Magnum Baby CountrySide - Super Auger Pimp up with Pics! What a top auger needs sooner or later!

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Don2222

Minister of Fire
Feb 1, 2010
9,110
Salem NH
Hello

Fines inside the bottom stove means the bottom auger bearing is gone and it is time to Pimp Your Auger! ! !
These fines can be picked up by the room blower and sent thru the hot stove. This results in hot embers spewing out the front and can be dangerous!
I have seen this on many different brands of top feed auger stoves. These stoves have Bronze, Nylon, Delron and Nylatron bearings so no brand of top auger stove is immune to this! Nylatron seems to last the longest!

The top auger bearing was shot and there were no signs of the bottom Delron bearing!

So this baby needed a new lease on life! Since some Auger Pox was also found and ground down, it will be better than new!

Pulling out the wall plug and removing the room blower is only the start of this big operation!
After disconnecting the wires, the set screw came out easily!
Did the auger motor slide out of the auger shaft easily, HECK NO !! @*(##^^@)@*^@*#@!!!

It took 1 hour of tapping banging, dousing with PB blaster and finally sticking in a block of wood for more leverage with the rubber hammer and mini pry bar, a few more powerful bangs and the motor came off!
The motor shaft bent from all this banging and had to be junked! Looked old from the overspray even though it was about 6 or 7 years old.

The old silicone had to be cut and pealed off around the auger end plate and the stop bolt and other bolt were removed. The auger shaft came out fairly easy by twisting and turning it so it did not hit the inside back of the stove. The old top bearing fell down the auger flight chute right into the burn pot!

The dirty auger was cleaned with a wire wheel on the drill driver and the sharp pimples from the splattered slag from the original fin welding was ground down with the grinding stones on the drill driver.

While the auger was out the hopper sprayed with Slip Plate to make it look so much better.

The auger was then cleaned with Acetone and sprayed with dry moly for a super slick pimp up!
Then the new top brass bearing and Delron bottom bearing were slipped on and put all back. High temp clear silicone was added to the end plate and it was bolted back into place. The auger turned by hand like a knife thru butter!

To give those pellets a good ride, a brand new higher torque, top quality Gleason Avery 2 RPM auger motor was installed. The rotation must be reversed for the Baby!

This stove was also previously upgraded to the higher current large petal exhaust blower and wood pellet fire pot!

The stove is noticebly quieter and with good maintenance, should burn for quite a few years longer now!

Pic 0 - Sawdust or Fines inside the bottom of the stove! This happens to all top feeds sooner or later!
Pic 1 & 2 - OEM Auger motor
Pic 3 - No signs of an auger bearing in the bottom of this hopper!
Pic 4 - Bent shaft on old auger motor!
Pic 5 - Very dirty and warn top auger bearing!
Pic 6 - Brand new auger bearing set
Pic 7 - Very dirty auger shaft!
Pic 8 - Auger pox ! ! !
Pic 9 - Auger cleaned with a wire wheel and sprayed with dry moly!

Click pics to Enlarge:
 

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More pics

Pic 10 - Auger with new bearing set
Pic 11 - New Delron bearing inside the bottom of the hopper
Pic 12 - Worn hopper
Pic 13 - Hopper sprayed with slip plate
Pic 14 - New Gleason Avery 2 RPM ball bearing auger motor
Pic 15 - Magnum Baby Countryside with fire
Pic 16 - Wood Pellet Fire Pot

Click pics to Enlarge:
 

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Wow, cool Don. Looks nice. So you can get the auger out without removing the back panel? I was wondering about this. I want to check my auger because I seem to have slightly inconsistent pellet dispensing. One comes out, then three, then like ten. Runs well anyway but figured I'd check.
 
Wow, cool Don. Looks nice. So you can get the auger out without removing the back panel? I was wondering about this. I want to check my auger because I seem to have slightly inconsistent pellet dispensing. One comes out, then three, then like ten. Runs well anyway but figured I'd check.

Good question!
Sometimes I have to remove the bottom bolts on the back panel and bend it out some, on the one above I did not have to do that.
 
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Was the auger stop bolt sheared off? Worst design I have ever seen. Fun taking the entire end of that stove apart isn't it?

Auger stop bolt was fine, I have seem much worse designs than this. There is a new stop bracket I installed on one stove that works very well.

Interesting that I had the exact same problem banging off an auger motor on an older Enviro EF-2i. Also replaced a bronze bearing on a 10 yo Enviro Empress Insert that had a big pile of fines inside the back. The bearing was stuck to the auger and they both turned inside the end plate hole!

Taking top feed augers out is a very needed part of our service and makes it more fun. :)
 
That enthusiasm you call "fun" wears off around service call 13,000. I had a bunch of plastic replacement bushings for Enviros I got from Ingus, they really work much better that the bronze ones.

Do you have a link to the bearing?
http://www.igus.com/

Do you have more fun in the store now and only service and install what you sell?
 
No. My best days are when I get to go out and install or service and be done by 1pm. That rarely happens. A close second is puttering around the shop refurbishing some rusty old relic at my own speed. Lately my days start at 4:30 am and I roll in to home about 8:30 pm, completely worn out from answering 150,000 questions
 
I have 3 stoves to rebuild including a Harman Advance. Got all the parts to rebuild them but no time.

I also upgraded a Lennox Profile 30 with a high current open frame exhaust blower with a double paddle impeller blade, a heavy duty metal vacuum switch and did an optical eye bypass. Stove not only runs now but much better with no optical lens cleaning anymore!
 
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I have 3 stoves to rebuild including a Harman Advance. Got all the parts to rebuild them but no time. I have two helpers but you must have more than that?

I also upgraded a Lennox Profile 30 with a high current open frame exhaust blower with a double paddle impeller blade, a heavy duty metal vacuum switch and did an optical eye bypass. Stove not only runs now but much better with no optical lens cleaning anymore!
Careful on the eye bypass, thermostat use won't work if the area has rapid heat loss. Or get a tstat with CPH set to 1
 
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