Schrader running

Well, I finally got the Shrader hooked up just before my surgery...glad I did as the electric furnace was already running me $350 the month. So, I test fired a small pine board fire ( hot and fast burn) then I built a little bigger fire and messed with the dampers and all and found the perfect setting, heats the whole 1400sqft house at 72.
Well the night after surgery it dropped into the low 20's so it was late and I wanted to run it all night so I packed the stove with oak logs ( mostly split with a big whole log on top )
after it got rolling I closed it down and went to bed. Woke up in the middle of the night to hit the toilet and the house was hot, looked at the thermometer for furnace showing it was 78 in the house, well, the heat doesnt move off the sunroom too well so have a box fan behind the stove and the ceiling fan on high as well, and I bet it was 120+ out there, whew. the walls were hot, the floor was blazing...i freaked. Shut all the dampers and waited about 2 hours for the thing to cool down ( I will never again stuff the stove)
my got that thing throws the heat it has been burning clean, no smoke unless theres a wet log, The inside is not showing any signs of creasote, just a tan powdery dust in the stove, the stainless pipes are still clean, the rain cap has rainbowed due to the heat but no creasote or anything building up inside, on or around... not bad for an 8" flue, wish I actually had a 6" flue to slow the burn time down, a couple logs are lasting me about 3 to 4 hours. but have been burning for over a week now with no issues of leaks. My furnace hasnt ran yet except when fire dies down over night and it cools too much in the house (set at 64)

I just had cochlear surgery, so Ive been nice and comfortable lately.

I have the ember protector that came with the stove for the floor, I am actually wanting to build a pad with tile board and ceramic tiles that will go under the entire stove. I am planning for next year to have a wood furnace installed to free up room in the sunroom. Just had cochlear surgery so wont be doing much anytime soon.... But that was the first time I got it that hot and the last time ( still in the testing stages of using the dampers ) trying to get the perfect setting/temp.

Yes, the picture in original post doesnt show the protector, that pic was when I got the pipes installed. I will load a pic of the current set up with the ember protector thats in front on the floor.

I have been getting anywhere from a 2 to 4 hour burn with a few small logs, but mainly on the 2 hour end of the spectrum, keeping the house between 68 and 72 degrees, but has gotten up to 78 but that is pushing it and getting too hot in the sunroom where fans are not efficient at moving the warm air out for some reason?
I have been able to stoke the stove and get a burn til around 3am and after that the furnace takes over til I get up. I am really surprised how little ash there is from the oak in the morning, from burning 9am til 3 am... once in awhile there is still some small hot embers which I use a spray bottle to extinguish then clean out.
I am running low on wood, as I didnt expect this stove to go through it so fast, think I have about another month worth of wood, the step son is offering to come split some for me after finals since I just had surgery and cant do it for awhile, I may have to call somewhere and order in a load or 2....things are kind of tight and trying to get by for a few months cutting down on the electric ( Im all electric here) and the furnace runs that bill up fast.

Grisu said:

Place a fan at the floor level into the room you want to get heat and have it blow cold air into the sunroom. Warm air from the sunroom will travel along the ceiling to the place with the fan to make up for the displaced cold air. Cold air is denser than warm air and therefore easier to move. Of course, you need a straight line of sight between the fan and the sunroom.

Pre-EPA stoves like yours are much less efficient than newer EPA-approved stoves; approx. 40% efficiency versus 70% efficiency. Getting sufficient heat for several hours from just a few splits is actually pretty good. I think you are overestimating how much heat you can get out of a given amount of wood.

By all means, put at least a type 2 hearth pad (~$100 at the hardware store) under the stove or you may soon burn your house down. Even that is probably insufficient but better than the big nothingness you have right now.

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Yes, Im building a ceramic tile pad on tile board (fireproof) to place under it.
Floor never gets hot unless I have a massive fire going ( did that once) but overall the floor stays cool, has the fireproof hearth pad in front of it that supposedly passed as the inspector didnt say a word. (and didnt have the pipes installed either at the time)
Talking to an agent this weekend, may sell the house and dont know if Ill include the stove or not?

Grisu said:

Not quite sure how the inspector could pass the stove when it was not even completely installed. Regardless, your current setup may burn your house down sooner rather than later.


A stove is usually not a real selling point but I would certainly not try taking it with you. You can get a new stove that uses half the wood, has tighter clearances, a glass door, and will be much easier to get by your insurance for less than $1000.

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I agree, and my insurance is actually really cheap out here, I pay less than 550 a year and thats covering my entire home with wood stove. I installed a fireproof floor under the stove today, wasnt an easy task alone, but got it done. Also picked me up a rank of white oak, may get a couple cords since its cheap and I already went through all i had.

bholler said:

Soory to say but a layer of cement board is no where near enough insulation under that old stove i would not run it with less then 4 layers of 1/2" under it for insulation. Or better yet is that floor over concrete? if so just cut the wood out and lay tile in the opening

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Im not finished yet, Installing ceramic tile on top of it, I asked the inspector on the code and he told me what to install.

bholler said:

Is this the inspector that oked it with out the board to begin with? That old stove needs way more than what you have unless it is ul listed which i doubt

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No he is no longer inspecting...lol
This was a fire inspector I asked this time... This stove, I dont know much about but they looked it up and said what I needed minimum, or I can beef it up, which I will beef it up, as there will be another layer then the ceramic tile installed on that, that way I can also use the ceramic edging to finish it off to look very nice. I am also installing steel railing around the trap door opening behind the stove so I can eliminate the trap door access to the stairs to the basement, then the staircase will be walled off and a door installed at the bottom of the stairs.
The spects I got were based on the diminsions of my stove and the clearance to the floor as well,