Jotul f600 - had to remove tubes

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therealex

New Member
Dec 10, 2014
14
New York
Hi,
I've had my f600 for almost 10 years. First, the air control rod snapped - no biggie, just haven't gotten around to drilling out a new hole for a new rod. Meanwhile, I keep it open.

Then, the tubes started sagging down on the left side. Tonight I took the whole assembly out - all the ceramic around that side on the tube "holder" had crumbled. So now I have a big empty iron box. I'll find out how much it will be to replace the tube holder, if necessary. It comes in the upper and lower parts, which screw together. Being made of iron, the only thing wrong is the ceramic is gone.

But I still have no idea why it was hanging down. So (finally), two questions:

1. Can I burn without it, or will that pour too much smoke up my chimney? I'm assuming it recycles and reburns the smoke.

2. Am I missing something here? It seemed to only be held on by one bolt. It came right off (whereas I had to loosen the right bolt to remove the right assembly). Was it as simple as just re-positioning the assembly and re-tightening the bolt to stop it from sagging?

I appreciate the help. I really am in the dark about this, and don't want to compromise the safety of it.

- Russ
 
With the air control open all the way it may overfire the stove. It sounds like the stove needs attention. Don't continue to burn before fixing the air control. The air slider valve sounds like it is sticking. This needs to be fixed along with the new air control handle. Pull the doghouse, vacuum out and find where it is binding.

I'm not sure about the tubes. There should be upper and lower tube holders that keep the tubes in place.Are they still ok?
 
Thanks for your reply. I actually took the entire air slide assembly out last year. I'm either going to order a new part, or use a drill press and rethread the hole.
as I had said, I took out the entire assembly and the ceramic between the upper and lower tube holders had crumbled and cracked.I could put the whole assembly back in again but it seems very loose. Even with the screws tightened all the way, the tubes can easily fall out again. It's as if there should be something else keeping the whole assembly stiff. I'm wondering if that cracked ceramic was the thing that was holding them in securely. Any information you might have would be appreciated.
 
I haven't taken this stove apart but know that Jotul uses a ceramic like cement on the joints of their stoves. From your description it sounds like they may have used this to bed and seal the tubes in the secondary rack.

I wonder if certain refractory cements would work? With the stove top lid is off, maybe it could be troweled in and cast in place?
https://www.rutland.com/p/117/stovo
https://www.rutland.com/p/7/august-west-fire-clay
 
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I haven't taken this stove apart but know that Jotul uses a ceramic like cement on the joints of their stoves. From your description it sounds like they may have used this to bed and seal the tubes in the secondary rack.

I wonder if certain refractory cements would work? With the stove top lid is off, maybe it could be troweled in and cast in place?
https://www.rutland.com/p/117/stovo
https://www.rutland.com/p/7/august-west-fire-clay

With the stove top lid off? I don't think it comes off! It's just a huge iron box, as far as I know of. If it IS removable, I would very much appreciate it. I sure hope there is, because now that I'm looking at it, I have no idea how the heck to get it back in again!
 
The lid on all Jotuls are removable as far as I know. This is a requirement in Britain and other European countries for flue cleaning. Look inside under the top. There should be 3-4 (10mm?) bolts holding it down. The lid should be gasketed so the bolts can be left off.
 
are you saying you have been burning it with the air control mechanism out? If so it is very possible you burnt out that air tube and baffle assembly either post some pics or get a pro to check it out or both
 
are you saying you have been burning it with the air control mechanism out? If so it is very possible you burnt out that air tube and baffle assembly either post some pics or get a pro to check it out or both

I thought I had the air valve set for half way, but upon seeing your post I just took off the housing and checked it. Apparently, I've had it closed all this time! That explains why it it was hard to keep it lit at first, until it burned to an ember bed - but after that it burned nice and slow, and would stay hot for 6 - 8 hours. I had removed the air restrictor that moves the slide because the rod snapped off - apparently something that's well known to happen but Jotul hasn't addressed.

Anyway, I've attached a photo of what the tubes looked like before I took them down. Regarding removal of the top:

Yup, I see four bolts, plus another couple of bolts on some kind of bracket (see photo).

I found this thread here: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...ul-f600-firelight-inside-guts-of-stove.76480/

which says don't even bother bolting the top lid back on. But it also mentions an insulating blanket that sits on top of the baffle plate. I looked in the manual, and see where it's supposed to go, but I don't have one!

Damn. I'm wondering if I should order a whole new assembly, along with a blanket, clean the heck out of everything inside, and take it from there. But, aside from the ceramic cement being off, there's really nothing wrong with the Tube Holders. So, as Bgreen suggested, I'm thinking of using the refractory cement.

Any other thoughts on that? I see I can order the insulating blanket from woodsmanspartsplus for about $37, but they don't carry the air restrictor. BTW - if someone could upload a photo of exactly how the blanket should look when installed, I would appreciate that.

And thanks for the quick responses and thoughts!
 

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GOT IT!!! I think.

The key was taking off the top. I put the tube holders back in, and it seems apparent that the left one had slipped out of its bolt. The washer was a little bent, too. So I put it all back in again, and it's sitting there, straight and fine. But - no cement yet. I can see where it goes from the right holder, so unless someone posts with "For God's sake! Don't do it, kid!", I'll trundle off to Sears and pick up some.

I'm going to order that insulating blanket, too. Again, if you have a photo showing how it should look, that would be great. And I was (again) mistaken, all I took off was part #65, the handle for the air vent. See if I can find one of those, too.
 
Good news. Before firing up again, get the air control slider working well. Also, while you have the doghouse off squirt some graphite powder in the slider channels to keep it lubed. Then after it is all back together and the air control is working well I think you are going to find you have a completely different stove.
 
Just curious. I see in your picture that the two baffle plates are removed. What kind of shape are they in, considering how much the air tubes are sagging. ??? I'm surprised they didn't fall into the fire box!
 
Have you figured out why your whole assembly has come down in the first place? I know the stove is 10 years old. Do you side load? I've smacked the upper housing trying to stuff to the gills in the past. That's how my tubes and plates inside came lose and eventually came down. Had to replace everything. Changed all the gaskets too. Now the stove burns like a charm. 8 hour loads, 3-4 hour secondaries.
 
Have you figured out why your whole assembly has come down in the first place? I know the stove is 10 years old. Do you side load? I've smacked the upper housing trying to stuff to the gills in the past. That's how my tubes and plates inside came lose and eventually came down. Had to replace everything. Changed all the gaskets too. Now the stove burns like a charm. 8 hour loads, 3-4 hour secondaries.

Stubborn Dutchman - the baffles seem to be ok. You're right - it's surprising they didn't fall in! But they're fine. I guess the insulating blanket burned up at some point, because there's no trace of it now.

Cheechblu - we front and side load. But yes, I'm sure the upper housing has gotten smacked! I'm thinking the washer on the bolt that held on the lower left side housing got bent, and the housing slipped out. That's the only thing that makes sense.

I'm buying new gaskets for the top, the door gaskets are fine (changed them about three years ago.) Why did you have to replace everything (I'm guessing by everything you mean the housing and tubes, right?) Also, the housing comes as two separate halves for each side. It's held together by two screws, and then there's ceramic cement that goes on the seams. What did you use for the cement - refractory cement, like Begreen suggested, or something else?

Thanks!
 
Stubborn Dutchman - the baffles seem to be ok. You're right - it's surprising they didn't fall in! But they're fine. I guess the insulating blanket burned up at some point, because there's no trace of it now.

Cheechblu - we front and side load. But yes, I'm sure the upper housing has gotten smacked! I'm thinking the washer on the bolt that held on the lower left side housing got bent, and the housing slipped out. That's the only thing that makes sense.

I'm buying new gaskets for the top, the door gaskets are fine (changed them about three years ago.) Why did you have to replace everything (I'm guessing by everything you mean the housing and tubes, right?) Also, the housing comes as two separate halves for each side. It's held together by two screws, and then there's ceramic cement that goes on the seams. What did you use for the cement - refractory cement, like Begreen suggested, or something else?

Thanks!


ThereAlex, yes, I had to replace both sides. Housing and tubes. I over fired, over fried, smacked the baffles and pretty much beat the hell out of it. Now I've learned how to burn wood.

I put my thermometer on the top of the stove now. Jotul says to put it in the corner top. I don't find that to be accurate.


I had the chimney guys change the baffle system, so I'm sorry that I can't answer your question regarding what cement to use.
 
Top gasket should be virgin if this is the first time it has been removed.
 
Top gasket should be virgin if this is the first time it has been removed.
It's hanging down a little. I could probably just reglue it - if I knew what kind of glue to use.

Haven't heard back from the place I was going to buy the insulating blanket from. I had asked them a couple of questions, I guess this is their busy time of year. In the meantime, can I burn without it? Or am I looking for trouble?
 
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