Stove temp

Double wall needs a probe type thermometer for the reading to mean anything. Some people like to have one on/in the pipe and the stove. I found the thermometers to be unreliable at best, I use an IR thermometer and take readings as I see fit which isn't too often anymore.

On the stove top. A double wall pipe will measure much lower than a single wall.

husky345 vermont resolute said:

Yes it is a probe dust

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Gotcha, I assumed it was a magnetic type when you asked if you "should I put it directly on the stove top". Figured you were planing to move it from the pipe to the stove.

husky345 vermont resolute said:

Yes it is a probe dust

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Whole different animal. I have my probe about 6" up but it's probably too close. That just happened to be a much more convenient spot for me.

begreen said:

I like to have both.

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+1 on having both a stove top and flue thermometer.

begreen said:

A flue probe helps one track stove efficiency and avoid getting below creosote condensation temps. A stove top thermometer lets you know how the stove is doing. I like to have both.

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If creosote forms at about 250 degrees (smoke condensing), what would be a goal in temp for the flue gasses leaving the stove collar or a probe 16 inches up the pipe? (internal temps)

How would you be able to tell if/when the gasses got below 250 higher up the flue, like say 15 feet or more? Is there a factor or magic formula?


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Using an IR gun, I have found that my reading on the single wall pipe (after the stove pipe masonry adapter) is almost exactly twice of what it is on the double wall pipe just inches apart.

begreen said:

That is hard to say. As you've noted, single wall pipe is going to cool down flue gases much quicker than double-wall. Also the length and path of the stove pipe run, outdoor chimney length exposure and outdoor temps are going to have an effect. And it depends on the stage of the fire. I like to keep the flue internal temp in the double-wall stove pipe reading at least 400F during the outgassing phase and don't really care about the temp during the coal stage. YMMV depending on the flue setup.

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Why is that? Is that because after the flame stage there is no more risk of creosote?

Also, I notice that if I don't reopen my air intake a little during the coaling stage I sometimes get more soot on the glass.

CenterTree said:

Also, I notice that if I don't reopen my air intake a little during the coaling stage I sometimes get more soot on the glass.

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I've been getting that too sometimes. Mostly when I burn my less dense pine-like fir (it's not Douglas Fir, though). My guess is that the early coaling stage is still giving off some creosote products but the secondaries are cooling too much to burn it off. Not sure.

CenterTree said:

How would you be able to tell if/when the gasses got below 250 higher up the flue, like say 15 feet or more? Is there a factor or magic formula?

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Most people get a build-up within a few feet of the chimney cap or on the cap itself. That's where the gases are coolest and the chimney is coldest. Personally, I think if your cap is pristine you are probably either never using your stove or you are allowing too much hot air out of your stove. I'm sure some will disagree and I have no intention of climbing everyone's chimney to justify my point. I got the info form Santa and he should know.

DougA said:

Most people get a build-up within a few feet of the chimney cap or on the cap itself. That's where the gases are coolest and the chimney is coldest. Personally, I think if your cap is pristine you are probably either never using your stove or you are allowing too much hot air out of your stove. I'm sure some will disagree and I have no intention of climbing everyone's chimney to justify my point. I got the info form Santa and he should know.

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Thanks for that info. I am one of those people.

I get the shiny creo near the top only. And of course the rain cap is covered too. When I shine a light down the flue (from top) I can see the creo stops about 4 feet down.

I am wondering what can be done to prevent this? The flue is insulated already.

I burn hot and then turn back the air as needed. Stove top at 500- 600.

OP: I am sorry if I took your thread off course a little. Thanks.

CenterTree said:

I am wondering what can be done to prevent this?

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Good question. AFAIK, nothing other than a chimney brush and some elbow grease. It really doesn't harm anything provided it's not causing any air flow obstruction. I get up on the roof and bang my cap & bird screen with an old hockey stick, then check it to see if I need to use a brush inside.

Reading with interest...lot of good stuff in this thread. Thanks for asking this, OP.

I have to admit, I can't bring myself to drilling my still BRAND NEW double-wall stove pipe for a probe thermometer. But I'm sure I'll get over this sooner or later.

husky345 vermont resolute said:

i have a vc resolute. I have my thermometer about 20 " up the double wall pipe. Is this ok or should I put it directly on the stove top?

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VC manual recommends a stove top temp gauge . Also states not to run at 750 ( or above ?) for extended times . Also says you need 400 min before closing primary air. I like 600 as a target running temp myself

Cheers