Advice / Review need: Regency CI2600 fireplace insert risky & costly?

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Sometimes if the stove is hot i've noticed the bypass door is stiffer.

I've been wondering if partially closing the bypass when initially heating the stove would cause it to warm up quicker, but i was not sure if there is any sort of seal material on the edge of the bypass damper that would be damaged by the partially opened position.

The bypass and the gasket will be ok but you may kill your catalyst early when you force the smoke through it without heating it up first.
 
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With the plate I think the burn times have improved.
I typically get a good fire going with a few splits then add as much wood as I can fit. Get that burning really good till about 6-700F then close the cat. wait about 30sec then slide the primary all the way down.
One of the things I am noticing is that in order to really pack the stove you have to have much smaller splits than what the manufacturer states it can take. The stove will accept a 20" log but not many of them. I think 16 is ideal. I was home tonight so I could tend to the stove and it is cranking out serious heat. The wood burned down and I just added fresh splits. We shall see at 5:30 how it looks.

Try closing the primary air earlier. Maybe about half even when the cat is not in the active zone. That could potentially heat up the stove faster when you have a lot of draft so you can engage the cat earlier and keep more even temps. Plus, you did not burn through a lot of wood to get the cat up to temp.
 
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Try closing the primary air earlier. Maybe about half even when the cat is not in the active zone. That could potentially heat up the stove faster when you have a lot of draft so you can engage the cat earlier and keep more even temps. Plus, you did not burn through a lot of wood to get the cat up to temp.

I'm going to try this also. I've been packing with wood under 20% moisture on top of hot coals, and it's burning nicely, with red-hot coals still there in the morning. I often forget that there's more to the primary damper besides WIDE OPEN and TOTALLY CLOSED though :)
 

This was this morning Slow burn with the screws and washer in. Grisu what do you think? I had my cousin order a reduction plate. Would you use it if you compare the two videos?
 
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Here's our burn last night. Wood was all under 20% MC, and stove was packed EW to within an inch of the glass. This is about 90 minutes into the burn, with cat glowing and both dampers closed down.

It seemed a little fast and yellow for my liking, but this morning there were still nice red-hot coals that, after raking them forward, lit up some dry wood in a flash.

 
Wolves, that looks good to me. How long after loading was that? You could maybe try putting in some more wood. Are you ok with the heat output? Does the cat stay hot enough through the burn?

Edge-of-the-wood, pretty good, too. I would expect more flames from the top than coming from the wood itself but you are pretty close.
 
Wolves, that looks good to me. How long after loading was that? You could maybe try putting in some more wood. Are you ok with the heat output? Does the cat stay hot enough through the burn?

Edge-of-the-wood, pretty good, too. I would expect more flames from the top than coming from the wood itself but you are pretty close.
About 45 min into the burn, I put only 5 pieces because it's not that cold when temps drop I can but about 7-9. I loaded the stove at 8 it is now 4:20 the cat reads cool but the fan is still blowing warm air (not on auto) and there is still coals in the stove. What do you think try the reduction plate when it comes in?
 
About 45 min into the burn, I put only 5 pieces because it's not that cold when temps drop I can but about 7-9. I loaded the stove at 8 it is now 4:20 the cat reads cool but the fan is still blowing warm air (not on auto) and there is still coals in the stove. What do you think try the reduction plate when it comes in?

It looks like you have dialed it in pretty well right now. I would just keep it off and see how the insert does over the coming weeks. Once the cat has also settled in you may find that you don't need it.
 
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It looks like you have dialed it in pretty well right now. I would just keep it off and see how the insert does over the coming weeks. Once the cat has also settled in you may find that you don't need it.
That burn was with two screws and washer to slow down the air. That was JRDs picture.
 
I am still banging my head against the wall here. My dealer called and stated that he would have the Regency tech call me directly. I am waiting on that call.
Yesterday was a 18hr day for me at work. My wife wanted nothing to do with the stove seeing as how she taught school all day, had a staff meeting and then had to pick up the kids and deal with them. Can't fault her for that.
I had a decent fire going before I left @6:00am. 12:30 this am I looked at the stove and stirred up the still massive ash and coal pile. Oh look. hot coals. Put a log on and left the door cracked, 5 mins later it's burning. Loaded it up with wood, temp up to 700F and closed the cat. As suggested by others here as well as my dealer I closed the damper and then opened it slightly, @1/4". I went to bed and slept a whopping 5hrs. When I came downstairs it felt warmer, but that was because the heat was on. The fire was out. No heat, no fan. 5hrs.
I had put the wood in n/s for the first layer and then e/w for the second and jammed a few more in where I could fit.
I really don't understand what is going on here with the crap burn times and this ridiculous coal bed.
I am willing to bet that the fire I had going in the morning yesterday went out and the fan stopped at probably 1 or 2pm. The fact that there were hot coals almost 12hrs later is bizarre to me. I could literally let the stove go "out" and two days later get another fire going. But there is still zero heat coming from this unit at the point of when the fire stops actually flaming and the coal bed locks down and begins to insulate itself.
I guess If I didn't work and could just stir up the coals every 6hrs or so then this would be a great heater. This just isn't realistic.
I hope I get a call from Regency soon.
 
I am still banging my head against the wall here. My dealer called and stated that he would have the Regency tech call me directly. I am waiting on that call.
Yesterday was a 18hr day for me at work. My wife wanted nothing to do with the stove seeing as how she taught school all day, had a staff meeting and then had to pick up the kids and deal with them. Can't fault her for that.
I had a decent fire going before I left @6:00am. 12:30 this am I looked at the stove and stirred up the still massive ash and coal pile. Oh look. hot coals. Put a log on and left the door cracked, 5 mins later it's burning. Loaded it up with wood, temp up to 700F and closed the cat. As suggested by others here as well as my dealer I closed the damper and then opened it slightly, @1/4". I went to bed and slept a whopping 5hrs. When I came downstairs it felt warmer, but that was because the heat was on. The fire was out. No heat, no fan. 5hrs.
I had put the wood in n/s for the first layer and then e/w for the second and jammed a few more in where I could fit.
I really don't understand what is going on here with the crap burn times and this ridiculous coal bed.
I am willing to bet that the fire I had going in the morning yesterday went out and the fan stopped at probably 1 or 2pm. The fact that there were hot coals almost 12hrs later is bizarre to me. I could literally let the stove go "out" and two days later get another fire going. But there is still zero heat coming from this unit at the point of when the fire stops actually flaming and the coal bed locks down and begins to insulate itself.
I guess If I didn't work and could just stir up the coals every 6hrs or so then this would be a great heater. This just isn't realistic.
I hope I get a call from Regency soon.

How deep was the coal bed when you loaded it up again before bed?

When you woke up and say the fire was out, do you mean that the logs smoldered out and stopped burning, or that it all burned down to ash & coals in that 5 hours?

Who's your dealer in CT?
 
I am still banging my head against the wall here. My dealer called and stated that he would have the Regency tech call me directly. I am waiting on that call.
Yesterday was a 18hr day for me at work. My wife wanted nothing to do with the stove seeing as how she taught school all day, had a staff meeting and then had to pick up the kids and deal with them. Can't fault her for that.
I had a decent fire going before I left @6:00am. 12:30 this am I looked at the stove and stirred up the still massive ash and coal pile. Oh look. hot coals. Put a log on and left the door cracked, 5 mins later it's burning. Loaded it up with wood, temp up to 700F and closed the cat. As suggested by others here as well as my dealer I closed the damper and then opened it slightly, @1/4". I went to bed and slept a whopping 5hrs. When I came downstairs it felt warmer, but that was because the heat was on. The fire was out. No heat, no fan. 5hrs.
I had put the wood in n/s for the first layer and then e/w for the second and jammed a few more in where I could fit.
I really don't understand what is going on here with the crap burn times and this ridiculous coal bed.
I am willing to bet that the fire I had going in the morning yesterday went out and the fan stopped at probably 1 or 2pm. The fact that there were hot coals almost 12hrs later is bizarre to me. I could literally let the stove go "out" and two days later get another fire going. But there is still zero heat coming from this unit at the point of when the fire stops actually flaming and the coal bed locks down and begins to insulate itself.
I guess If I didn't work and could just stir up the coals every 6hrs or so then this would be a great heater. This just isn't realistic.
I hope I get a call from Regency soon.

Did you have that large coal bed also before you put the reducer plate in? Would you be open to buy a few bundles of Bio-bricks or similar and try those? I know you tested the wood with a moisture meter but I would like to know how the inserts burns with a load of really dry stuff.
 
How deep was the coal bed when you loaded it up again before bed?

When you woke up and say the fire was out, do you mean that the logs smoldered out and stopped burning, or that it all burned down to ash & coals in that 5 hours?

Who's your dealer in CT?
The coal bed is consistently level with the door sill.
Ash and coals.
Dealer is Trading Post. They have been as helpful as possible. Now it's up to Regency.
Did you have that large coal bed also before you put the reducer plate in? Would you be open to buy a few bundles of Bio-bricks or similar and try those? I know you tested the wood with a moisture meter but I would like to know how the inserts burns with a load of really dry stuff.
I honestly don't recall if the coal bed was as thick but I do remember having to shovel out excess prior to the rep checking out the stove.
I'm not adverse to trying out the bio bricks. I will pick some up and see what the results are.
 
I'm very curious to what your Bio Brick experience is like. They burn alright for me, but they themselves sometimes leave some BIG old coals behind. If you want some nearby check out Bethany Supply, I just got some from the guy last week or so. He's got some Bio Bricks left and more coming in, plus Eco Bricks and something called Acorn Bricks that are supposed to be 100% oak.

http://www.bethanysupply.com/

The BB were $7.25 for a good-sized pack of them, enough for you to try for a few fires.
 
i'm just curious, is anyone else digging a trench down the middle to let the air get to the back of the stove? reading the instructions it says to do that, so i'm curious how many do
 
I picked up this stove yesterday.
My only concern with this stove, or any for that matter, will be its ability to heat the whole house. Stove is on the north end of the house in the existing fireplace in a room which is 13x24. There is only one doorway in and out so getting the heat out will be a challenge. I plan on installing the stove in the coming days.

Take it back. Don't spend $5000 on an insert that won't move the heat to where you want it! Ask you dealer to sell you an RSF instead. For example, an Opel where duct work and central heating blowers are accessories. The RSF Focus has that huge viewing window for style, high output and can have heat ducted to other rooms including that unheated 800 sq ft in your basement. Made by Industrial Chimney Company.
 
On a side note, in regards to ash cleanout, how are you guys accomplishing this?
I ask b/c I loaded the stove at 1:00am and didn't touch it until I returned home tonight @6:00pm. The stove was out of course at 6:00am, but I digress..
Tonight I had a significant bed of ash and when stirred it got super hot. This is common for me. No heat of course, but I digress..
I scooped out about 2 shovels of very hot ash and no matter how delicately I placed it into the bucket it sent copious amounts of ash dust into the air and all over the room. How would you even clean out ash during a very busy winter season? Let the stove go out for days on end? I just don't comprehend this.
I know that ash is important for stove performance and it does pack down, but it has to be cleaned out occasionally no?
 
I'm about to pull the trigger to order the Regency CI2600 because of the sleek, modern look and hybrid design. Our local stove company, whose advice comes highly recommended, advises against it, saying the catalytic converter is problematic and costly to replace every 3 to 5 yrs. I was quoted over $600 ( by a Regency dealer) for this particular unit's catalytic replacement. Our local stove company also claims that catalytic stoves/ inserts are on their way out. Also, from some of my research reading, Regency seems like a company that will not stand by you when the unit develops problems. Since the Regency CI2600 is so new to the market, I can hardly find any reviews over the internet. I feel like I am back to square one. I am thinking either I wait until next year so that some users can share their experience or just risk it and be the guinea pig and learn the hard lesson (this unit will run me over 5K, unit plus materials and installation). Any opinion is welcomed. Thank you so much for your time.


The Regency is a Hybrid designed more to meet expected new 2015 EPA standards (only 1.8gph) than to create long burns like the Blaze King Princess insert. The idea with catalytic combustion is the ability to create long slow burns, so the output is not a lot, but the stove does not need constant feeding. Burning a cat stove hot and hard will wear the combustor prematurely, so guys who need lots of output curse the cat.

So, if you want high heat outputs, get a traditional secondary burn system.

The other problem with considering the Blaze King, as some here have suggested, is its traditional look. Folks want something more stylish these days (like the CI2600), esp if you let the woman in on the decision making.

IMHO, if you are spending $5000 on a stove, you do not want to deal with the kind of poor service that some here have received from Regency dealers.
 
New to this forum but I've been following for a while. I recently purchased 2 CI2600 Inserts. They were installed by the dealer I got them from and needless to say I was not happy. Both inserts fell way short of the specs put forward by Regency and put to me from my vender. Many of the same problems that I've read on this forum I've witnessed first hand. In my case it is looking more like a poor installation job. Three guys showed up with the stoves, I'll call them Ed, Edd and Eddy. They immediately unboxed and brought the inserts into the house. Next, they put in the liners, one to the basement and one to the first floor, (house is two story brick with masonry chimney). Then it got strange. They put the basement stove in place and connected the liner. Then they couldn't get it connected so they put on some aftermarket adapter that I told them I didn't want. Ed put it on anyway. After some arguing between Ed and Edd, they split up and one started on the first floor while the other continued messing up the basement. After all was said and done, they left me with the two inserts installed and no confidence in the job done. Big bucks to be screwed without a kiss. After they left I looked things over, (what I could see) and built a small fire in each to cure the paint. Stinky, but expected. After several small burns with the air wide open I decided to try these things out. Wow! Insane draft and eats wood faster than a wood chipper. I tried shutting down the air but nothing slowed down the draft. My basement unit's bypass rod was completely frozen and the upstairs unit was incredibly hot. I called the installers and after several cancellations finally came back. Edd and Eddy that is. I had them remove the offset adapter and install the liner directly into the collar like it should be. The upper shield was not on the pins and had wedged in the bypass plate so it wouldn't move. The fork was put in backwards. After this was done which I had to direct every step, I bid them goodbye knowing that I still had problems on my upstairs unit. Basement stove is working good from what I've seen so far. Fired last night about 9 and still had heat blowing at 8 this am. I didn't have confidence in them doing the other stove so I did that today myself. Had to take the cat out to check on the bypass insallation which is no easy task because of minimum clearances but got it done. Once again the fork was backwards. I wish there were some better info on how the whole bypass works. I don't know how reversing the fork changes the bypass operation but it certainly reduced the draft and now the airflow change is noticeable when I adjust the primary air lever. Bottom line is that if you get this insert, it is not plug and play like a normal stove. Unless you have installers that read and follow the instructions or you do it yourself, make sure all the steps are followed and you don't fork it up (The "F" goes toward the front!) Hope this saves someone some grief. I'll let you know how things go from here. Good luck Johnny. You may want to check your fork.
 
I'll call them Ed, Edd and Eddy.

I am thinking Larry, Curley and Moe.

Welcome to the forum, thanks for the heads ups and glad you got the heaters straightened out.
 
New to this forum but I've been following for a while. I recently purchased 2 CI2600 Inserts. They were installed by the dealer I got them from and needless to say I was not happy. Both inserts fell way short of the specs put forward by Regency and put to me from my vender. Many of the same problems that I've read on this forum I've witnessed first hand. In my case it is looking more like a poor installation job. Three guys showed up with the stoves, I'll call them Ed, Edd and Eddy. They immediately unboxed and brought the inserts into the house. Next, they put in the liners, one to the basement and one to the first floor, (house is two story brick with masonry chimney). Then it got strange. They put the basement stove in place and connected the liner. Then they couldn't get it connected so they put on some aftermarket adapter that I told them I didn't want. Ed put it on anyway. After some arguing between Ed and Edd, they split up and one started on the first floor while the other continued messing up the basement. After all was said and done, they left me with the two inserts installed and no confidence in the job done. Big bucks to be screwed without a kiss. After they left I looked things over, (what I could see) and built a small fire in each to cure the paint. Stinky, but expected. After several small burns with the air wide open I decided to try these things out. Wow! Insane draft and eats wood faster than a wood chipper. I tried shutting down the air but nothing slowed down the draft. My basement unit's bypass rod was completely frozen and the upstairs unit was incredibly hot. I called the installers and after several cancellations finally came back. Edd and Eddy that is. I had them remove the offset adapter and install the liner directly into the collar like it should be. The upper shield was not on the pins and had wedged in the bypass plate so it wouldn't move. The fork was put in backwards. After this was done which I had to direct every step, I bid them goodbye knowing that I still had problems on my upstairs unit. Basement stove is working good from what I've seen so far. Fired last night about 9 and still had heat blowing at 8 this am. I didn't have confidence in them doing the other stove so I did that today myself. Had to take the cat out to check on the bypass insallation which is no easy task because of minimum clearances but got it done. Once again the fork was backwards. I wish there were some better info on how the whole bypass works. I don't know how reversing the fork changes the bypass operation but it certainly reduced the draft and now the airflow change is noticeable when I adjust the primary air lever. Bottom line is that if you get this insert, it is not plug and play like a normal stove. Unless you have installers that read and follow the instructions or you do it yourself, make sure all the steps are followed and you don't fork it up (The "F" goes toward the front!) Hope this saves someone some grief. I'll let you know how things go from here. Good luck Johnny. You may want to check your fork.
That's what I been saying I think there is something wrong with the bypass it's not installed correctly.
 
On a side note, in regards to ash cleanout, how are you guys accomplishing this?
I ask b/c I loaded the stove at 1:00am and didn't touch it until I returned home tonight @6:00pm. The stove was out of course at 6:00am, but I digress..
Tonight I had a significant bed of ash and when stirred it got super hot. This is common for me. No heat of course, but I digress..
I scooped out about 2 shovels of very hot ash and no matter how delicately I placed it into the bucket it sent copious amounts of ash dust into the air and all over the room. How would you even clean out ash during a very busy winter season? Let the stove go out for days on end? I just don't comprehend this.
I know that ash is important for stove performance and it does pack down, but it has to be cleaned out occasionally no?
Jonny can you try something, let the fire finish, when the stove is cool take a mirror look at the back top of the stove from the inside. Open and close the bypass and see if the bypass plate closes fully. There are two plates the first with two big holes that stays closed all the time you manually slide that open when you clean your flue. The second on top and that slides close and completely closes the flue so the smoke has to pass the cat. I think your bypass does not close fully.
 
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