Question about Regency's Alterra CS1200 woodstove

Fine folks sorry I'm so late to this thread but hopefully this helps: The firebox from face of back fire brick to the front of firebox is 12 to 12.5 inches deep and the firebox from side to side (again face of brick to face of brick) is 18.5 inches wide and the firebox from bottom to top is 10.25 inches tall. If you have any other questions on this sweet little stove please feel free to ask.

The dimensions will be similar to the Osburn 1100 that your "not wild about". I'd take a look at the Osburn Matrix or the PE Fusion that Begreen mentioned if the CS2400 is too big for your needs.

kingquad said:

The dimensions will be similar to the Osburn 1100 that your "not wild about". I'd take a look at the Osburn Matrix or the PE Fusion that Begreen mentioned if the CS2400 is too big for your needs.

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I'd agree after looking through their tech specs; virtually the same size assuming that they are measuring from face of brick to face of brick (instead of interior of steel sides).

begreen said:

LOL, I prefer the Fusion in black.

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Well, I think it's hot! Pun Intended! Seriously though I think our Alterra CS1200 is a pretty sleek looking stove. I think it looks a bit better with the ashlip actually which isn't pictured in this particular picture. I also think it looks a bit better (well, not "looks" better but "works" better) with the door reversed which is simple to switch. The CS1200 puts out plenty of heat for us. The CS2400 would have been too big in our instance (it is much much deeper if that is what anyone wants). I think the firebox is an almost square 18.5 x 18.5 but I haven't personally tested that with the tape measure.

Pascale said:

Turbocruiser you really look like you like your stove very much!

We live in a small townhouse (600 sq feet x 3 stories) so CS2400 would be overkill. But I'm not keen on buying without seeing the CS1200 "in person".
Could you tell me what are the dimensions of the REAL viewing area (I say real because even though the window looks quite large, they put some kind of black "shade" on the bottom part of the window so that even if it's not steel you can't see the fire through this area of the window. I noticed that in the showroom but forgot to measure the actual viewing dimensions.

Thanks again!

Pascale

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I think it's the same size as the cs2400, but not as deep. I'll defer to TC though.

Pascale said:

I'm curious to know why?

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The reason that I say I think it works better with the door reversed is really nothing more than basically being right handed; with the door reversed I can open the door with my right hand and load all the way towards both the right side and left side of stove without tilting my body more towards the door whereas when it was in the orientation of that picture that I posted I found that fiddly because I basically kept reaching with right to load to left so I sort of tilted toward the door. It is an ergonomic preference essentially I don't mean to say the stove itself "works better with the door reversed". Sorry if that caused any confusion.

We have a 1200 in a house outside of Lacrosse, WI. We burn maple, elm and oak from our woods. I have had a few stoves and the 1200 is very well built. The handle and other items feel solid and work well. Takes a while to warm up but retains heat well. We use an ecofan to distribute the heat. Is very effecient and when loaded lasts all night no problem.
The fire box is on the smaller side depth wise. The length in my mind is fine. If this is your primary heat source it is a bit small but it does look really good. We looked at the Euroepean brands and if you are looking for a contemporary stove that is very efficient at a reasonable price it is a winner.

Does that door open more than 90 degrees? My Hampton doesn't and it took some getting used to.

velvetfoot said:

Does that door open more than 90 degrees? My Hampton doesn't and it took some getting used to.

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I would give a guess that it opens in the range of roughly 100 to 105 degrees. It definitely does not open 180 degrees as with some stoves. But it is a really easily reversible door so that sort of helps.

That happened to my Hampton at first too. Don't get me wrong, it still does that, but not as much and not as tenacious. The newspaper or paper towel is wet and you put some ashes on it to act as a light abrasive?

PS: I really liked the look of the insert model of yours when I was shopping for mine. Congrats!

Pascale said:

No, I used it dry and without ashes but I'll try that. Thanks

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First, congratulations on getting a great stove, I know you really put a lot of thought and research into it. Yes, use water with the ash and the paper towel that really works well. I noticed the same thing with mine at first and realized that I was turning the air too far down too fast. What I do now and I asked Regency about it is start a fire with 1/2 full to 3/4 full load (I'm still not experienced enough to fill it fully without it trying to go nuclear especially with the lodgepole pine and pinon pine I have here), start it with the secondary air system 100% open, then at thirty minutes I reduce to about 50%, then at sixty minutes to about 25% and I am so far tending to run it no less then like 10% open (I still haven't completely closed the secondary air system) unless it is just a big bed of coals with no "wood" left and then it is fine without getting the glass dirty.

In the middle of learning all that I talked with Regency specifically about the glass getting dirty and they suggested that I not use any chemicals like cleaners but that I use 100% beeswax to get the glass clean if water with soft cloth alone couldn't cut it! I thought they were crazy but I got some terrific stuff from "The Honey Guy" http://www.thehoneyguy.com/POLISHES/Beeswax Furniture Polish.htm it is the one that is only beeswax and food grade mineral oil and it really works well. After the stove completely cools you take the stuff and smear it on evenly with a paper towel, most of the soot and smoke and stuff will come off right then and there. Then I get another paper towel with another smear of stuff and then let that "dry". Come back a bit later to buff the glass completely clean. You can even clean this way with warm stoves but you don't wait to buff the wax off; you just clean with one paper towel, clean with another, and then buff with another all while its warm. Regency really suggested not using anything abrasive (which ash would fall into that category) because after time the "shading" at the bottom might be scratched. I really wouldn't mind much if that shading totally went away so that would not worry me but in any case cleaning almost never needs more than water with paper towel unless some wood rolls over onto the glass and then that's tough. If wood rolls over onto the glass I go back to water with ash which really is the easiest fastest thing to do. Hope that helps.

[quote="turbocruiser, post: 1253285, member: 17922"First, congratulations ...

Have you had continual problems with keeping the glass clean? The Alterra specs claim "Exceptional air wash system keeps glass clean" but this unit will only stay clean for 45 minutes before turning a dark black again.

Welcome to the forum!

Black glass is often a sign of either wet wood or insufficient draft. What kind of flue do you have and how long has your wood been split + stacked and dried in the open getting lots of sun and wind?

TaraJane78 said:

[quote="turbocruiser, post: 1253285, member: 17922"First, congratulations ...

Have you had continual problems with keeping the glass clean? The Alterra specs claim "Exceptional air wash system keeps glass clean" but this unit will only stay clean for 45 minutes before turning a dark black again.

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Gosh, I'm so sorry I missed this post this long ago...to answer the question, my glass definitely doesn't do that; only at the extreme end of the burn cycle before I reload would I see any such discoloring but then as soon as I reload and get things going again the darker dirt will be wiped away again by the fire. Please accept that I intend no insult when I say this suggests the wood that you're burning might be a bit moist. The best thing I can advise is to invest $15 - $25 in a basic but accurate moisture meter and test the firewood by "splitting a split" and testing in the middle where moisture would be highest. This will give a good indication of the true moisture content of the wood. In my opinion firewood should be below 20% MC at the most. Hope this helps.