Hello, I have a Fisher mama bear with a six inch rear opening. I was wondering if there is an adapter or something I need coming out of back before installing elbow? It seems as though the six inch crimped male end of the elbow I tried would not fit in. It seemed impossible to insert. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Fisher Mama Bear Install Question
- Thread starter CharlieBeans
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Alex C
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i have an old mill that has a 6" top opening. i had to buy an adapter by duravent to go from the collar on the stove to the first stove pipe piece. perhaps that could be a solution to your issue.
Thanks for the suggestion. I really have a feeling that what you are saying is exactly what I need considering how I couldn't get the elbow into stove opening. I will now look into that duravent adapter. Thanks again.
Alex C
Member
Yeah give it a try. Cheap part. Found mine on amazon. 6DBK-AD is the part No. Im sure other manufacturers make them and they are likely available at a local shop. I should mention I was running single wall out of the stove.
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Just curious, if the opening out of the back of my stove is 6in then why wouldn't a 6in crimped male end fit in it? Why would one need this adapter you suggested?
The first stoves didn't have pipe made for stove outlets to fit connector pipe. It was 6 inch OD not ID. It is common to over-crimp the male end with hand crimpers to make it fit.
I use a T on the back of the stove and cap the end. It slides over the flue pipe (on stove) just right. If you have a helper when cleaning chimney, I have them hold a bag over the open bottom end for debris to drop into.
Here's an explanation from another thread with flue pipe details;
Pertaining to freestanding stoves;
When licensees received their drawings for the stoves, the flue material required was 6" OD X 12 Ga. X 5" (long) pipe. Desinated as part # 111 BS. (Bear Stove) The wall thickness is close to 1/8" and the inside of this pipe (ID) is 5 3/4". With a hand crimper, you "over-crimp" the "male down" end to fit inside the flue outlet. Any condensation formed inside the flue will run back into the stove to be consumed.
AFTER 1980, for the UL listed stoves, 6" ID pipe with 1/4" wall thickness was used. (Measures 6 1/2" OD) Connector pipe with no crimp fits inside, so removing the factory crimp allows a tighter fit inside the flue collar.
There are instances where you will find the thicker wall 6" ID on an older stove. If the round hole cut out in the back was poorly cut, or out of round, it could be trued up to a 6 1/2" opening and the larger OD pipe was installed to be able to use the back piece.
I use a T on the back of the stove and cap the end. It slides over the flue pipe (on stove) just right. If you have a helper when cleaning chimney, I have them hold a bag over the open bottom end for debris to drop into.
Here's an explanation from another thread with flue pipe details;
Pertaining to freestanding stoves;
When licensees received their drawings for the stoves, the flue material required was 6" OD X 12 Ga. X 5" (long) pipe. Desinated as part # 111 BS. (Bear Stove) The wall thickness is close to 1/8" and the inside of this pipe (ID) is 5 3/4". With a hand crimper, you "over-crimp" the "male down" end to fit inside the flue outlet. Any condensation formed inside the flue will run back into the stove to be consumed.
AFTER 1980, for the UL listed stoves, 6" ID pipe with 1/4" wall thickness was used. (Measures 6 1/2" OD) Connector pipe with no crimp fits inside, so removing the factory crimp allows a tighter fit inside the flue collar.
There are instances where you will find the thicker wall 6" ID on an older stove. If the round hole cut out in the back was poorly cut, or out of round, it could be trued up to a 6 1/2" opening and the larger OD pipe was installed to be able to use the back piece.
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