Which bearings ?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

jss227

Burning Hunk
Dec 15, 2014
129
Hancock Maine
I am going to replace the bearings in both my convection and combustion blowers. Which would be the better bearing, oil filled or grease. Both are shielded stainless. Thanks.
 
Sorry no one caught this tonight - hopefully in the morning. Welcome to the forum...
 
I would go with grease packed bearings, they are more suitable to high temperature operation and they don't dry out as quickly.
 
Thank you both. The reason I was wondering is because I can only get a year out of the grease packed (factory) bearings on my EP. Temps as read by IR gun are only 175 deg. max. PDVC has been 3 years without a peep from the bearings. ( I probably just jinxed myself.)
 
Didn't know different ones were available. Last time I went to a motor repair shop and they said these ones will work. I think they have been running for three years now.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Lake Girl
Didn't know different ones were available. Last time I went to a motor repair shop and they said these ones will work. I think they have been running for three years now.
There are different ones, pressed cages, stainless steel, oil, grease, diff. abec ratings etc. Since I have some old motors I thought I would try new bearings instead of whole new units. Especially since this one stove likes to eat one a year.
 
Some motors have a flat on the shaft for where set screw sets some don't if yours does not grind one on it. It makes it a lot easier to take off in future bearing changes.
John
 
Sealed not shielded
 
You want bearings with viton seals for the heat protection. Those ebay bearings, 10 for $8.80, have China written all over them. I'd look for a good bearing.
 
You want bearings with viton seals for the heat protection. Those ebay bearings, 10 for $8.80, have China written all over them. I'd look for a good bearing.

They used to say that about Japan products. Not anymore. Heck, they make better steel than us now.
 
Last edited:
The China thing, the first set of bearings I got from McMaster-carr were FAG I believe were German they did not last the season so I cheeped out and bought from the guy on eBay and they have lasted at least three seasons. I do agree I would rather by American but I'm not sure there any better. By the way my race car has Chinese connecting rods and American bolts that stay together over 9300 rpm so they must be doing something right.
John
 
The China thing, the first set of bearings I got from McMaster-carr were FAG I believe were German they did not last the season so I cheeped out and bought from the guy on eBay and they have lasted at least three seasons. I do agree I would rather by American but I'm not sure there any better. By the way my race car has Chinese connecting rods and American bolts that stay together over 9300 rpm so they must be doing something right.
John
And those MOOG steering parts for that German rocketship of yours are also made in CHINA! I couldn't believe it when I picked up the MOOG boxes.
 
I've ordered the ebay bearings. For the price even if they are junk they will be better than the originals that have been repacked several times. Chinese parts don't scare me, as most steel engine parts come from there now. My sig picture was taken at Winterport dragway, lots of Chinese steel being used there.
 
Those are sealed bearings so you won't need to repack them. Of course, being a racer, you know that but for the info of others looking to replace bearings I thought I would mention it.
 
Those are sealed bearings so you won't need to repack them. Of course, being a racer, you know that but for the info of others looking to replace bearings I thought I would mention it.
The originals are a sealed bearing also, but where there is a will there is a way.
 
The China thing, the first set of bearings I got from McMaster-carr were FAG I believe were German they did not last the season so I cheeped out and bought from the guy on eBay and they have lasted at least three seasons. I do agree I would rather by American but I'm not sure there any better. By the way my race car has Chinese connecting rods and American bolts that stay together over 9300 rpm so they must be doing something right.

I suppose bearings in stove motors don't see near the RPM that they would in other applications but I still wouldn't use them. The No.1 reason most bearings fail prematurely is handling and improper installation. Made in China is the 2nd. I prefer NSK, SFK, Koyo, Nachi, Timkin and FAG. Not in that order.

China connecting rods will hold up but not before straightening, adding ARP bolts, resizing and balancing. What engine do you spin to 9300?
 
I've ordered the ebay bearings. For the price even if they are junk they will be better than the originals that have been repacked several times. Chinese parts don't scare me, as most steel engine parts come from there now. My sig picture was taken at Winterport dragway, lots of Chinese steel being used there.

When you survey all the foreign parts used on American cars, you have to wonder if it's ok to call them American. Harley riders give me a good ribbing sometimes for driving a Kawasaki Vulcan Nomad. Aside from the fact that I could buy three Nomads for the cost of a similarly equipped bike. The fun part, there are more American parts on my bike than theirs. Icing on the cake, Harley designed and helped build the Kawasaki plant in Japan. Guess it really is a global economy.
 
Last edited:
5.jpg It's an M10 2 valve 2 liter engine the rods are Carrillo knock offs with ARP L19 bolts. It will actually revs higher but its our of its power band.

John
 
I suppose bearings in stove motors don't see near the RPM that they would in other applications but I still wouldn't use them. The No.1 reason most bearings fail prematurely is handling and improper installation. Made in China is the 2nd. I prefer NSK, SFK, Koyo, Nachi, Timkin and FAG. Not in that order.

China connecting rods will hold up but not before straightening, adding ARP bolts, resizing and balancing. What engine do you spin to 9300?
You forgot STRESS RELIEVING and CRYO TREATING, which is a really great way of improving life and toughness.
 
  • Like
Reactions: funflyer
The rocker arms are REM treated also Cryoed and Rem treated the whole transmission it does make a big difference well worth the money spent.
 
  • Like
Reactions: tjnamtiw
  • Like
Reactions: Pete Zahria
yea its only a 4 banger, I wish it ran on wood pellets for around 5 bucks a bag instead of $15 bucks a gallon for c16.
 
yea its only a 4 banger, I wish it ran on wood pellets for around 5 bucks a bag instead of $15 bucks a gallon for c16.
Move to methanol. Great stuff, $3 per gallon the last two years. Running 14/5-1 compression in an 82 s-10 drag truck.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.