Where's the heat, Myriad?

A M · Dec 1, 2014

csween said:
Being an owner of the same stove, I agree with everything Huntingdog had to say in his post. I was a newbie too last year at this time and I went through some of the same issues you're having with questionable wood, hard starts and bad results because mostly I didn't know what the heck I was doing. Fortunately I didn't have any issues with my chimney. Getting those Condor temp gauges will really help you see how the stove is performing and will help shorten your learning curve overall. I really like the bypass damper on this stove for getting fast starts and I also leave the handle on too and have never had an issue with it opening on its own. Once you get the kinks worked out you're really going to like this stove.

Hi, Csween ... I do appreciate your input and great that you also have the Drolet Myriad. I know a lot more now than I did one year ago, because I've been listening and reading to others, etc., but, I have yet to feel in command of everything I'm doing from starting the initial fire to when to turn the air down.

However, I'm feeling a whole lot better than the 2nd and 3rd day with it, a few days ago, when I first posted. I bet it is a very nice stove once I've got everything together and understand the basics more through my own trial and error. I've got to work on the "wood" part, though, and still looking for handy advice on cordless chainsaws that aren't too heavy for a woman, but, no one has voiced anything on that (yet). Maybe kidding myself on cutting my own wood throughout the year, but, thought I'd at least explore the idea. If I don't, then I've got to find a reliable wood seller and then owning a wood moisture meter is an absolute must, before buying that wood. Agree? Thanks, again!

A M · Dec 1, 2014

Hoozie said:
Yep, you need more chimney. I installed a new chimney this summer (now without a 3' horizontal run!) and my performance increase has been crazy. Between that and some good wood, I think I'm finally doing a good half of the wood consumption I had last year with the same stove.

The draft is what pulls air through the secondary tubes. Poor draft = poor secondaries = poor performance.

And to the OP, if you have the room and the finances, get started on next years wood now!

Hoozie, thanks for your reply and valued opinion. Yes, indeed, several people have said that I need more chimney pipe. I love that you mentioned putting in a new chimney (vertically), and that the "performance increase has been crazy." I also love to hear or read about people using LESS WOOD, once they've combined the right chimney height with the right (driest) wood.

I totally agree from talking to others: With a poor draft, there will not be good secondary burns and end result is the overall poor performance of one's stove.

Basically, in your specific situation, is it because you changed the orientation of the chimney and direction, that you are seeing lesser amounts of wood usage (with the SAME stove as last year?). That's exciting. You are saving money or rather, your money is going farther now.

Is your chimney pipe triple-wall? ... just wondering!

A M · Dec 1, 2014

WriteNoob said:
When you "shut down" one of these stoves, you're not killing the air, completely. There is still a very small amount getting in, by design. Also, there is air entering at the top, through the secondaries. However, you can't maintain a burn this way unless the wood is truly dry. I've only been able to do this, so far, with compressed bricks (Eco Bricks) and dimensional lumber. My cordwood isn't dry enough. Maybe next year.

A suggestion. If you don't yet have wood, for next year, you might want to get it between now and spring. And I'd stick to types that can be acceptably dry in a year, or less. Personally, I'm doing pine, as nobody else will touch the stuff, and gotten during this winter, can be ready next fall. Just be smarter than me, and cover your stacks. I didn't. That's why mine isn't quite primo. It'll soak up rain. Birch, some soft maples, and poplar are also quick driers, along with the conifers. If there is such a thing as a Holy Grail, for us new guys, truly dry wood has got to be it. With it, everything else is fairly easily learned. Without, and all the rest can seem futile. Learning this, the hard way (my most common form of education, it seems), myself, after I thought I had it all set to go.

Hi, WriteNoob ... great advice regarding "covering" the stacks/cords/any amount of wood.

I must say ... I looked at NTool and simple blue tarps (to cover the wood), are quite inexpensive. I assume that's what people use to cover their wood?!

I also like what you said about the specific species of trees, such as: birch, soft maples and poplar wood are quick driers. I didn't have a clue about that. Unfortunately, as much as I've always loved trees all my life, ... I am only good at recognizing (instantly) just one or two types of trees. But, I'll try and get some wood that will be dry by December, say, of 2015. I think after talking to several people on this post that as you said, ..."truly dry wood has got to be it" ... and that will be my main theme when I go searching for good DRY wood or whether I end up cutting it up myself for next year's fires.

Thank you for your input. Cross your fingers that tomorrow the weather cooperates enough that the extended chimney will be put on the roof and that tomorrow I will be building a good fire. We're suppose to go from 25 today to 42 tomorrow, but the nights are still in the 20s and/or 30s!

Hogwildz · Dec 1, 2014

Double wall stove pipe inside up to the ceiling support box, Triple wall class above the ceiling support box.
There is also a class A (for above the support box) double wall called Duratech. It is class A, not double wall stove pipe or DVL as Duravent calls it.
I was referring to compatibility issues with DuraPlus triple wall class A & Duratech double wall Class A. These two are not compatible as far as I know. Both are Class A, above the support box piping. You're okay with double wall stove pipe inside.

Hoozie · Dec 1, 2014

Yes, same stove, but with better wood and a better chimney = much better performance.

I have DVL (double wall) interior connector pipe from the stove to the ceiling, and Duratech (insulated double-wall Class-A) from the ceiling through the roof. If you already have Duraplus (triple wall Class-A) installed, just add another section (I believe this is your current plan).

csween · Dec 2, 2014

A M said:
Hi, Csween ... I do appreciate your input and great that you also have the Drolet Myriad. I know a lot more now than I did one year ago, because I've been listening and reading to others, etc., but, I have yet to feel in command of everything I'm doing from starting the initial fire to when to turn the air down.

However, I'm feeling a whole lot better than the 2nd and 3rd day with it, a few days ago, when I first posted. I bet it is a very nice stove once I've got everything together and understand the basics more through my own trial and error. I've got to work on the "wood" part, though, and still looking for handy advice on cordless chainsaws that aren't too heavy for a woman, but, no one has voiced anything on that (yet). Maybe kidding myself on cutting my own wood throughout the year, but, thought I'd at least explore the idea. If I don't, then I've got to find a reliable wood seller and then owning a wood moisture meter is an absolute must, before buying that wood. Agree? Thanks, again!

Cutii

A M said:
Hi, Csween ... I do appreciate your input and great that you also have the Drolet Myriad. I know a lot more now than I did one year ago, because I've been listening and reading to others, etc., but, I have yet to feel in command of everything I'm doing from starting the initial fire to when to turn the air down.

However, I'm feeling a whole lot better than the 2nd and 3rd day with it, a few days ago, when I first posted. I bet it is a very nice stove once I've got everything together and understand the basics more through my own trial and error. I've got to work on the "wood" part, though, and still looking for handy advice on cordless chainsaws that aren't too heavy for a woman, but, no one has voiced anything on that (yet). Maybe kidding myself on cutting my own wood throughout the year, but, thought I'd at least explore the idea. If I don't, then I've got to find a reliable wood seller and then owning a wood moisture meter is an absolute must, before buying that wood. Agree? Thanks, again!

Yes I agree, get yourself a meter regardless if you're buying wood or cutting your own, but especially if you're going to buy. I don't know much about cordless chainsaws, probably ok for cutting medium sized rounds but that's about it. One piece of advice on getting the fire going on startups is to crack the door open just a little, say 1/16" to 1/4" vs. an inch like you're doing. Don't unlatch the door completely, just raise the handle till the door opens enough to get air rushing into the stove after lighting the kindling. The flames will look like those coming out of a blowtorch once you find the sweet spot and will quickly spread the fire and bring your chimney up to temp.

A M · Dec 3, 2014

Hogwildz said:
Double wall stove pipe inside up to the ceiling support box, Triple wall class above the ceiling support box.
There is also a class A (for above the support box) double wall called Duratech. It is class A, not double wall stove pipe or DVL as Duraent calls it.
I was referring to compatibility issues with DuraPlus triple wall class A & Duratech double wall Class A. These two are not compatible as far as I know. Both are Class A, above the support box piping. You're okay with double wall stove pipe inside.

Hog and Hoozie: Thanks for your replies on the pipe. My friend installed the extra 3' onto the matching pipe. Funny that the outside of the box for that section does not state ON THE BOX that it is "HT" (high temp), but when I opened the box and looked at the white label attached to the stainless steel itself, sure enough, it shows HT. Anyway, my friend said the piece that was there matched the new piece and it really was so easy to attach. No screws, just twist it into place and it locks.

I may be repeating myself from ten postings ago but he also put up the 4' roof extension, for the pipe's support from gusty winds at times. If I remember in the next two days or so, I'll upload what the pipe looks like now. To me it does look taller, maybe a little weird with a darkened chimney cap (can't get the dark stains off), the new shiny chromish color and the older faded pipe underneath it. It might even look silly or like overkill, but it was my decision to get the 3' footer, though my friend tried to persuade otherwise. I got a brush and cleaned off the black creosote from the spark arrestor on the Duravent chimney cap. That side of the double-wide is an ugly reddish brown color and I need to finish my painting job of a nice looking yellow that the other sides were painted over the summer months.

Anyway, I do believe there is a (positive) difference, but what Hog said was right about the wood ... I will say that this ... when I get that box filled with red, hot coals, it seems it will burn any wood I have. There were some coals in it this morning, but as before not tons. There was definitely ash. It had burned all wood from yesterday down to nothing but ash.

I don't think now that I'm going to get a chainsaw. I'm gonna get a sawzall now. By Ryobi at Home Depot. I was talking about it with my friend and he says this is what he uses on his property and that the blades are pretty cheap and last a long time. Also the fact that there is no kickback with a sawzall, like a chainsaw, and using a rough cut blade, it is so fast and easy to cut branches under five inches or so.

Yes, I bet there is better draft now but I might get a half of a cord of the good hardwoods and then just "mix" the wood I have already with the good stuff whenever I build a fire, then when the questionable stuff is gone, get a new half cord or full cord from a seller with my moisture meter, when I get it.

One thing I noticed about this Myriad stove ... the manual says to keep combustibles 24" away from the sides of the stove (6" rear; it has a heat shield); well, the wooden chair with a box of matches and fire starters, etc., were on the chair. I happened to reach for one of the boxes and it felt warm. I thought 'oh, no' and immediately scooted the chair over another foot away from the metal heated side. The opposite side had a wooden wood holder and that side nearest the stove was also warm, too. Now I realize that probably nothing would happen or it may have happened by now, but I am not taking any chances or get lax about safety. It is simply not worth it if a fire did happen one day due to negligence or stupidity on my part. The OAK hasn't arrived yet, but, will love having the stove taking its air from the air outside as I think this will help with better combustion, too.

Thank you, both.

A M · Dec 3, 2014

csween said:
Cutii

Yes I agree, get yourself a meter regardless if you're buying wood or cutting your own, but especially if you're going to buy. I don't know much about cordless chainsaws, probably ok for cutting medium sized rounds but that's about it. One piece of advice on getting the fire going on startups is to crack the door open just a little, say 1/16" to 1/4" vs. an inch like you're doing. Don't unlatch the door completely, just raise the handle till the door opens enough to get air rushing into the stove after lighting the kindling. The flames will look like those coming out of a blowtorch once you find the sweet spot and will quickly spread the fire and bring your chimney up to temp.

Csween, thanks for your input. Regarding "kindling," ... I am expecting in the mail a "Super Cedar" sample. It is suppose to burn for .20 minutes and you can buy them in bulk. I need to get some kindling; have been using small scraps of left over cedar from some recent work that was done taking out storm windows and replacing them with vinyl double-pane. Anyway, I am debating whether to get a 35 lb. box of fatwood from Plow 'n Hearth or just go to my neighbor's property that's filled with tons of trees and start gathering up a bunch of "kindling" type wood. I know I have lots to learn 'cos I didn't have any extra leftover kindling this morning and tried to make some pieces of smallish wood "lite" from the remaining red coals that were there around 5:30AM, but nothing doing. It took over an hour for some burning to occur but part of the wood had burnt, but gave off no heat and acted more like the wood was dead, so to speak.

In other words, ... if that wood was really "dry," it probably would have taken off and started burning from those hot coals but it didn't. So, lesson learned. Do not bother thinking or hoping that wood that's too large to get ignited from too few hot coals. I will say this about Duraflame's "Fatwood," - I'll never buy that brand again. It is inconsistent; does not always lite or that will go out as well after a few seconds of being lite up. I won't waste my money on them again.

begreen · Dec 3, 2014

Good to hear there's progress. You're going to love SuperCedars. When you get the SuperCedar, grasp firmly in both hands and break it in half. Then break the halves in half. You will find 1/4 of a SC will start most kindling very easily.

csween · Dec 3, 2014

A M said:
Csween, thanks for your input. Regarding "kindling," ... I am expecting in the mail a "Super Cedar" sample. It is suppose to burn for .20 minutes and you can buy them in bulk. I need to get some kindling; have been using small scraps of left over cedar from some recent work that was done taking out storm windows and replacing them with vinyl double-pane. Anyway, I am debating whether to get a 35 lb. box of fatwood from Plow 'n Hearth or just go to my neighbor's property that's filled with tons of trees and start gathering up a bunch of "kindling" type wood. I know I have lots to learn 'cos I didn't have any extra leftover kindling this morning and tried to make some pieces of smallish wood "lite" from the remaining red coals that were there around 5:30AM, but nothing doing. It took over an hour for some burning to occur but part of the wood had burnt, but gave off no heat and acted more like the wood was dead, so to speak.

In other words, ... if that wood was really "dry," it probably would have taken off and started burning from those hot coals but it didn't. So, lesson learned. Do not bother thinking or hoping that wood that's too large to get ignited from too few hot coals. I will say this about Duraflame's "Fatwood," - I'll never buy that brand again. It is inconsistent; does not always lite or that will go out as well after a few seconds of being lite up. I won't waste my money on them again.

Yeah I've heard nothing but good things about those super cedars, thinking about getting some myself. I've been using newspaper with good results (rolling two pages into a tube then tying into a knot-usually three knots is all I need) but I'll try anything to make starting a fire easier. Gather that kindling up, it'll get that stove hot and make some coals. Good too for the shoulder season coming up this spring.

brenndatomu · Dec 3, 2014

WriteNoob said:
Birch, some soft maples, and poplar are also quick driers, along with the conifers.

Don't forget the gold standard, one of the only quick drying hardwoods...Ash

A M said:
just go to my neighbor's property that's filled with tons of trees and start gathering up a bunch of "kindling" type wood.

Get a few of those Super Cedars (they are as good as everybody says!) and then go to your neighbors to gather up twigs/limbs and such, that and a lil junk mail will make a fine fire! (Just a piece or two of the mail though)

Another bit of advice, get a few packs of those compressed sawdust firewood bricks (ECO bricks or whatever brand is local) you can usually get 'em at TSC, HD, Lowes and the like. Anyways, throw one or two bricks in with your regular firewood, they will help less-than-optimal firewood (not truly dry) burn hotter in your stove.

A M · Dec 4, 2014

begreen said:
Good to hear there's progress. You're going to love SuperCedars. When you get the SuperCedar, grasp firmly in both hands and break it in half. Then break the halves in half. You will find 1/4 of a SC will start most kindling very easily.

Begreen: thanks for the "tip" about the Super Cedars. Neat. You can make four out of one. I just want to tell everyone - but I don't understand why - this is the first night of burning since I got the stove that the flames have gone WILD. This is the 2nd night after the 3' pipe was installed. The best way to describe it is ... when the coals were red in the box and there was one already burning dark (walnut?) piece of wood in ... I then added about six or seven pieces of two inch hickory wood ... it doesn't make sense to me ... a few minutes later the flames wanted to go even past the secondary tubes. THAT lasted for about 5 to 10 minutes ... right now they've died down (oh, I had the air turned down a bit, not all the way open), and there are mostly blue flames coming from the middle of larger log ... and all of the coals on the floor are bright red.

The best way to describe what was happening with the smaller logs: it was as if you had poured some gasoline over them; they were that wild on fire. What a show. I've got the blower on low, instead of high, which is what I usually have it on and I do have the overhead ceiling five feet away from the stove on low, spinning counter-clock-wise (for winter).

So, just wanted to you all that. Thanks again for the tip!

A M · Dec 4, 2014

csween said:
Yeah I've heard nothing but good things about those super cedars, thinking about getting some myself. I've been using newspaper with good results (rolling two pages into a tube then tying into a knot-usually three knots is all I need) but I'll try anything to make starting a fire easier. Gather that kindling up, it'll get that stove hot and make some coals. Good too for the shoulder season coming up this spring.

Thank you, Csween ... yes, I'm looking forward to trying them. The newspaper thing sounds interesting ... I have heard or seen on youtube.com of people saving their toilet tissue cardboard rolls to use for starting a fire (is that the "tube" you refer to?), ... and even for starting "seeds" in the spring.

It is amazing what we can recycle and put to good use somewhere else, isn't it? I've even heard somewhere that using your firebox (cooled) ashes for the garden soil is a good thing, but, I know I would double-check this for accuracy before attempting it on a regular basis.

A M · Dec 4, 2014

brenndatomu said:
Don't forget the gold standard, one of the only quick drying hardwoods...Ash

Get a few of those Super Cedars (they are as good as everybody says!) and then go to your neighbors to gather up twigs/limbs and such, that and a lil junk mail will make a fine fire! (Just a piece or two of the mail though)

Another bit of advice, get a few packs of those compressed sawdust firewood bricks (ECO bricks or whatever brand is local) you can usually get 'em at TSC, HD, Lowes and the like. Anyways, throw one or two bricks in with your regular firewood, they will help less-than-optimal firewood (not truly dry) burn hotter in your stove.

Everyone is vouching for the Super Cedars; they truly must be totally efficient. Oh, no, I didn't know that "Ash" is one of the quicker drying hardwoods. Had no idea 'bout that. I did not even know that you CAN mix the Eco-bricks with the real firewood. This is news to me. Thank you guys and here's to happy heating.

P. S. Just got my electric bill from 10/17 to 11/17/14: $70.00 (prior to my new stove purchase). From 9/17 to 10/16, the bill was only $40.00 (it's a cooperate; they round off to the nearest dollar and then with the extra cents you chime in (x2,000 monthly customers), they contribute to helping out less fortunate people down the road).

Soooooo, if I can get my "wood thing" together, I am hoping my bill will be less than $70.00, but I may be being too optimistic, as the real Winter will be officially here 11/18 through 12/18/14.

weatherguy · Dec 4, 2014

Sounds like that 3 foot section worked and the smaller splits were dry, if all your wood was dry it would likely take off like that and you would get some seriors heat.

SteveKG · Dec 4, 2014

I am sure your friend is doing a good deed by trying to help. And this is in no way meant to denigrate his efforts, but having two hundred years of experience with a fireplace does not necessarily mean being knowledgeable about stoves. Different animals, other than oxidizing wood and creating smoke and draft. As others have already said, that chimney is just plain too short. That may not be the biggest problem here, I don't know and not being there to fool with the stove, I certainly cannot say. But if I were another of your friends and trying to help, that is the very first thing I'd change [add pipe]. As far as the dryness of your firewood supply, until you have some experience you probably need a moisture meter. After a while, most people don't need one any more. But the wimpy burning, lack of heat, grunged-up glass all hint at substandard wood in the dryness department. If you don't feel comfortable with a chainsaw, stay far away. Purchasing firewood is less expensive than emergency medical treatment.

If your funds allow, regardless what you ultimately determine is the cause [or causes] of your trouble, begin to obtain and properly store firewood for future years. All of this is a real task when starting out from scratch. But get going now, and in a couple of years, you'll have great wood and be roasting near that stove. Wood burning requires management: of the stove, of the burning process, and of the fuel supply. The only way you can consistently manage the wood supply is to work toward getting ahead, storing it yourself and using it when it is properly dried [seasoned, some call it].

And keep trying on the stove. Every model is a different animal. I have been using wood stoves exclusively for heating my homes since 1974. Last fall, I began using a brand-new stove and my first catalytic. It took me a couple of weeks to really get a handle on how to use it.

begreen · Dec 4, 2014

Seems like every year we are burning a different species of tree or different cuts and different aging. And therefore every year's burning is different. You need to be flexible and accept November as the learning month and Dec./Jan as the burning months. Feb/Mar often go back to less cold, but by then the wood is drier so they become the easy months.

A M · Dec 4, 2014

weatherguy said:
Sounds like that 3 foot section worked and the smaller splits were dry, if all your wood was dry it would likely take off like that and you would get some seriors heat.

Yes, I am getting it that the key here is the DRY wood ... and I am becoming more convinced of this everyday, through the art of building up the heat in the box in a slow and steady manner. So good to have that 3' extension up ... tonight the stove has been very, very good. I am certainly not stating that the high flames were there to enjoy for hours. Nope. ... but, the flames are so beautiful. I am so enjoying having this stove. Whomever invented the secondary burn/tubes really used his or her brains. Yes, a normal wood stove has its charm but when you see firsthand how it is capable of more (visually as well as heating through achieving more radiant warmth); its really something ... if the EPA wants lower emissions flying around the heavenly atmosphere (is that poetic or what?) ... then they should invest in 30 second spots on the telly ... simply showing the difference between a 1980s stove and one made within the last five years.

There's a older but very effective short clip on youtube that compares a newer and older model of wood stoves. And, it was made by the Canadian version of the our EPA, but it really is effective.

What I am looking forward to ... is when I have primarily hardwood that is well-seasoned ... and I will go outside to look at my chimney ... and not see any or very, very little white smoke. That, I am looking ahead to.

A M · Dec 4, 2014

begreen said:
Seems like every year we are burning a different species of tree or different cuts and different aging. And therefore every year's burning is different. You need to be flexible and accept November as the learning month and Dec./Jan as the burning months. Feb/Mar often go back to less cold, but by then the wood is drier so they become the easy months.

I never thought of it like that and it is noteworthy ... thanks.

A M · Dec 4, 2014

SteveKG said:
I am sure your friend is doing a good deed by trying to help. And this is in no way meant to denigrate his efforts, but having two hundred years of experience with a fireplace does not necessarily mean being knowledgeable about stoves. Different animals, other than oxidizing wood and creating smoke and draft. As others have already said, that chimney is just plain too short. That may not be the biggest problem here, I don't know and not being there to fool with the stove, I certainly cannot say. But if I were another of your friends and trying to help, that is the very first thing I'd change [add pipe]. As far as the dryness of your firewood supply, until you have some experience you probably need a moisture meter. After a while, most people don't need one any more. But the wimpy burning, lack of heat, grunged-up glass all hint at substandard wood in the dryness department. If you don't feel comfortable with a chainsaw, stay far away. Purchasing firewood is less expensive than emergency medical treatment.

If your funds allow, regardless what you ultimately determine is the cause [or causes] of your trouble, begin to obtain and properly store firewood for future years. All of this is a real task when starting out from scratch. But get going now, and in a couple of years, you'll have great wood and be roasting near that stove. Wood burning requires management: of the stove, of the burning process, and of the fuel supply. The only way you can consistently manage the wood supply is to work toward getting ahead, storing it yourself and using it when it is properly dried [seasoned, some call it].

And keep trying on the stove. Every model is a different animal. I have been using wood stoves exclusively for heating my homes since 1974. Last fall, I began using a brand-new stove and my first catalytic. It took me a couple of weeks to really get a handle on how to use it.

SteveKG ... oh, I laughed at what you said about my friend having 200 years of fireplace experience. So funny the way you put it, but, I think there is certainly some truth there, as well. Yes, they are two different animals. Yes, I am going to get a moisture meter; just haven't ordered it yet on-line. I am in agreement with you regarding the wimped burning, lack of heat, dirty glass, etc., as it does point to the darn wood I've got. Although my friend thinks all of the wood I have has been seasoned plenty ... I must balance my respect for my friend who does indeed know how to build a hot fire initially and does have "fireplace" experience, but clearly does and has not familiarized himself with the modern stoves. I do not think that he may even believe that these newer stoves suck up the smoke inside the box and burn that and then allows the remains to travel up and out of the chimney.

Chainsaw: I do not think now that I will be getting that. I will I think - for now - use a sawzall to cut wood. If I do not like how it cuts, then I start my chainsaw search once again.

Incredible ... you've been burning wood since 1974? You got your first cat stove (mine is a non-cat) during 2013? Yes, I've heard they have a learning curve, too.

I like all that you said in paragraph 2, about the cycle of wood ... "work toward getting ahead, storing it, and using it when it is properly dried." Very true. It seems to be an on-going process through the year, not merely during the Winter months, if you really take charge and do it full cycle ... instead of simply going to a woods person and buying it off of them.

Anyway, Steve, I enjoyed reading what you had to say. I hope you are enjoying your relatively new stove, too. Thank you for writing.

brenndatomu · Dec 4, 2014

A M said:
I then added about six or seven pieces of two inch hickory wood ... it doesn't make sense to me ... a few minutes later the flames wanted to go even past the secondary tubes. THAT lasted for about 5 to 10 minutes ... right now they've died down (oh, I had the air turned down a bit, not all the way open), and there are mostly blue flames coming from the middle of larger log ... and all of the coals on the floor are bright red.

Now it is just a matter of time and experience that you will learn how to balance the ratio of small splits to large splits, wood species, and size of the loads to maintain the temp that you prefer in the house. Hang around here, that will shorten your learning curve quite a bit!
Also, if you have a roaring fire going with smaller splits like you describe above, you can probably turn the air down sooner, and likely you can shut it down all the way or at least very near all the way. The secondary burn will last longer and less heat will be lost up the chimney, and if your wood is dry and the stove is "up to temp", most times the stove temp will go way up when you do this.

A M said:
Chainsaw: I do not think now that I will be getting that. I will I think - for now - use a sawzall to cut wood. If I do not like how it cuts, then I start my chainsaw search once again.

Maybe you could start out with one of these electric jawsaws at first, at least for the smaller stuff. I scored one on fleabay for $50 a while back, it works great on limb wood. Mine came with the pole to use it as a pole saw too. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...5IKoAQ&usg=AFQjCNECEC1s268WES7p566n8A3PQn9N5A

A M · Dec 4, 2014

brenndatomu said:
Now it is just a matter of time and experience that you will learn how to balance the ratio of small splits to large splits, wood species, and size of the loads to maintain the temp that you prefer in the house. Hang around here, that will shorten your learning curve quite a bit!
Also, if you have a roaring fire going with smaller splits like you describe above, you can probably turn the air down sooner, and likely you can shut it down all the way or at least very near all the way. The secondary burn will last longer and less heat will be lost up the chimney, and if your wood is dry and the stove is "up to temp", most times the stove temp will go way up when you do this.

Maybe you could start out with one of these electric jawsaws at first, at least for the smaller stuff. I scored one on fleabay for $50 a while back, it works great on limb wood. Mine came with the pole to use it as a pole saw too. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CDEQFjAA&url=https://www.worx.com/en-US/WORX-JawSaw-WG307.aspx&ei=1CGBVNSJNs7loAST5IKoAQ&usg=AFQjCNECEC1s268WES7p566n8A3PQn9N5A

Brenndatomu, thanks for your input. Yes, this website is an excellent source for reading, asking, and even confirming information ... which, can be vitally important ... if you are hearing or understanding from other sources something that you need an accurate answer on, you can simply throw it out there and see what is returned. Smaller splits ... turn the air down sooner ... secondary burn will last longer.

I have looked at worx.com and almost got the JAWZ. I decided not to get it because I believe the diameter's maximum for cutting is only three inches. I know it is extremely safe, as I've read reviews by older people who used it and love it, but I felt I needed something more broad. Nonetheless, I thank you for sending these pics of it, just in case I wasn't familiar with the Worx tools.

Now, $50.00 is a very good buy on this, especially with the pole. I have the Worx trimmer (2 in 1), that I purchased about 3 years ago. Thanks again for posting the info!

A M · Dec 4, 2014

A M · Dec 4, 2014

Everyone, here is a pic of the extended chimney pipe. Just wanted you to see it. I am confident that with the brackets securely holding it; well, I think it would withstand 60 miles an hour winds should it ever happen. Besides, as I mentioned before, these brackets were/are brand-new and just going to waste in their original packaging, as I went overboard last year when I ordered the DVL pipe, and thought that I would need them. Anyway, I'm glad they did not sell on Craigslist when I tried to sell them (due to the return shipping expense AND the 20% re-stocking fee), last year and now they are being used on my roof, ... so, I did need them ... just didn't know at the time that it would be one year LATER.

BrotherBart · Dec 4, 2014

Looks good. Look at it this way, they probably cost more this year.

Where's the heat, Myriad?

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