Getting logs off a big pile

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
Just shows there's more than one way to do a job. I cut and split about 15 cords per year, which is likely double or triple most of the folks giving advice here, but I also don't usually get my wood delivered via log truck.
 
Although it's the subject for another thread, I use a thin 16" bamboo stick(plant stake) painted orange for making the next cut. I put it up against the log, find a corresponding mark on the log and put that thin stick in my left hand and cut. I've marked the logs ahead of time before, but it does take some extra steps, and you may have to dance around the rounds you've already cut.

It may sound obvious, but roll them down off the pile (with your peavey) standing off to the side, so that when it starts rolling there's only a slight chance you'll be in the way. If you stand in front, be ready to dance away, and don't trip over anything, lol.
 
I do not normal cut from pole length from a pile - that said...When I have had the need, I simply strap the next victim up and pull it to the ground with my truck (or tractor or whatever). A couple of sleepers placed properly works the best.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ashful
I cut from 3 cord piles dumped from gravel truck last year.
At some point you're gonna have to roll /pull one out / off the pile, especially if they get snow packed / frozen.
Rolling off the pile onto other logs so you're not on the ground tends to speed things up, too

I've used a long branch/tree as a pry bar
 
Here's some pics of the pile! ImageUploadedByTapatalk1419267211.021072.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1419267229.370483.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1419267240.603574.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1419267250.437234.jpg
 
Some sage advice in this thread. Thanks so much everyone!

I realized after posting that there isn't a great frame of reference in these photos. The diameter of the log in the last pic is at least 2 feet, probably a little bit more than that. In the pic above that one, there's another log from the same tree on the far right.


Hoping to get started on Wednesday. We have two little ones so getting some free time will probably be the hardest part of this whole process.
 
What I do is use the first 3 or 4 logs to make a "table at one end of the pile, usually the downhill end if it's not level. Then once the log table is in place, cut some notches in the top logs to stabilize when cutting. This year I added a couple of 18" pieces of rebar drilled into the top logs and it worked as a stop to stop rolling logs as they come down off the pile. Mostly use a crowbar to pull them down, tho I might try to find a longer pry bar or cant hook (I think that's what it's called).

This also has the advantage of saving my old back from a lot of cutting too low. The table is usually about 24" high give or take.
 
Holy cripes what a perfect pile to work. Mine are generally stacked 12 feet high by 40 feet long in 8 foot log lengths.

If that pile was in my work station, I would have a long prybar, chainsaw, bar oil, and plenty of fuel handy. Might not even use the prybar. Begin just after breakfast and that pile would be bucked by lunch or before.

Fire the saw up , walk in, and kick some butt.
 
Hello Mr Inlay. Let these guys tell you how to work that pile, and I'll give you a caution from another perspective. I think you're a player, so in addition to protecting the rest of your body, here are a few thoughts for your hands. There was a summer or two I HAD to work on downed trees in the yard. I used my hands as vises - Big Mistake. There was no injury "event", but I played some pretty painful gigs until I put 2+2 together. I had to switch to handling all lumber with open palms before it got under control, and it's still with me today (I have a hand budget I must stick to). I'm a lot older than you, but this stuff adds up.

When you get to work of this scale, Repetitive Stress Injuries (RSI) are possible. I got what I think is Tennis Elbow from holding two buttons on my little electric splitter for hours and hours, so I had to rig up a hands-free system. What a relief.

The back is the thing that we all worry about, but I'll say if you have some small issue at the end of a shift, try to multiply it by 100 or 1,000 over 4-5 years and make corrections tomorrow. It's quite an eye-opener when you go to pick up a cup of coffee and scream!!:eek:
 
Holy cripes what a perfect pile to work. Mine are generally stacked 12 feet high by 40 feet long in 8 foot log lengths.

If that pile was in my work station, I would have a long prybar, chainsaw, bar oil, and plenty of fuel handy. Might not even use the prybar. Begin just after breakfast and that pile would be bucked by lunch or before.

Fire the saw up , walk in, and kick some butt.

That's reassuring to hear! Like I said, I'm brand new to this so I have no frame of reference. Thanks BoiledOver
 
Hello Mr Inlay. Let these guys tell you how to work that pile, and I'll give you a caution from another perspective. I think you're a player, so in addition to protecting the rest of your body, here are a few thoughts for your hands. There was a summer or two I HAD to work on downed trees in the yard. I used my hands as vises - Big Mistake. There was no injury "event", but I played some pretty painful gigs until I put 2+2 together. I had to switch to handling all lumber with open palms before it got under control, and it's still with me today (I have a hand budget I must stick to). I'm a lot older than you, but this stuff adds up.

When you get to work of this scale, Repetitive Stress Injuries (RSI) are possible. I got what I think is Tennis Elbow from holding two buttons on my little electric splitter for hours and hours, so I had to rig up a hands-free system. What a relief.

The back is the thing that we all worry about, but I'll say if you have some small issue at the end of a shift, try to multiply it by 100 or 1,000 over 4-5 years and make corrections tomorrow. It's quite an eye-opener when you go to pick up a cup of coffee and scream!!:eek:

Ok so my first reaction to this post was, "Why is this guy calling me out as a player??" Then I realized you meant the guitar. Yes I do play guitar (poorly) and lust after guitar gear the way some of the good folks on this site lust after their wood burning practices and devices. And as you probably guessed, my username matches up quite well with your avatar!

I can see how this type of job can definitely set you up for an RSI. Especially the splitting that I can't wait to get started on. I've found as I get a little older and a little less limber (I'm 37 going on 12) that taking the time to warm up and stretch a bit helps with all sorts of activities. Warming up and stretching helps significantly with any sort of physical task. Before kids, I worked out a lot and I'm well aware of the value of stretching and warming up (cooling down too). This project for me will be part save $ on fuel, part learn some new skills, part buy new toys, part get exercise, and part have fun with it.
 
Your pile is fairly tame. I would attack it by cutting as many rounds off the ends as possible, and shut the saw off and move those pieces out from underfoot. I am comfortable with bore-cutting and using the tip of my bar so I would probably get a fair ways into that pile before I started moving whole logs. I tend to prefer rolling them only enough to make them accessible and thus the "shelf" concept explained above works well. It is much easier on the back to cut at waist level than ground level.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Block Inlay
Ok so my first reaction to this post was, "Why is this guy calling me out as a player??" Then I realized you meant the guitar. Yes I do play guitar (poorly) and lust after guitar gear the way some of the good folks on this site lust after their wood burning practices and devices. And as you probably guessed, my username matches up quite well with your avatar!

I can see how this type of job can definitely set you up for an RSI. Especially the splitting that I can't wait to get started on. I've found as I get a little older and a little less limber (I'm 37 going on 12) that taking the time to warm up and stretch a bit helps with all sorts of activities. Warming up and stretching helps significantly with any sort of physical task. Before kids, I worked out a lot and I'm well aware of the value of stretching and warming up (cooling down too). This project for me will be part save $ on fuel, part learn some new skills, part buy new toys, part get exercise, and part have fun with it.

Hah! Presumably regrettable, our definition of Player is the only one I have a chance at achieving!! But I knew you'd get a kick out of your handle and my Avatar. That's my 78 Gibson RD Artist with ebony board and abalone inlays (original owner). I hope I never find out how ebony splits...

Back on topic, I finally had to start icing after shifts to stay in the game. You've got a big advantage in having wood delivered. I get mine from the properties of acquaintances, and as nice as they are, they still want it gone pronto so when it rains it pours.

Tell your wife there's hope because I'm now 56 going on 29. Take care of yourself:)!! Stay flexible when you develop techniques. If it's hard work, then there's a smarter way lurking right under your nose.
 
Hah! Presumably regrettable, our definition of Player is the only one I have a chance at achieving!! But I knew you'd get a kick out of your handle and my Avatar. That's my 78 Gibson RD Artist with ebony board and abalone inlays (original owner). I hope I never find out how ebony splits...

Back on topic, I finally had to start icing after shifts to stay in the game. You've got a big advantage in having wood delivered. I get mine from the properties of acquaintances, and as nice as they are, they still want it gone pronto so when it rains it pours.

Tell your wife there's hope because I'm now 56 going on 29. Take care of yourself:)!! Stay flexible when you develop techniques. If it's hard work, then there's a smarter way lurking right under your nose.

An RD? Very nice!! Ebony is my favorite fingerboard wood for a variety of reasons and block inlays of course. I could be mistaken, but I think lemon oil is a good treatment for ebony.
 
That's a cake pile man. git er done!

I'd be cutting them right where they lay.
I cut in place, then stack the rounds behind me as I go, a few feet away.
That way, your never having to move far. Never having to carry the rounds, just rollem back to the round stack, and stackem up. The only lifting is if you have to get them off the pole stack, I try to roll the cuts as much as possible. Off the pole stack along the ground and lift onto the rounds stack. Then when splitting time comes, they are all ready to pull off the round stacks to split.

If you would rather put them on the ground to cut, just make your cuts along the whole pole as far as you can go without putting the chain into the dirt, then roll the pole over and finish the cuts.
A lot of bending over that way, and Percocets afterward.
I personally like working high, and working my way down, easier on my body for me, and gravity does most of the cutting, so no real soreness of the shoulders etc, cept for abynormal short folks.

I used to use guides, notches, paint etc to mark my cuts, but then I just realized my bar is 18" long, so I just turned the saw parallel to the pole, eyed the spot(the length of the bar), eyed a reference point for the cut, and cut. Now I just eye everything. Only a few need to be trimmed down anymore. The rest are good to go.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: pen and Block Inlay
You'll love the cant hook. I've used Peaveys, but prefer the cant for rolling logs. LogRites are great, light and strong. Which length did you buy?
 
That's a good size. Overkill most of the time, but you'll be happy you have the extra length (and wish you had even more) when you get into bigger stuff. I roll logs as big as 50" diameter with mine, but it's really better at gripping stuff under 40" diameter.

Last weekend I was rolling around a dozen logs around 20" diameter. I might have been a little quicker with s slightly shorter lever there, but was glad I had the leverage a few times.
 
You'll love the cant hook. I've used Peaveys, but prefer the cant for rolling logs.

Yup, I agree a cant hook is better for rolling.

Stick a fork in the end of a hot dog and drag it through the ketchup on your dinner plate.

When you get in a spot where a log needs to be moved and twisting just doesn't work you can spear that log with a Peavey tip and maneuver it a little bit like a hotdog on a dinner fork.
 
When you get used to processing 40" and larger, you just accept that rolling is the only option. You're not going to drag a 15,000 lb. log.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jags
That's a beautiful looking pile of wood. Nice and straight.

Just promise yourself you won't climb up on that pile with your saw. And, if your kids are like mine were, they've got to know they absolutely can't climb up on that pile either. It looks like huge fun, and it is until something starts to move.

I spend most of my time locating, cutting and hauling it out of the woods. You can spend your time making rounds out of wood laying in your yard -- I suspect that's a much better use of your time.

Be careful and have a great time with it!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.