Help me choose a saw

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Woodbee burner

New Member
Sep 15, 2014
27
Nevada
I have read lots of posts on this board about everything. Lately I've been reading about saws.

I am not familiar with small engine repair or maintenance so I am not sure a used saw would work as I'm not sure I could evaluate it's condition before purchasing.

Currently I have a 10" Ryobi 18v electric saw to resize the wood I bought, and it works surprisingly well for that. I had this before I bought my wood stove as it came in a package with some other tools.

I am getting an itch to get my own wood. I am thinking of starting by going to a lot where I can buy wood at 75 a cord but it is in logs so you have to buck it. In my area it costs around 250 to 350 per cord depending what you buy. Right now for instance they have ash in 30 - 40" logs at this lot. I saw that they just got some smaller stuff too.

This and my small electric will be my only saw for a while and cost is a big deal. What is the cheapest saw I can get away with in your cumulative opinion? I am really drawn to the cheap Chinese saws as I could get another saw once I form my own opinion on what I like.

Basically I want this first saw to buck up at least 10 cords and be SAFE to use (no experience running saws). Would any of these seem to fill that spot?

http://m.ebay.com/itm/400793862237?nav=SEARCH

http://m.ebay.com/itm/360717239050?nav=SEARCH

http://m.ebay.com/itm/251601181834?nav=SEARCH

Or this is also available at Home Depot (parts). I also thought maybe it would have more reliable safety stuff since it is sold at a big box store.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/231165037204?nav=SEARCH

http://m.ebay.com/itm/331396468622?nav=SEARCH
 
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I have a poulen pro. It is the next size bigger. I had 7 cords of logs delivered that needed to be cut up. I have done about half. It worked fine, it was just slow. I sharpened the chain at least once every tank of gas. That helped some.

If you aren't that good with small engines, I wouldn't get the Chinese ones. If it breaks, where are you going to take it?
 
If $$$ is an issue, the best bang for the buck is an Echo CS-590, a 60cc saw which you would need for the size logs your are mentioning.
 
Why not keep an eye on craigslist in your area to see if you can get a Husqvarna or Stihl saw. You can or have a service center do a simple compression test to ascertain what condition the cylinder and piston are in. Those Chinese saws may work just fine but who is going to repair it for you when it breaks?
 
Save your money until you can afford a Stihl or husky. I've bought 2 saws new in my life, both Stihl. Only thing I've ever had to do for engine maintenance was change the spark plug and clean the air filter. Once you use a higher end saw, you will never use anything else.
 
Wasn't very experienced with saws either. Got 2 good power equipped places in town and talked to one in length. Had my heart set on a Husky Rancher. I walked out with a Husky 545. Great power, Light and is 1/2 regular series and 1/2 Xp. No regrets so far
 
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I was going to say My Husky is 27 yrs old and she is still going good I have done a few things to it but nothing more than regular maintenance from regular use.So I am partial to husky although stick to buying one from a standalone dealer not a big box store!! That way service will always be there but the whole stihl vs Husky thing I feel is like the Ford vs chevy some like certain features of one and characteristics.Jmho. Happy saw hunting!!!! I have heard good things about the Poulan Pro 5020 homeowner saw with some professional features 3/8 chain things like that!!!!
 
I'd recommend getting a brand that you can take to a dealer to get fixed if/when something breaks if you don't see yourself doing repairs yourself. That's going to rule out the Chinese models. I've heard good things like Harman said about the Poulan Pro 5020, but have no personal experience. I'd recommend something along the lines of a Stihl/Husqvarna/Echo/Dolmar/Jonsered. For the most part, any of the saws offered by those brands are going to be pretty good. You'll pay a lot more than $100, but in the end it'll be less headaches, and any of those saws should easily last for a decade or more of moderate use.
 
OK, thank you so much for the replys. I have another question. Are the homeowner saws from the bigger brands ok? I went to the Stihl dealer and they said that I would have a 2 year warranty (if I use their oil) and after that the most expensive repair would be 1/2 of the original cost of the saw. Here is my thinking. If I buy the new Farm Boss (cant remember the model #) for $500-600 if something catastrophic happens it is 300 to fix. If I buy the homeowner one I was eying then the max repair would be $150. Both have the same warranty.

Another idea, the 45cc Ryobi (for instance) for 120 has a 1 year warranty. For me I would find it acceptable that the saw lasted 1+ year and I bought 5 of them for the price of one Stihl. So now the question becomes is there a difference in regard to safety in the two? Also, is there a huge performance difference, and is it just that it cuts a bit slower? Any other differences? I do not intend to fix this saw if it is a cheapy unless I can do it myself (not worth the money). Now, if it is expensive (name brand) I will not fix it as I don't want to screw it up.

Last thing, I would need to wait to get the ranch/farm level saw as $300 would be a stretch right now even though it would save money on the wood in the long run (not me the wife). Am I overthinking this?
 
It depends on the size of the homeowner saw. The smallest Stihl I'd consider for full time firewood use is the 250. The 291 is probably built about the same, but will do better in larger wood.

And personally, I'm all about paying for quality upfront. I'll buy cheap throwaway tools if it's something I'll only use once. But a saw is something you'll keep around for a long time.
 
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I am also looking into the rental saw from home depot. This is my 1st choice as it seems like there is no doubt as to this saw's desirability. That said it sounds like a rarity that one is for sale in my area. I don't know if I will wait for it.
 
I went to the Stihl dealer and they said that I would have a 2 year warranty (if I use their oil) and after that the most expensive repair would be 1/2 of the original cost of the saw. Here is my thinking. If I buy the new Farm Boss (cant remember the model #) for $500-600 if something catastrophic happens it is 300 to fix. If I buy the homeowner one I was eying then the max repair would be $150.

I would not take that dealer's statement about maximum repair costs seriously. Dealer repair for some major problems would easily exceed half the cost of a cheaper saw. Unless he's putting such a promise in writing, I'd consider it worthless. That said, it doesn't make much sense to worry over maximum possible repair costs because with a good-quality machine the worst case scenario is unlikely if you're reasonably careful. Manufacturing defects that would cause major problems are uncommon, and when they do occur they tend to show up early, i.e. within the normal manufacturer's warranty. Beyond that, if you don't straight-gas the saw, drop a tree on it, run over it with a truck, fiddle with the carburetor without knowledgeable guidance, or ignore basic maintenance, it's really not likely to develop catastrophic problems.

Am I overthinking this?

Yes and no. The cheap Chinese saws you found on eBay and the Makita rental saws are worlds apart in quality and capability. That you're considering them both as possible solutions to the same problem suggests you're really casting about in the dark. You may also be underthinking some aspects of this. If a $300 saw is a stretch, then I would guess you might not have a vehicle capable of moving 30-40" rounds, and you almost certainly lack a big hydraulic splitter capable of breaking them up. Sure, you can slowly work your way through big logs with a small saw, and you can slowly, laboriously break up big rounds with sledge hammers and wedges. But if you're trying to put up heating fuel rather than just getting a good workout then speed matters. On a tight equipment budget, I'd look away from those big trees; they are not for you.

My suggestion is that you plan to handle and process logs that generally top out around 18" in diameter, occasionally pushing to 24" or so when a good opportunity presents itself. To that end, get the best 50cc saw you can, with an 18" bar. I'd opt for a good used saw from a trusted seller over a new saw that you know is poor quality from the start. You should be able to spend somewhere in the neighborhood of $200 and get a machine that will serve much better and longer than any of the machines you linked to in your original post.
 
Goto arboristsite forums and search 5020 or poulan pro 5020. Several members on there have bought one of those saws and from the sounds of things money is an issue on this purchase so I would say this saw is the best bang for your buck at the moment but do the research on them as they are made by husqvarna. . Lowes also sells them and if you opened up a lowes account provided you dont already have one you could save 10% out of the gate and maybe more by signing up as they have all kinds of deals !!!! Again this is Jmho based on your previous posts. By all means if you have the funds get a stihl or a husky xp and you will be so much more happier while cutting!!! It is so much nicer to use a powerful professional grade saw while bucking up wood!!! Again happy hunting! !!!
 
I also forgot to mention Sears has a craftsman saw 50cc 20 inch bar this is a poulan pro saw just black and gray with craftsman on the bar might run across a deal there never know!!! Tons of info on the net about these saws also ....
 
I would not take that dealer's statement about maximum repair costs seriously. Dealer repair for some major problems would easily exceed half the cost of a cheaper saw. Unless he's putting such a promise in writing, I'd consider it worthless. That said, it doesn't make much sense to worry over maximum possible repair costs because with a good-quality machine the worst case scenario is unlikely if you're reasonably careful. Manufacturing defects that would cause major problems are uncommon, and when they do occur they tend to show up early, i.e. within the normal manufacturer's warranty. Beyond that, if you don't straight-gas the saw, drop a tree on it, run over it with a truck, fiddle with the carburetor without knowledgeable guidance, or ignore basic maintenance, it's really not likely to develop catastrophic problems.


.....

Very well stated ... agree 100% ... buy a good saw from a reputable dealer and there should be no major issues in most cases.
 
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Go read my review on www.baileysonline.com for the Tanaka 14" top handle arborists chainsaw. Amazing saw at an amazing (cheap) price and Baileys shipping is cheap too.

Pretty impressed with the entire Tanaka lineup. Tanaka is rebadged Hitachi btw.
 
http://www.husqvarna.com/us/products/professional-chainsaws/545/


If I where you!

I have husky 266,350,371xp,372xp
my 266 is from the 80's
350 is my brush saw with a stihl chain instead of safety chain.

So whatever you do buy, just make sure the bar and chain can be upgraded to the big boy teeth. cheaper than a new saw. if you start small. also you can find many homeowner saws on craigslist for 40 bucks poulans,echos, etc.
 
Mike is being a twerp. An MS362 is not in the OP's budget.
 
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Mike is being a twerp. An MS362 is not in the OP's budget.
I recognized that he picked a higher priced saw. But I was optimistic thinking that a saw like that was in the budget the OP was trying to stay.-LOL I was disappointed again when I did not see MSRP on the Stihl line.
 
The 362 is $700+
 
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Just spreading the word.

I'm sure this cheap pos from china would work too.
 
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