looking for an insert in Eugene Oregon. Anyone else lately?

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skikir

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Oct 29, 2007
7
Willamette Valley Oregon
I'm looking at replacing my insert. It's about 15 years old and came w/ the house and is pretty inefficient. I can't tell who made it. We only use it when we loose power because it gives a puff of smoke when opening the door and the smoke smell bothers the wife. When we do use it it heats most of the house quite nicely. I have TONs of wood on the property so the fuel question is answered and since we have it I might just as well use it. The fireplace only has a 21" vertical clearance so I'm looking at a small stove like an Avalon Pendlton or PE Vista. I was wondering about a good stove and good store and good installer in the Eugene/Springfield area.
 
Best bet is to go with the biggest box insert that you can get into the fireplace opening - I would measure your current insert and try to get something about the same size.

Also look at whether you need to install a liner, or replace an existing one - lots of older inserts were installed as "slammers" or direct connects, which are harder to clean and less efficient.

Gooserider
 
There is a liner all the way up the chimney. I don't know if I should have it replaced or reuse it. I'm sure when I have someone come out they'll say it needs replacing even if id doesn't. I'm sure I'll need the crown redone at least since it's begining to crumble.
 
Goose is talking about a SS liner made for the insert, do you have this or just a clay tile liner? A "slammer" is when the insert is simply slammed into the hole with no venting attached to it, very dangerous.
 
Which stores have you been to? Good Deal sheetmetal in Springfield has the best price on PEs. roben.
 
midgley's
fire for life
premium
orley's
viking
haven't got to springfield yet

I'm thinking about PE Vista or Avalon Pendleton at this point. If avalon had gold doors I'd go with them now.

I get this feeling unless you go to a $2K stove there all about the same.
 
Mike Wilson said:
Gooserider said:
Best bet is to go with the biggest box insert that you can get into the fireplace opening

Do exactly that.

-- Mike

I'm not too sure about that. The house is only about 1150 sqft. and the living room is not that big. I would think a large box would cook me out and/or not be as efficient.


I tried to get to Good Deal last night. He must be doing good bussiness since he's only open 10-4.
 
I think he meant go for the biggest box that will fit in your fireplace. With 21" clearance, it won't be that big a box. You might also want to look at the Country Striker C160 for a small insert.
 
skikir, Good deal is a one man shop so call first to make sure he is there. He told me he sells more PEs than the other dealers combined. His prices were $200- 400 lower than the eugene dealers. His overhead is much lower. roben.
 
I have a Pendleton and am annoyed by the amount of smoke roll-out when the door's opened. My flue is only twelve feet high (single story house) so maybe the stove needs more draft to be civilized. Mine burns fine, good control and plenty of secondary flame, so there's enough draft for that... just not enough to pull smoke (and more importantly in my view) fly ash up the pipe.

Eddy
 
Our neighbors have an Answer with the same problem, too short flue. The Pendelton manual calls for a minimum 15ft flue. That is the issue, not the stove. Add some pipe.
 
I've been talking to some co workers who have stoves and when I mention smoke coming comeing out when I open the stove door they always ask if I have a window open and how tight my house is. I'm wondering if there is a vacuum in the house pulling the smoke out for a brief moment.
 
skikir said:
I've been talking to some co workers who have stoves and when I mention smoke coming comeing out when I open the stove door they always ask if I have a window open and how tight my house is. I'm wondering if there is a vacuum in the house pulling the smoke out for a brief moment.

There can be several reasons for back puffing...

1. Inadequate draft - to short a pipe, obstructed, or oversize - extend the flue, clean it, or put in a liner as appropriate.

2. Working to fast - If you have a bypass damper you open before opening the door, open it and wait a few minutes, then open the door SLOWLY - often it helps to just crack it, wait a few seconds, and then open it all the way. Remember that when you open the door you are disrupting the existing flow of smoke and other gasses through the stove, you need to give it a moment to adjust to the new pattern. Also just flinging open the door can in and of itself produce a momentary vacuum.

3. Negative pressure in the house - usually more of a problem in modern, tightly sealed houses, or where there are multiple other appliances (exhaust fans, furnaces, clothesdriers, etc) competing for the air. Opening a window near the stove will often help if this is the cause.

Gooserider
 
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