what gas to use

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I ordered a case of pre mixed gasoline and engine oil (50-1) from Bailey;s. I presume that is no ethanol. Saves me mixing too. Don't worry however, I wont be getting rid of my 1.5 gallon old school Blitz gas can.....
 
I was using 87 with 10% ethanol in my husky. Started to run terrible . So I switched to 93 without ethanol and she runs like a champ
The 32oz cans of fuel Husqvarna sells is non ethanol 95 octane 50:1, since I can't find 95 octane I use 93 octane without ethanol. The manual says not to use fuel under 87 octane or more that 10% ethanol. Using fuel with more than 10% ethanol will void the Husqy warranty. To simplify my life I emptied all the cans with straight gas into my car and dumped all mixed fuel into one gas can, I then bought 5 gallons of 93 octane premium and made a fresh 1/2 gallon of 32:1 mix to use in all my 2 cycle toys. I will keep the rest to run all my small engine toys with 93 octane non ethanol gas. The new Husqy will never taste ethanol.
 
I use 93 premium and Amsoil Saber in the saw.

93 premium in every single engine I have other than my truck.

Three dirt bikes (2 carbed, 1 fuel injected) 1 quad, snow blower, 2 lawnmowers, 2 saws, Log splitter, etc.

Never once (knock on wood) an ethanol issue, and I rarely treat them with stabilizer, and never drain carbs or gas tanks when not in use. I don't use junk gas, so I shouldn't have junk gas problems. That's just me and my opinion.
 
Dunno the particular formulation. They advertise that there's stabilizer in it.
I'm always open to see what works for other people. I have always used Stabil in my fuel cans after October because I don't know how long the fuel will be in the cans. I keep Seafoam around because it can be used in both gas and diesel. When I got sick in 2001 I left the same diesel in my backhoe for almost 15 months, I drained the tank and filter but the Seafoam treated diesel in the tubes still started the 3 cylinder Perkins engine in less than 10 seconds of cranking. I was sold on it.
 
I'm always open to see what works for other people. I have always used Stabil in my fuel cans after October because I don't know how long the fuel will be in the cans. I keep Seafoam around because it can be used in both gas and diesel. When I got sick in 2001 I left the same diesel in my backhoe for almost 15 months, I drained the tank and filter but the Seafoam treated diesel in the tubes still started the 3 cylinder Perkins engine in less than 10 seconds of cranking. I was sold on it.

I use Sea Foam as a fuel system cleaner but I doubt it's value as a stabilizer for aging gasoline and seriously doubt it's benefits in diesel fuel because it's a slovent and has no lubrication qualities. ULSD is alerady dry (not much lubricating quality for injector pintles and micro honed surfaces in the injection pump) so why dilute what little lubricant there is in ULSD with another solvent.... Sea Foam.

Your best bet for long term storage of diesel is a biocide additive like Power Clean. I use a biocide in my bulk diesel storage tank here on the farm when I overwinter diesel.
 
I use 93 premium and Amsoil Saber in the saw.

93 premium in every single engine I have other than my truck.

Three dirt bikes (2 carbed, 1 fuel injected) 1 quad, snow blower, 2 lawnmowers, 2 saws, Log splitter, etc.

Never once (knock on wood) an ethanol issue, and I rarely treat them with stabilizer, and never drain carbs or gas tanks when not in use. I don't use junk gas, so I shouldn't have junk gas problems. That's just me and my opinion.
If it's not two stroke it isn't nessassary
 
I use Sea Foam as a fuel system cleaner but I doubt it's value as a stabilizer for aging gasoline and seriously doubt it's benefits in diesel fuel because it's a slovent and has no lubrication qualities. ULSD is alerady dry (not much lubricating quality for injector pintles and micro honed surfaces in the injection pump) so why dilute what little lubricant there is in ULSD with another solvent.... Sea Foam.
Maybe you didn't catch the date, winter 2001. Off road diesel was still at 500ppm so no lubricity issues at all, ULSD wasn't around for another 5 or 6 years.
 
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Maybe you didn't catch the date, winter 2001. Off road diesel was still at 500ppm so no lubricity issues at all, ULSD wasn't around for another 5 or 6 years.

Candidly, I didn't.
 
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Candidly, I didn't.
It has been so long ago I don't remember whether I used the Seafoam as a fuel stabilizer or a fuel system cleaner. Back then no one worried about lubricity, it was all about old fuel and fouled injectors. But I do use Seafoam as an injector cleaner in my Duramax, because at 14mpg the fuel never goes stale.
 
But I do use Seafoam as an injector cleaner in my Duramax, because at 14mpg the fuel never goes stale.


I'd consider something else myself because it is very dry, it's basically Stoddard solvent with some 'undisclosed additives' added, fine for a 4 stroke sngine, even an FI gas engine because the injector pintles are a different design than the diesel counterparts, Not saying it would cause immediate damage or damage at all, but it might so why chance it. I'd again use a biocide and possibly a lubricity additive, I use Power Clean as the algae preventer (maintenance dosage) and Cat Injector Pintle Additive for lubricity enhancement., those are personal choices, there are numerous products out there that do the job.

BTW, I get 21 highway from my 7.3 Ford........lol Of course it's been modified via Gale Banks.
 
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Star Tron fuel treatment is supposedly good stuff. I have a friend who is heavily into snow machines, and he highly recommends it over Seafoam or anything else. It eats the cloudiness right out of deteriorated or saturated fuel, and has enzymes to eat ethanol build up.

I do use that in my fuel injected bike for the first tank of the season. Only because I love my dirt bike and I imagine cleaning a fuel injector would be more difficult than a carb.
 
I have that too. It's similar to Seafoam). I look at most additives as 'elixirs' to medicate the purchaser's mind, more than anything else...... Sort of likie the 'Marvel Mystery Oil' scenario.....That does everything well as the bottle claims. Stuff smells good and looks god so it must work.....

Candidly, I use MMM in my air tools. I like the smell, whether scientifically, it's worth a darn, it anyone's guess.

I have a whole shelf of just additives btw. All are 'mind settling'..........:) With the exception of the biocide for diesel which is, of course chemically derivived to kill microorganisms in diesel fuel. Problem with any biocide is, it kills the algae but leaves the remains (exoskeletons) in suspension in the diesel, so your primary filter still gets the job of removing them.

How any living organism can live and flourish in diesel fuel is beyond my comprehension but lots of things are. At least I have the commercially available means of eradicating them.
 
There are a lot of snake oils out there. MMO isn't one of them. I had a stuck oil ring in one of my quads and it was burning oil like a son of a bi#ch. I ran it that way for quite some time, but decided to do a piston soak in the stuff. Pulled the plug, let it soak for 3 days and it freed up. Gotta watch that stuff with clutches though.
 
It does smell good, I'll give it that. I use a lot of it (buy it in gallons), in air line lubricators in the shop. It may (or may not) be 99% phooey but it's not an issue with me.
 
I think one of the main ingredients is wintergreen oil? Pretty sure that's where the smell derives from anyway.
 
Little update. I received the case of pre-mix (50-1) fuel from Baileys this morning (has to ship UPS btw) and ut smells liie gasoline, is clear and I'll be using it. There is no 'shelf life'instruction on the can other than keep it tightly closed. It's easier to fill the saw tank with the bottle than the Blitz can, I'll give it that. I'm always overfilling the tanks because it's hard to observe the fuel level when the spout is almost as large as the opening in the tank. Not an issue with the pre-mix cans. Easy to fill and no spills. I think they will work just fine.
 
Hats off to you guys who use the pre-mixed stuff in a can. I went through almost 2 gallons of fuel last weekend alone sawing up 5 truck loads of wood. I'd be better off heating with propane I think if I didn't mix my own. :p
 
Myself, I heat with corn or pellets. My wood cutting is limited to downed timber on my property and all the stuff under 8: gets chipped anyway. Over 8 gets piled and roasted or given away. I've had some pretty big roasts in the past......;lol

My issue with pre-mix bottles and gas cans is the spillage when fueling (mainly) and there is always a bit of premix oil left in the little Stihl bottles that has to be rinsed out and added to the mix can, kind of a PITA.
 
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