Jotul firelight 12 air control not working

So I'll ask, what isn't working?

Overfiring, or just never getting going?

If the former, start hunting for a bad (or missing) gasket. If the latter, check your wood MC%.

Also, your post says F600, but your thread title says F12. From your description of the air control, I'm guessing a later F12.

My first year with a Firelight 12 on a short exterior 8" clay tile chimney and poorly seasoned wood, I was thinking the same exact thing. I was even beginning to wonder if some long-dead mouse was clogging the air inlet passages. The issue was low draft (poor chimney configuration) and wet wood.

Now I'm burning "okay" wood (seasoned two summers, but I still have no proper shed), and I've improved the chimney with an insulated liner. It's not ideal, but it works. Thankfully I've reduced to burning that stove only on weekends and other occasions... it's not my 24/7 burner.

I have a question on the air control.... I have never taken off the 2 screws holding the plate. I tried last weekend and after years of use, will have to drill them out. My question IS, is this something to be cleaned or is it just for access to the air flow mechanism? Thanks

turbotrix2004 said:

Hi, I own an f600 and the air control stopped working. The lever moves as it should and I have removed cover to see the sliding mechanism it attaches to works as it should. Any ideas on where to look next???

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I just bought a Jotul F600 and decided to break it in outside before i installed it. The fire will not burn without the ash pan lid open.Adjusting the air doesn't make any difference.I considered a draft problem since i don't have but about 24" of pipe on it ; but if that's the case then why does the ash pan lid work???

As BeGreen said . . . 2 feet will not cut it . . . you need more of a draft.

begreen said:

Don't do this! You are turning the stove into a forge and stressing cast parts with the extreme and rapid heating of the grate and base. If there is damage the warranty may be void. With 24" of pipe on it there is no draft. Draft is the engine of the stove. The stove needs 16ft of flue to draft properly.

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it still took over an hour to get the stove to 200 degrees; if there is no draft,which i agree, then cracking the ash lid just a bit is replacing the combustion air. I know I'm rerouting the air but if this stove is that sensitive why would i even want it? I'm just trying to burn off the exterior before i install it to keep that burnt paint smell out of the house.

Probably okay with just 24" of pipe, but never run with ash door ajar and a real chimney, or you'll very quickly destroy the stove. Not an issue unique to this stove.