Is a stovepipe draft control necessary?

Howdy!!

Flu pipe dampers are really only necessary if you have a harcore draft. With no OAK and a chimney running outside of your house I don't think that you will be in overdraft mode.

There are lots of parameters that determine draft. I say give your stove a try without it and add it if necessary. Personally I don't think you'll need it.

Happy Burning!

Andrew

Most modern EPA stoves don't require the stove pipe damper you mentioned. Take some time to learn your stove and experiment a bit with your primary air control. One thing to keep in mind is that it often takes several minutes to see the results from adjusting that air control. Be patient and see how your stove reacts to minor adjustments and then proceed accordingly Good Luck.

Although...if you do need it...it's better to be looking at it then looking for it. It does no harm if never used...but there if you need it. For the record I needed one and had to install it after the fact...not really a hard job...but wish I had it when I needed it.

Ian

No . . . yes . . . maybe.

Most folks here would probably tell you that in most cases the EPA stoves do not need a flue damper.

Some folks with tall chimneys would say it is a very good idea to have a flue damper to help control the fire.

Other folks have suggested that having a flue damper may also be useful should the fire start to get a little too hot.

I will say since 2008 I have had maybe 6-8 times when I've thought it would be useful to have a flue damper, but most of the time I have not needed one. As of late I am giving some thought to one though . . . mainly because I've got some very well seasoned wood (cut, split and stacked in 2010) and it seems as though I'm getting more intense fires lately.

My own feeling . . . you may not need one, but there really aren't too many drawbacks to not having one (a little more expense, may get in the way of sweeping) and a few ticks in the benefits column (good for tall chimneys and controlling any intense fires.)

No. Only if you have an overpowering draft. No sense purchasing and adding unneeded parts.
Just another thing to possibly give problems or go wrong.
If your draft is too strong for some reason, then consider a damper, otherwise, forgo the damper.

What's the total length of the chimney? If you are exceeding the recommended minimum that will increase the chance you may need a damper.

x2 or whatever mentioned above. The only added suggestion is "if" you go with one and don't need it then do not use it to control the fire. Only use the intake control and leave it wide open. As mentioned, EPA's are designed to NOT need/use key type dampers but some strong draft situations make them a very useful and sometimes necessary tool. If you forgo the damper to start with just know where your air inlets are and have foil and magnets available to cover them completely if you need to slow the roll. This will save you a few clams and suffice as a stop gap if you find one is needed for your system.

My damper cost a whole $7....needed it tonight actually...and it was there when I needed it.