures on it since it is so well insulated and no chimney access? Taking temperatures off of the metal frame on the glass door accurate for stove temps?

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Too tough to check temps with ZC's...just watch the fire and you'll figure it out.
 
I think I am doing everything right. Loading full. Open air till fire gets rolling. Cut air back and let the secondaries burn. Just not sure at what point I would be over firing. Air closed all the way down and the door framework gets up to 600-650 for 20-30 minutes at peek burn. Just don't want to overfire or worse
 
I took the face or facia off mine so I could reach into the top above the firebox and stuck a magnetic stove thermometer on the stove chimney pipe collar. Then put the facia back on. I tend to run it around 500 to 700 degrees based on that.
 
Thanks. I can see mine thru the air vents on top and with the heat gun it seems to run around 380 to 400, but that number is probably misleading as I would think the blower cools it off a bit
 
I took the face or facia off mine so I could reach into the top above the firebox and stuck a magnetic stove thermometer on the stove chimney pipe collar. Then put the facia back on. I tend to run it around 500 to 700 degrees based on that.
What temps do you get on the front door frame? Are you using the air cooled chimney? Do you have any pics of how full you load the firebox or the placement of your thermometer? Sorry for all the questions, but can't seem to find anyone that has this unit for advice.
 
That's a very handsome installation. It looks great!

If you want to go by instrumentation you will have to use a thermometer on the upper front face and come up with your own offsets for normal running temp.
 
That's a very handsome installation. It looks great!

If you want to go by instrumentation you will have to use a thermometer on the upper front face and come up with your own offsets for normal running temp.
Thank you. Turned out fairly well. I think I may be under firing this thing, but not confident in loading it full and blazing away without knowing if it's getting too hot. Getting some dirty glass and my chimney cap is dirty after only a couple weeks of use. Is it easy to over fire? The door frame is the only part that is not insulated and I can get peak readings of 650 with heat gun but it stays around 450deg.

After an overnight burn (air turned all the way down) I still have hot coals in the am, but the glass is filthy
 
Sounds like you can take it a little hotter at the peak and shoot for maybe 550F steady?
 
My ZC fireplace runs at 700-900 (measured on front glass/door frame) with the primary air completely closed. I've been burning like this for 5 years with no ill effects.

My secondaries glow red, but they aren't showing any signs of damage from running that hot. I think your front glass temps are fine...
 
My ZC fireplace runs at 700-900 (measured on front glass/door frame) with the primary air completely closed. I've been burning like this for 5 years with no ill effects.

My secondaries glow red, but they aren't showing any signs of damage from running that hot. I think your front glass temps are fine...
thank you. glad to hear some real world info. Makes me much more comfortable running it at hotter temps and going to bed at night
 
Recently installed a north star ZC fireplace and wondering how do I read temperatures on it since it is so well insulated and no chimney access? Taking temperatures off of the metal frame on the glass door accurate for stove temps?

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On my North Star, I put a simple Rutland temp gauge on the steel chimney pipe riser behind the upper grille (you have to do it with the fascia removed). You can easily see it looking thru.

Basically, after loading, I run it until it's just past straight up (between 500 and 600) then I close it off.
 
On my North Star, I put a simple Rutland temp gauge on the steel chimney pipe riser behind the upper grille (you have to do it with the fascia removed). You can easily see it looking thru.

Basically, after loading, I run it until it's just past straight up (between 500 and 600) then I close it off.
Does running the fan give you false readings when putting the thermometer on that part of the stove pipe?
 
Honestly, I've never taken a reading without the fan on. I have checked the rutland against my Fluke IR, it's within 50 or so (rutland reads high). This is the way I've been running it since 2008 when I installed it. I think as long as the fan is running constantly, the reading will be stabilized the whole time.
 
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