Pellet insert install INFO

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Scottydawg22

New Member
Nov 8, 2007
19
Northwest
Where's a good place to buy my liner for my chimney? Should I go with mostly rigid pipe or all flex? So it's better to seal off the liner at the bottom of the chimney...right? Does that baffle just slip around the liner? I'm buying a quadrafire Castile insert. My hearth is about 3 inches lower than the firebox (inside the fireplace) What are my options there? The dealer said my stove will still fit in there fine, he said it had adjustable legs to support and level the back of the insert. I was thinking of adding a layer of block to my hearth (it's very old worn and dirty) so that could bring it up close to level with the firebox and make the aesthetics better.

My other question is the surround or the panel that seals the fireplace opening. How does that attach? The dealer suggested the steel panel that could be trimmed to fit rather than the cast iron fancy one. I've got rock on the outside of my fireplace so that would have to be cut to fit the cast iron one.

Sorry for all of the questions but I've never done this before! Thanks in advance! Scott
 
Start with the installation instructions in the manual. The pipe manufacturers also provide some good illustrated guides.

The bottom block off plate is made on the job from a sheet of sheetmetal. Once it's been cut to shape with a flange, a hole is cut for the vent pipe, which is threaded through it. You will also need a plate at the top of the chimney that is weather tight.

The surround attaches to the stove and floats in front of the face of the fireplace.

Here are some links:
Piping:
http://www.ventingpipe.com/category.cfm?categoryID=492
http://www.ventingpipe.com/catalogs/Simpson/Pelletvent.pdf
Castile manual:
http://content.hearthnhome.com/downloads/installManuals/man_castileInsert.pdf
Block-off plate instructions:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/making_a_block_off_plate/
 
So if you're using the flexible liner...do you have to attach sections to one another or is it made/cut to your specified length? Like I said, I'm a novice and I'm using you guys to learn about all of the options out there.

How about air requirements? The dealer told me to go by the manufacturer's installation instructions. He said depending on what inspector I get, he may or may not require an air supply for the stove. I believe he said the manufacturer doesn't call for it. He said if the inspector wants it that it's not hard to put it in later. What do you guys think of this?
 
You can get liners in different lengths, then you just cut off the extra. Usually you can make it all the way down with one piece.
 
If you use flex liner, you want it in one continuous length between the rigid pipe at the top and the either a cleanout tee at the bottom, or direct connect to the stove. Look at figure 14.2 in the Castile manual and pictures 16.1, 2 & 3.

If you are in WA state, I believe you'll need outside air. The manual's diagrams shows the options for this. The dealer is not quite right about ease of retrofit. If it requires an extra hole in the block-off plate and top plate, you'll get a better job if you plan on this right from the start.
 
Great thanks! Are there any advantages to using the rigid liner? I was thinking about creosote or ash build up and how easy they would be to clean. How about cost? I don't want to go cheap in quality but if there's a big price difference for items that do the same job and have about the same durability then I'd choose the less expensive option.
 
BeGreen I grew up in Lakewood...went to Lakes High...just curious what part of South Puget Sound you were in? I live in Eastern Washington now.
 
The existing chimney is a zero clearance with 8" piping...there is a damper. Do I need to remove that when I put in my pellet insert liner? Someone said I might be able to go around it but ?...I don't know if that would be the best option.
 
There won't be creosote with a pellet stove. If burning correctly, all you get is fine ash. If not, it will be black soot. You should leave in the damper, but if possible wire it open. Follow the block-off plate instructions posted earlier.

A flex liner is easier to install if there are offsets and for getting around the smoke shelf. I ran my stove with a flex liner. When the stove was pulled and sold 5 years later, the liner looked like new.

How large a space will you be trying to heat with the stove?
 
hotfire22 said:
BeGreen I grew up in Lakewood...went to Lakes High...just curious what part of South Puget Sound you were in? I live in Eastern Washington now.

On a remote island surrounded by sharks, in an undisclosed location. ;-)
 
I live in a condo and it's 1750 square feet. It's two story though and the heat really moves up to the second floor where the bedrooms are. There's a big open vaulted ceiling that ties the main lower floor with the upper level.
 
Sounds like a ceiling fan would help. Do you have one and run it in reverse in the winter?
 
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