If a tree falls in the forest: Advice on "leaners"

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1750

Minister of Fire
Apr 21, 2013
532
Michigan
I'm assuming this is pretty common. If a tree falls but doesn't make it all the way to the ground, how do you cut it up with a chainsaw?

This is a nice little oak that's been dead for a few years. It's hung up in some hemlocks and I would like to cut it to add to my stacks. I was hoping someone had an approach they use in situations like this that might save me the never ending learning I do by trial and error. Thanks in advance. Here's a picture or two. image.jpg
 
You usually need to approach every leaner a bit different. Some leaners can be very dangerous and often not worth even dealing with, but that one looks safe enough and might be a good practice tree. The main thing you have worry about , besides getting hurt, is pinching your saw and getting it stuck. Usually people will cut from underneath cutting up, or at least finish the cut from underneath so the cut does not bind on your saw.
I would probably measure and start my cuts on the top as far up the trunk as I safely can and then finish the last one underneath so the trees falls to the ground,,,, then you may have to start repeat the process until you can get the top of the tree all the way on the ground.
 
Possible to pull it down with your truck? That's usually the easiest way.
 
first wait for that darn snow to melt. lol

it's hard to say with out seeing the big picture. The only advice I can give is to stop and think about the forces. Where the weight is and where it might try to go.. always have an exit plan. don't stare at the saw, watch the tree for movement. and maybe you can get a rope around it and pull it down.

last - don't do it alone. have a buddy. even if it's just someone with a cell phone that can call for help.

be safe.
 
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Thanks for the suggestions! This is down in a valley, so I can't pull on it with anything -- and, I don't have a truck!

Here's the "big picture" if it changes up the suggestions. Thanks again!

Oh, and the snow all melted yesterday... it's a sign from the wood gods.

IMG_0317.JPG
 
I would top cut about halfway through and then undercut your way up. It is going to be a process though, and it may not be worth the risk. Did you consider felling the tree it is stuck in? If you decide to undercut it make sure you're not alone.
 
That can be dangerous. Every cut the tree wants to fall, and you have to be sure it is not falling on you. As lumberjack said you cut from the top, finish at the bottom, but it will want to fall and bind at the bottom and chain will be above the ground and can come back at you. If you can use a come along to pull it down first it the best bet. I am lucky I have a Bobcat and I can push it or pull down at the base then I hook a chain up and pull it backwards until it comes down.
 
I cut the trunk at a height of around four feet above ground, where I can comfortably cut and easily back away from the tree as it falls. Start the cut from the top, stopping about halfway through. Finish the cut from the bottom so the log doesn't pinch the bar. When you are making these two cuts you will leave a hinge similar to the hinge you leave when you fell a tree.

The top of the tree will typically fall to the ground near the cut, and in many cases the tree will still be a leaner. you repeat the process as many times as necessary. Be careful as you 'walk' the tree toward the place it is stuck and the trunk becomes steeper. Eventually you can walk the tree to a vertical position and it will fall over.

It is possible to make your cuts at an angle so that the leaning trunk falls to one side of the axis of the lean, rather than straight down. Depending on how the tree in hung up it might be advantageous to walk it to one side or the other so it falls sooner. You can make the top cut to one side or the other, then the bottom cut parallel so that the hinge that breaks as the trunk falls directs the fall to one side or the other. This is hard to explain, but when you're out there cutting the tree you'll see what I mean.
 
New
Cut it at the base and come along it out of tree

I like this one ^

No bad reason to have a decent come-a-long for all sorts of projects that otherwise could be done if you could get your truck close enough.
 
That does not look that bad. I know it could be different up close.
I would do as Wood Duck describes. It looks like there is a lot of tree hung up in those branches.
 
Thanks, everyone! These are great suggestions. I don't have a come-along, but this might be the time to buy one.

I don't typically have anyone to cut with, so I'll just have to try and be extra careful.

Thanks again!
 
What lumberjack and others said. But when the base is attached like that it might not want to fold. When you get it separated from the trunk, put a come along or tugit on the tree bottom and drag it backwards until it falls out of the tree. Otherwise you need to continue to make the same top cut then back cut . At a point it gets very dangerous because the tree is above you. Also you can try pulling it off tree. If you haven't figured it out be prepared to get the saw pinched.


Just saw your comment , yes you need a come along. Get something good. I don't know which come along is good. They generally don't unwind well. I use a 1 ton chain tugit.
 
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Chain and a truck, wiggle it enough and it will fall
 
It's in an inaccessible ravine (and I don't have a truck).

Does anyone have a come-along that they recommend?

Thanks again for your suggestions, everyone!
 
I would leave it. Wait for mother nature to bring it down in a year or two. If it's in a ravine and no truck, then I would look for something simpler with better access. I don't see a large sum of wood to be had from the risk. I was foolish and messed around with a hanger similar to this and it really bucked around and jumped off of the stump. I did not get hurt but I was lucky.
 
Last weekend I took several leaning locust trees down using the method Wood Duck describes above...several of the leaners were 20 feet or more of trunk and I had to patiently work them to the ground cutting about 7.5 feet at a time depending on the amount of lean.20141130_160128.jpg

With sound wood...I'd start cutting on the top till about 3/4 through than finish from the bottom...Be careful gravity and ravines can gang up on ya. ;-)
 
Whatever you do DO NOT cut the tree it's hung up on there is a lot of energy in the leaner. I did that
one time never again on a lot smaller tree I got thrown about five feet in the blink of an eye,got red of the saw and found myself upside down over a rock just laid there and moved each of my limbs,everything moved so nothing broke then crawled out very lucky but lesson learned. I've cut 100's
of cords and am careful as I think I know what I'm doing but sometimes things don't work the way you think My 2 cents! Just be careful.
 
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I have one similar between my house and my neighbors from the last wind storm, its a good size cherry, I was going to cut the remaining stump so it falls sideways and everything drops to the ground, hard to see if you can do it with yours.
 
I have a cheap o come along and some nylon straps.
It has pulled things for miles about an inch at a time.
It couldn't have cost much.

1T_hand_cable_puller_MED.jpg
 
What are you using to get the wood out of there? 4 wheeler, etc?...pull with that. I've cut several leaners recently and they all require careful study before starting the saw, although this one doesn't look too bad. I agree with Whitepine and would stay away from the tree supporting it. If working this tree makes you too nervous just leave it for mother nature.
 
I just have to carry each piece up and out of the ravine. I usually cut them into 3 or 4 ft sections to save the number of trips, but some are so heavy I have to split them in place and move splits.

It's labor intensive, to be sure! I tell myself it's just great exercise that I'm getting -- plus additional btus to boot.
 
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