Firewood management

clr8ter said:

We are into our 4th year of burning. At this point, we have 1 more year's worth of wood, so we need more, right away. Honestly, I've found the management of the wood to be the hardest part. When to buy/collect, how and where to stack, which wood is the driest, etc.
Specifically, my problems are; not a super good space. We have 3 acres, but when burning 4 cord a year, that's a lot of wood hanging around, about 12-16 cord. It's under a bunch of polar trees, lots of leaves and branches. Uneven ground.
I have read that the best way to stack it is single row, with space in between, which I do. But now, that spreads it out, and it's hard to top cover. This year, the top 3 or so layers of wood are getting a little skanky due to the leave that fall in the stacks. As it is, getting enough concrete blocks and skids to stack on, then some conveyor belt and rubber roofing to cover it is getting to be a huge pain, mess, and expense. Ideally, I'd like to build a drying shed/s, so the wood is always top covered. Unfortunately, I'd have to do some grading first, as the spot is somewhat uneven.

As the saying goes, "There is no problem that cannot be overcome by the liberal application of MONEY."

Also unfortunately, we're trying to save money on heating, not spend more. How do you guys manage your wood? Any suggestions?

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4 cord of hardwood is a lot of wood. How many sq ft are you heating?

I do exactly what you do. I single stack my oak/hickory. I space T-posts 24" on center and create 16' x 6 rows. Making a block of 3 cords. I separate the blocks by my lawnmower width. And topcover it all with sheets of galvanized roofing perpendicular to the rows. The 4" or so of open space between the rows face the predominant winds. And I get very very good ventilation.
This is for the 3 year wood. But I have a T-Post driver and puller and I use electric horse fence wire to tie the tops off. Because the T-Posts tend to shift and spread.
The lesser woods are stacked on pallets in a gravel driveway on the side of my house. They get hit with crosswinds and they do well stacked 3 deep down the length of the driveway.

I double row stack my wood on skids with space in the middle of the skid. I top cover it. Then I let it sit for 3 years. No problem.

I cut and split every year around this time. If I don't, I'll get behind. The wood will be used 2 years hence.

Is your property wooded? Reason I ask, if it is, you can cut saplings to stack your firewood on. Photo below.

That's how we do. The saplings last for several years and they're easy enough to replace once they're too rotten to use anymore. Ya don't need concrete slabs, cinderblocks, store-bought timbers, pallets, any of that.

You can stack two rows with a foot or so of space between them, it'll season just fine. For single rows, just cut top cover material to fit and lay splits or ugly pieces on it to hold it fast.

Making stacks longer helps, too. I used to make ours 20' in length. They're closer to 30' now.

If you're gonna need wood for next winter I'd respectfully suggest that you get it split and stacked right away. Soft maple, if you can get it, seasons well enough to burn in less than a year.

you can never have enough wood. Being a few years ahead is heat in the future. And no worries whether it is ready or not, or scramble to get some.
You can stack it on pallets 2 rows with a little air space between the rows, and it will dry just fine. If it not in the open, then cover the top.
I have 8+ cords stacked in the barn ready for the next 2+ years. I have last years load of about 7 cords 1/2 split and stacked, and the other 1/2 ready for processing. After that, I am getting another load soon to process this winter, if I feel like it. I'll do it at my leisure, without worry of falling behind. That is a priceless feeling. Getting 3 years ahead is not bad, and doesn't really take up much space. The secure feeling of having it is a good feeling. And, if we have another extended winter, I know I have plenty of good dry wood.

You can build a decent, cheap shed using free pallets from the local hardware store.
In the end, your saving a hell of a lot more money than using gas or oil.
Heating around here with oil or propane, for a decent sized home is anywhere between an optimistic $2,400.00 to $4,000.00+ dollars. Heating cost to heat my 2666 sf home, $300.00 to $350.00 plus processing fuel etc. Even when I ever finish my addition, and have a second stove going, it will be nil compared to using oil or gas.

clr8ter said:

As far as oak, I'm done with it. Dries way too slow. Rots way too easily. Burns nice after drying what, 20 years or so, but leaves clumps of clinkers in the bottom of the stove, and no coals to re-start. I realize maple is lower on the BTU's, but I have had much better luck drying and burning it.

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Let oak dry 3 years without getting wet and it will rock your world. If I had a choice all I would burn is oak.

clr8ter said:

We are into our 4th year of burning. At this point, we have 1 more year's worth of wood, so we need more, right away. Honestly, I've found the management of the wood to be the hardest part. When to buy/collect, how and where to stack, which wood is the driest, etc.
Specifically, my problems are; not a super good space. We have 3 acres, but when burning 4 cord a year, that's a lot of wood hanging around, about 12-16 cord. It's under a bunch of polar trees, lots of leaves and branches. Uneven ground.
I have read that the best way to stack it is single row, with space in between, which I do. But now, that spreads it out, and it's hard to top cover. This year, the top 3 or so layers of wood are getting a little skanky due to the leave that fall in the stacks. As it is, getting enough concrete blocks and skids to stack on, then some conveyor belt and rubber roofing to cover it is getting to be a huge pain, mess, and expense. Ideally, I'd like to build a drying shed/s, so the wood is always top covered. Unfortunately, I'd have to do some grading first, as the spot is somewhat uneven.

As the saying goes, "There is no problem that cannot be overcome by the liberal application of MONEY."

Also unfortunately, we're trying to save money on heating, not spend more. How do you guys manage your wood? Any suggestions?

Click to expand...

Don't worry about the "skanking." It's not enough of a problem where you and I live to be worth the extra effort to prevent it. I don't even top cover my wood until the fall I expect to use it. Wind and sun dry out rain or snow-wet lickety-split, so to speak, especially if it's in single rows.

I burn around four cords per year and have only one acre, so it can be done. I stack my wood in round 'holz hausen' stacks that are 8 ft in diameter and about 6.5 ft tall, so they hold about two cords each. I need six of them to stay three years ahead. They are in the back corner of the lot, out in the sun. The site isn't completely flat, but it is possible to stack on a slope. You just have to make sure that the bottom layer is propped up on one end to make the split level. After that you can stack normally (which for a holz hausen means the splits tilt inward).

clr8ter said:

By skunking, I mean the wood is heavy, has shrooms growing on it, and the outside layer is punky. And it doesn't burn for crap. I struggled with it the whole weekend. I chalk this up to the fact that I don't top cover it all, and the leaves fall in the pile, holding moisture. At one point, I simply could not top cover it all. I had too much. Now I'm thinking that the "buy once, cry once" method may be best. Level the area out, build semi- perm roofs, and forget it. Simply stack them full, and I'm good. Ideally, those poplars over there would go, but in the summer, they are kinda pleasant to look at, and the wife may have something to say about their removal.

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I'm scratching my head about how leaves get into single rows enough to cause a serious problem. But whatever. Just be sure you've got enough of a problem on enough splits to make all the effort worthwhile.

And btw, if you're talking rock maple and red oak, BTUs are about the same as red oak. The main diff with red oak, I find, is that it burns more slowly, making it really good for overnight loads in mid-winter. Otherwise, I'm with you. I'd rather have rock maple.

Leaves getting into the stacks would be my problem as well. They would hold in the dampness and prevent the air and sun to do it's drying. So I top cover. I have 13 years into turning the process.

Base is PVC pipes. pallets work but they rot the bottoms.
Stacks are double rows with ties between them. Never had a stack go over
Top pitched frames supports the tarps ontop. Keeps the tarps off the wood.
Tie downs like a tent with bungee cowards and adjustable ropes.

Not perfect yet. The biggest improvement has been making every thing more durable. I have a new permanent frame roof in the works. Next year.