Storing (not using) saws for extended periods

I think you are right. I don't run dry, but add seafoam to my small gas containers for every small engine. Since doing that, I've had no carb problems come spring.

The only gas equipment that I run dry for the winter is my mower and generator. I treat all of my gas w/ the blue marine stabilizer which also treats ethanol and I throw a splash of sea foam in my gas cans also. So far my method is working. A while back I was using untreated gas off of my father in laws farm and soon after had to rebuild the carb on my atv and weedeater. I learned my lesson the hard way.

Run all of the gas out of it! It is very easy to do. With your grass trimmer, chainsaw, etc., start them first and then drain the gas....restart and then wait for it to run out of gas (a few seconds to a few minutes). Gas can start to varnish and gum up the carburetor in a few months sitting. You can add a ethanol additive and stabilizer but why spend the extra money when it is very easy to run the gas out of the equipment (and you also don't have to worry about it being a problem).

I use marine Stabil in everything and some stuff I run dry and other items I have no problem leaving fuel in. The past few years I've been running everything dry but it seems like I have no issue storing things over the winter. The things I store over the summer however, I've has issues with. Both my snowblower and snowmobile I've had problems with gummed up carbs if I don't run them dry. More moisture in the air during the summer months must degrade the gas quicker.

I am not a proponent of running small engines dry before storage. The biggest problem with untreated ethanol is that it draws in moisture. The last thing you run through the carb is untreated ethanol, along with an empty tank that had untreated ethanol in it. If the tank is steel, you are drawing in moisture regardless of ethanol gas or not.

Seafoam has been the best ethanol stabilizer that I have found. I mix it with all 2 & 4 stroke engines, even use it in the diesels. If it has a steel tank, it is best to keep it full to the top so no air is in it.

I've got a 1950 Johnson 25 hp outboard motor. I've always drained the gas after every time I've had it out. Never had the first carburetor problem. I do use Seafoam (incredible product) but I still run my equipment dry for long-term storage including my MGB Roadster.

I burn non ethanol premium with a splash of Seafoam as my everyday fuel for all my tools that use gasoline for fuel. Come winter time when I put the tools to bed for the winter I drain all the old fuel out and fill to the top with fresh premium fuel with Seafoam and Stabil, start them up to get the mix into the carbs and store them. I never leave them empty of fuel as I believe there is more risk of dry gaskets and dry seals than gummed up parts.
I have to add in 35 years I've never had to rebuild or replace a carb on any tool I've owned, fuel lines are a different story.

Unfortunately, there's no convenient non-ethanol gasoline where I am, so I run a little canned fuel like Stihl MotoMix or TruFuel through my trough my machines that take a 2-cycle fuel.

FWIW, Stihl recommends to let the engine run dry even if you don't use their canned fuel. Here's the video (relevant info around 4:22):

TreePointer said:

Unfortunately, there's no convenient non-ethanol gasoline where I am, so I run a little canned fuel like Stihl MotoMix or TruFuel through my trough my machines that take a 2-cycle fuel.

FWIW, Stihl recommends to let the engine run dry even if you don't use their canned fuel. Here's the video (relevant info around 4:22):

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I stick with what Stihl says

The two schools of thought are to either run them dry, or fill to the top and stabilize. just about the worst thing you can do is leave a partial tank of untreated fuel.

I run most of my small equipment dry and store it that way. If it's something that is seasonal and I don't plan on using it for a long time, I will pull the plug and air filter to give it a shot of fogging oil or PB Blaster (whatever I have on the shelf) to coat the insides. I figure if all the rubber and plastic parts of the carb aren't sitting in gas when they don't have to be it can't hurt. I only takes a minute to flip a small tool over and dump the gas into something else, so why not. I have a little hand transfer pump for the bigger toys (generator, power washer, etc.)

I use my 2-cycle leaf blower most of the year so that's where all my saw and weedeater fuel wind up. Whatever is left in there and the mix can at the end of the season gets dumped into the tractor. I run that all year around so it will get burned up. A little 2-cycle mix in with a few gallons of straight gas won't hurt a thing. If I need the saw over the winter I will mix up a batch then.

I stabilize all my fuel when I purchase it so I don't have to remember to do it later. Regular Stabil has been working fine for me, I have heard good things about PRI stabilizer and might try some when my Stabil bottle is empty.

toddnic said:

Run all of the gas out of it! It is very easy to do. With your grass trimmer, chainsaw, etc., start them first and then drain the gas....restart and then wait for it to run out of gas (a few seconds to a few minutes). Gas can start to varnish and gum up the carburetor in a few months sitting. You can add a ethanol additive and stabilizer but why spend the extra money when it is very easy to run the gas out of the equipment (and you also don't have to worry about it being a problem).

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This is exactly what I do every year and have zero problems in the spring starting equipment up

Craig

Stihl mix oil (and likely others) has stabilizer in it.

I use that. And do nothing else - don't drain or run dry. No issues.

My stuff doesn't sit real long though - worst is the weedwhacker, it can go 8 months not moving. But it sits in a shed all year that gets pretty hot in summer. Still no issues. Saws can sit for half that long or a bit more, over winter, in semi-heated basement entry way. No issues there either.

If I was laying something up for a longer time, I would do the drain & run-dry thing. And make sure there was stabilizer in the fuel, either from what's in the oil or added to it. Even emptying the tank & running it dry can leave bits of fuel in places that can turn to sludge if not stablized. If it's a 4 stroke, add stabil, then drain tank, shut gas off, & run dry.

Or that's what I do at least...

maple1 said:

Stihl mix oil (and likely others) has stabilizer in it.

I use that. And do nothing else - don't drain or run dry. No issues.

My stuff doesn't sit real long though - worst is the weedwhacker, it can go 8 months not moving. But it sits in a shed all year that gets pretty hot in summer. Still no issues. Saws can sit for half that long or a bit more, over winter, in semi-heated basement entry way. No issues there either.

If I was laying something up for a longer time, I would do the drain & run-dry thing. And make sure there was stabilizer in the fuel, either from what's in the oil or added to it. Even emptying the tank & running it dry can leave bits of fuel in places that can turn to sludge if not stablized. If it's a 4 stroke, add stabil, then drain tank, shut gas off, & run dry.

Or that's what I do at least...

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Happy to see I am not the only one ... I put stabilizer in a lot of small engines for long term storage, but never have done so with the chainsaw ... with zero issues.