There are many times even on an interior install that you need to add or modify structure it is no different on an exterior install as long as you work within the guidelines of the instructions you can get creative to solve problems that is the sign of a good installer. There is no way the manufacturers can write instructions for every possible situation there are times you need to make it work and as long as you do it within the instructions it complies with code.
Hearth, Wall Protection and Chimney Decisions
- Thread starter hoverwheel
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I have a meeting to go to but thought there was a locking bracket kit for DuraTech. Have definitely seen this used outdoors. I look it up later.
Getting closer. The hearth is four layers of durock, then tile. I haven't trimmed the sides yet, or the hearth edges. The gray slab to the left is a granite step for easier access to the deck.
Grisu
Minister of Fire
Looks like it will be a nice install. However, the thimble looks a bit low. Most manufacturers recommend at least 2 ft vertical rise before introducing a horizontal section. I suggest using two 45s instead of one 90 to connect the stove to the thimble.
The angle of the picture is deceptive. It is a 2' rise and a 2' horizontal run with a slight upgrade.
I understood fewer elbows were better? An angled section might look nice with this setup.
I understood fewer elbows were better? An angled section might look nice with this setup.
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
Yikes, I would have put that thimble as close to the ceiling as possible. Saves you money on class A, more vent in the room for better looks, more vertical out of the stove for better draft, and more flexibility for future stove upgrades.
Glad you skipped the common bricks in the hearth. Throw them in the woods.
Glad you skipped the common bricks in the hearth. Throw them in the woods.
oconnor
Minister of Fire
Fewer elbows are better, but that is a simplification. Essentially, as straight as possible with minimal direction changes. One 90 gives two 90 degree turns, one in the elbow, the other in the flue, plus the stagnation that comes with a horizontal section. 2 x 45* gives less direction changes, and the lack of a horizontal section improves flow rate.
The stovepipe I currently have to connect the stove to the class-3 chimney is single wall "junk". I intend to replace that sooner than later, probably right after New Year's. I think I see an upgrade to double walled stovepipe with a couple of 45 deg elbows.
Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll post some pics when It is finished. Trying to finish the chimney outside before it is too late.
Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll post some pics when It is finished. Trying to finish the chimney outside before it is too late.
I've reached the roof rakeline and notched it so the chimney can pass through, but have a question I can't seem to find an answer to wrt the Selkirk metalbest locking bands.
There is a little plastic washer that I believe is just used as a retainer to keep the screw tethered to the band during shipping.
Is the picture below correct as installed or should I move the washer to the right, to be pinched by the bolt head? I just can't see a plastic washer in that application and can't find an installed picture.
There is a little plastic washer that I believe is just used as a retainer to keep the screw tethered to the band during shipping.
Is the picture below correct as installed or should I move the washer to the right, to be pinched by the bolt head? I just can't see a plastic washer in that application and can't find an installed picture.
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