With the 25 ot would just keep burning with the 55 the maintenance is mucho importiento or performance suffers.
Englander 55 TRP IP-S aka 25 IP-S
- Thread starter kenstogie
- Start date
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mchasal
Burning Hunk
Hey @kenstogie
Hope all is well with you. I'm curious how your fiberboard panel is holding up? Mine got pretty bad in the middle of the season last year, basically the surface started flaking off. Englander replaced it under warranty with no problem but the new one is starting to show signs of the same issue. I'm wondering if there's something specific going on in my stove that's causing it or what. If this is going to be a 1 year use item, I might look at some alternative since they are $60 a pop.
Hope all is well with you. I'm curious how your fiberboard panel is holding up? Mine got pretty bad in the middle of the season last year, basically the surface started flaking off. Englander replaced it under warranty with no problem but the new one is starting to show signs of the same issue. I'm wondering if there's something specific going on in my stove that's causing it or what. If this is going to be a 1 year use item, I might look at some alternative since they are $60 a pop.
To get at the heat exchanger access ports you have to remove it so I just gave up on that in about two months, in addition they never sent me the screw that was needed for it so i had to improvise and it wasn't an absolute perfect fit.
Have you had to bang on the heat exchanger to clear it out? if not it can make a HUUUUGE difference. The eglander guy said he did it once a month if I remember correctly.
Have you had to bang on the heat exchanger to clear it out? if not it can make a HUUUUGE difference. The eglander guy said he did it once a month if I remember correctly.
UMainah
Member
Its not specific to you. I just noticed the same thing has happened to my parent's IP.
mchasal
Burning Hunk
Yes, I do that with my monthly cleaning. Curious what your improvisation was? I assume it's necessary to have some sort of protection there and it's not just for looks. I wish it was just some bracket for the thinner fire bricks. Not sure if that could be retrofitted since the thinnest I've seen are 1 1/4" and that's way thicker than the fiberboard. Not sure if they would interfere.
Thanks for the reassurance. Have they done anything about it? Mine never got to the point where it was worn out completely, but that's only because I had the warranty on it. I'll let this one go much further before I do anything about it.
Thinking of either trying the fire brick thing, or making a mold for casting replacements out of refractory cement.
I simply took it off and have left it off not a really well thought out part of the stove IMHO. It was fine last year and so far this year... I'd be interested in seeing what Englander says...
mchasal
Burning Hunk
Yeah, I'd be interested to hear what @stoveguy2esw has to say. If it's really just decorative, I'd pull it out too. I wouldn't have even bothered them for a warranty replacement if that were true and I had known.
kmapsrule
Member
Mine Broke after a couple of months, and I have been running without it as well, if it turns out its a needed thing, then I will get some refractory cement mix and make one with a wire mesh in it so it won't come apart but so far other than more surface area to have to brush off during cleaning I haven't seen any difference in operation.
The CPM has the same fiberboard. As far as I know, it's for looks only. I've been running without mine for well over a year now. It looked nice, but I couldn't justify $60 for something that I was going to break again. I forget it was even there sometimes, till I see a pic of a stove that still has it.
So i am away for an army school and the bolt that holds the ash pan latch assembly to the ash pan tray is stripped! So when youtry to close it it just basically falls apart (pulls through the ash pan front/face) and does not make a tight seal. Any suggestions? I would tap out a smaller sized thread IF i were home but i am states away and although the GF if pretty handy it is beyond her capablities I fear.
kmapsrule
Member
Do you have any of the foil tape used for the seams of the exhaust pipe lying around? Could use that to temporarily seal the bolt hole and hold the drawer shut tight till you can replace the bolt?
mchasal
Burning Hunk
On mine, and as illustrated in the manual snap below, that isn't a tapped hole, it's just a through hole on the ash pan and a nut on the back of the latch shaft.
So if there's anything stripped out, it should be an easily replaceable nut. I'd guess that they're a standard thread and a trip to Orange or Blue should find something suitable. Or are you saying the actual shaft is stripped out? Or is yours a different setup? Or some other way that I'm wrong that I haven't thought of?
So if there's anything stripped out, it should be an easily replaceable nut. I'd guess that they're a standard thread and a trip to Orange or Blue should find something suitable. Or are you saying the actual shaft is stripped out? Or is yours a different setup? Or some other way that I'm wrong that I haven't thought of?
Its the same set up and unfortunately is the shaft that goes through the front face of the ash pan.
mchasal
Burning Hunk
Ug, that sucks. Guess that needs to be replaced. But if it's that first nut inside the plate that's not holding, shouldn't it still hold the drawer closed? Yes it will fall out when you open it, but once you jiggle it and get it in the right position, the latch paddle against the inside of the chassis and the tension should hold it in, no? When latched, that nut is essentially not doing anything. I'm only questioning since you're not around and may not be getting a full picture of what's happening. Feel free to tell me to shut up.
ETA: Another thought, the hopper lid latch seems quite similar, I wonder if that could be cannibalized for parts or something. A brick on the hopper lid should keep it closed even without the latch for the short term.
ETA: Another thought, the hopper lid latch seems quite similar, I wonder if that could be cannibalized for parts or something. A brick on the hopper lid should keep it closed even without the latch for the short term.
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Tails1
Feeling the Heat
Handy thread. I too have one of these stoves and this is my first winter with it. It was a learning curve with it however now that I have it dialed in to burn properly it does the job well. I clean it only once a week and it uses maybe a bag of pellets every two days in this weather. I have it running with a remote thermostat. Keeps the house at 24c during the day and 21c at night.
Lake Girl
Moderator
Searching the forum will give you the full range of options tried, what works, what doesn't! Enjoy...
yup it's a good stove and kicks some heat.....knowijg whst i know now if i just bouht the stove...i would go over it more thoroughly....as i had a few issues with the assembly....
-the allen set screws for the auger assembly were loose from factory and are frankly to small for the set up but tapping out new holes and you are good to go
-no door handle (one was sent to me though)
-no faux brick (ditto as avbove)
-rust inside (which is no big deal but not very aesthetically pleasing)
-the ash pan assembly stripped out but i jb welded it and all it good
the biggest thing though was that the auger assembly was not caulked properly and you could see light coming from the fire box! i caulked it properly and it made a HUGE difference......i never wouldve noticed had i not been looked under the hood as it was burning...this made for the unit to pull air from the room and out the exhaust
great stove works great throws heat... could use some qc though at the factory....
Tails1
Feeling the Heat
Where exactly would I look to see if this is the case with mine? Was it causing a lazy flame/burn issues? I did find a few assembly issues with mine as well, like the door slowly unlatching from heating and cooling to the point is was falling off and although it is burning properly I still want to make sure. That sounds alarming.
I agree about the qc from the factory. Mine was missing the burn pot from factory and naive me I fired the stove without it, talk about dirty burn lol. I have learned much since then thanks to this board. Need to send the mods a pm if the host of this site takes donations.
pardon my messy caulk job..... the caulk the factory uses is black (i believe) i only had red so you can clearly see where it was redone......of course use high heat caulk....also the ingnitor is back there nearby and will burn you if it has been on recently..... i am 99% all of my burn issues were ultimately caused by that....lazy burn mostly on lower settings. love the stove but whoever set up my stove should be looking for a new line of work.....
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Tails1
Feeling the Heat
Tails1
Feeling the Heat
I checked mine and yes it is caulked but they didn't do a good job, there are huge globs and spots that were missed.They used black silicone. I have no trouble with stove performance right now however come time for spring cleaning I will scrape that old stuff off and redo it.
For those who are wondering what's going on in the exhaust / heat exchanger area.... I took a boroscope/camera and fed it back there... it's not the best video quality, You'll see the clean out ports and the round exhaust port on top that feed into the heat exchanger and then the exhaust/combustion fan.
WoodPorn
Minister of Fire
Great Idea Kenstogie.........I watched about 30 seconds of it, I'd need some dramamine to continue though.
Tails1
Feeling the Heat
Has anyone ever found any problems by removing that fiberboard on the back wall of the fire box? Mine is deteriorated and if I can just remove it and leave it out I will.
