Manufactured Home Wood Stove Installation Questions.

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mellis2188

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Hello,
So I bought a manufactured home back in April. The home came with a Vaxar Fireplace that I uninstalled and I built a hearth for a wood burning stove. Everything is to specifications for the stove placement per the manufacturers label on the back of the stove.
See before and after photos :)
So now its time for installation of chimney and stove pipe. I have a photo I drew up (sorry for the not so straight lines) of the things I have and what I think I need. I wanted to use the existing 12" single wall pipe so I would not have to change anything at the roof as far as flashing went and just run a triple wall pipe up the center of it. Code for a Manufactured home is Double wall Stove pipe and Triple wall Chimney pipe. Can I do this? Also, can I maybe put the Triple wall all the way through the 12" out the top, put a chimney cap on the triple wall and make some type of flashing to seal the gap between the triple wall and the 12" pipe? Or am I going to have to tear everything apart and take the 12" pipe out? I need some serious help here...
Thank you,
Michelle
 

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Sorry to tell you, but if you're gonna get this install approved, you'll hafta remove the air cooled chimney sections.
Install the ceiling support box, connector to Class A adapter & then your Class A all the way to the cap.
You might be able to get away with an oversized storm collar on your existing flashing & the new Class A.
The ceiling support box will probably need an extension on it to get all the way to the underside of the roof
sheathing & the extension will also act as an attic insulation shield.
I wouldn't use those 90 degree connectors either. 45 degree elbows will give you a better draft.
 
Note that you don't have to use triple wall chimney, it just has to be class A chimney pipe. There is good quality double-wall, class A chimney pipe out there as well.
 
in my mfgd home ive the same piping in ceiling as during jpg mine was/is 12 in stainless with these silly standoffs and 8 in od runnin up the 12.. I removed thee 8 in and standoffs. and ran my class A straight up thru center of thee 12 I used one or two standoffs to keep my class A centered .. so the outside Dia of my class A is two inches away from my stainless chaise my class A is locked and banded .. theres no way I see Id need to mess with the Chaise's square to round ceiling adapter other than to make it look nicer .. my dang class A can take an explosion in er and be good .. IMHO anyway..
 
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