Best places to buy PC45 parts

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bags

bags

Minister of Fire
Oct 12, 2014
2,408
Kentucky
Looking for some other spares and back up parts to have on hand just in case. Probes and other misc. stuff to fix the inevitable problems that will eventually occur.

Where are good places online or others and What should I have on the list?

I want to have things on hand because I am going to have my P68 and PC45 become more primary heat sources for my home.

Thanks. Any and all thoughts and suggestions are welcome.
 
http://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/

Should be able to get everything you need at a cost less than what hearthshops charge.
Spare ESP, spare Igniter & gasket material for the doors & glass are the wear parts most often needed.
The motors fail, but not very often. I guess your inventory depends on your storage space &
your checkbook.
 
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An ESP would be pretty high on the list because without one working properly a Harman is not going to work. Spare exhaust fan would probably be #2. One can run the stove in manual mode and just have to build your own fire. Around here shutting the stove down is pretty rare except for cleaning, so if it was a manual light I probably wouldn't really care so would put igniter pretty low on the list. The room distribution fan can be had at Grainger and others places and if one does a good annual cleaning should be able to feel and listen for an impending failure. Season ending cleaning should include a good inspection of all gaskets and if in a pinch one can take a pliers and pinch the flat gasket to plump it up for a temporary fix. Board fuse in case.
 
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Thanks fellas! I just went ahead and replaced all the rope gaskets because they were pretty ratty as Bio had suggested to do a ways back. Also anti-seized many bolts and set screws on both stoves. I couldn't get the exhaust fan off the 45 yet but finally got the set screw out. I anti-seized the spindle and fan on the 68 and the plate latch screws and bolts.

Any secrets to getting the fan blade off? I have WD-40ed it and hit it with PB Blaster and still no luck. I don't want to force it and damage anything. Might leave it until the motor goes? How hard is it to solder the pot switches? I have soldered some little wires and stuff before. How quick do the guys that test the boards and do the switches turn the boards around?

I am going to get what you recommended with an extra ESP, Igniter, fuses, & exhaust fan. I'll go ahead and get some more door ropes too since they are cheap. I know the 45 has a new Dayton blower and a new auger motor. It also came with another new auger motor. I just bought a new pellet burn pot kit from rona here. I have numerous pots, stirrers, and other wearables too that came with the stove. The only thing in question now is the switches but they still work. I did the rolling back and forth to see if that helps but I currently unhooked the stove. It still runs and works fine but the switches seem to be getting tired and worn.

Please let me know on the fan blade and pot switches. Thanks Again
 
The igniter for the 68 anyway. Isn't the 45's pretty bullet proof? They seem to cost more. I'm pretty sure some of these parts are interchangeable between these two stoves also.
 
The switches are not that bad but I invested in a good digital iron. Do not want to over heat anything. Older eyes appreciate a lighted magnifier.
 
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Was told by dealer that the pump usually goes before the igniter and that burns out the igniter on the 45.
 
bags said:
Thanks fellas! I just went ahead and replaced all the rope gaskets because they were pretty ratty as Bio had suggested to do a ways back. Also anti-seized many bolts and set screws on both stoves. I couldn't get the exhaust fan off the 45 yet but finally got the set screw out. I anti-seized the spindle and fan on the 68 and the plate latch screws and bolts.

Any secrets to getting the fan blade off? I have WD-40ed it and hit it with PB Blaster and still no luck. I don't want to force it and damage anything. Might leave it until the motor goes? How hard is it to solder the pot switches? I have soldered some little wires and stuff before. How quick do the guys that test the boards and do the switches turn the boards around?

I am going to get what you recommended with an extra ESP, Igniter, fuses, & exhaust fan. I'll go ahead and get some more door ropes too since they are cheap. I know the 45 has a new Dayton blower and a new auger motor. It also came with another new auger motor. I just bought a new pellet burn pot kit from rona here. I have numerous pots, stirrers, and other wearables too that came with the stove. The only thing in question now is the switches but they still work. I did the rolling back and forth to see if that helps but I currently unhooked the stove. It still runs and works fine but the switches seem to be getting tired and worn.

Please let me know on the fan blade and pot switches. Thanks Again
Click to expand...
I watched a neighbor replace the switch that shuts off the 45 today. It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. You remove the board from the metal frame then work from the back side. Loosen the solder at each connection and lift slowly then clean the holes and set the new switch in place and resolder. It seemed to work after words and shut off when it was supposed to.
That exhaust fan blade seems to be a exercise in futility. I ended up taking the dealers advice and buying a new fan and motor.
 
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No real way to get behind the fan to pry off. I can't get the set screw of ours so when it goes will get the Dremel and cut the shaft.
 
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I figured the place that is offering the pot switch replacement is making about $90 an hour.
 
Likely the plan I'll have when the time comes. Some things are better left alone. Stove is pretty much ready for install and I'll be doing it ASAP when I finish a couple of things in the house.
 
I think the switches are something I can do without a problem. Just never messed with a stove control board yet. Worth a shot. They aren't bad but I think they could go any time.
 
The one that costs $350. Mounted above the distribution fan and feeds the igniter.
 
OK, $350 Ouch! I'll take a look so I know which that is. Still have the rear panels off and just want to make sure I have as many I's dotted and T's crossed as I can. Just want to have my bases covered. Feeling pretty good about it. Hopefully, it runs for the rest of the year without a hitch. Probably over thinking it some. Set it and forget it....... something breaks then fix it.
 
Like I said earlier, igniter etc is pretty low on the list as one can manually start. Just remember to keep the pump filter clean. Heard of a stove not ever shutting the pump down and ran that way for years before it was caught by a service tech.
 
I did clean the little round foam filter too when you said to check that out. Quick and easy. I wasn't very dirty at all. I saw somewhere online where the whole little filter and plastic casing that screws out costs about $8 bucks new for the whole thing. Imagine it would be easy enough to cut little round gray foam out of the same material if the foam got to where it was shot. I don't see the plastic housing going bad unless you break it or the cap somehow.

Just looked for the pump. Is it what the filter screws into? Then the clear silicone tube comes out and down to the igniter? I don't have a very good diagram or parts list in the 45 manual. The have better and more detailed schematics in the new 68 manual though. Where can I get my hands on a copy of the service manual for the 45?

rona said he was going to look for literature and get me a copy of whatever but he may have forgotten. It could be in the mail with him though. He sent my parts out before I knew it. Felt bad his parts beat my check by a day or two but he wasn't too worried. It was a seamless and pleasant transaction. He has some good pointers too.
 
Yes, the filter screws into pump.
 
Bioburner said:
I figured the place that is offering the pot switch replacement is making about $90 an hour.
Click to expand...
yeah and they aren't working very fast either. I don't think it would take 15 minutes once you were set up and did a couple. The first one a person is naturally a little cautious but after seeing it done I wouldn't be afraid of trying it.
 
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OK Good. I'm figuring more out with your's and Bio's help. I think I'll give it a go if needed. I have a soldering iron but it's old and nothing fancy. Just as soon spend that repair money on a new one. Then it's handled ASAP and no waiting and shipping it everywhere. Bio said he got a good one at Radio Shack for a good deal. Think it's digital or something. Maybe adjustable temp as to not over heat delicate parts. I'll Google the Shack and see what's out there.

rona, Have you figured anything out on your pellet feed yet? Good Luck with it.
 
Try some desoldering braid, looks like a copper braid , a porous braid. Place the braid on the old solder joint and the solder iron on top of the braid. The heat from the tip will draw out the old solder into the braid and loosen the connection. Snip off the used braid and repeat on the other leg. Should allow a clean removal of the bad component. Then re-solder in the new component. You should be able to get the desoldering braid at Radio Shack. This makes removing old components a little easier, but definetly not necessary. Seems more important when removing several leads all at the same time, and there is a time element involved.
 
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Try using a plumbers torch to heat up the set screw over the paddle fan on the combustion motor spindle can loosen up the screw for removal. Just be sure not to use excessive force on the hex wrench which could easily "round out" the socket in the screw or the hex wrench or both, prior to using the torch. If the screw is still stubborn, repeat the by re-heating the set screw with the torch. If the torch doesn't seem to loosen the screw, you would have to resort to the Dremel tool to cut the spindle. Be aware that the paddle fan does not come as a standard accessory of the blower motor, and must be purchased separately. Best to have a spare paddle fan on hand before trying to replace the combustion blower. In any event, use a high temp ( copper based ) anti seize compound on the set screw when attaching the new paddle fan ( or old one ) back on the spindle.
 
It really won't matter what you use, the inherent combustion heat will lock it anyway. I'd soak it in BP or naptha and ligh oil for a couple days and then it should come loose.
 
Luv2burnPellets said:
Try using a plumbers torch to heat up the set screw over the paddle fan on the combustion motor spindle can loosen up the screw for removal. Just be sure not to use excessive force on the hex wrench which could easily "round out" the socket in the screw or the hex wrench or both, prior to using the torch. If the screw is still stubborn, repeat the by re-heating the set screw with the torch. If the torch doesn't seem to loosen the screw, you would have to resort to the Dremel tool to cut the spindle. Be aware that the paddle fan does not come as a standard accessory of the blower motor, and must be purchased separately. Best to have a spare paddle fan on hand before trying to replace the combustion blower. In any event, use a high temp ( copper based ) anti seize compound on the set screw when attaching the new paddle fan ( or old one ) back on the spindle.
Click to expand...
I got the set screw but fan is stuck on the spindle. My comb. blower is good but wanted to anti-seize the spindle. Might try some heat and Vise-Grips to pull it off. If it doesn't want to come within reason I am done until the motor goes one day. Don't fix it if it ain't broken! Don't want that one coming back on me. Good advice on the de-soldering. Makes perfect sense to me. I've soldered before and sweated a lot of pipe.
 
SidecarFlip said:
It really won't matter what you use, the inherent combustion heat will lock it anyway. I'd soak it in BP or naptha and ligh oil for a couple days and then it should come loose.
Click to expand...
What's BP? My thoughts are to maybe up my game when I do the monthly or 1 ton cleans. It would only take a minute to pull the fans each time and easier to clean them better and behind them. If I do that and hit them with anti-seize each time on the shaft / spindle and set screw they may likely stay easy to deal with. If not I'll cut them off if need be wen the time comes.
 
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