Can you hardwire a Harman 52i insert

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warreng

New Member
Dec 23, 2014
1
Maryland
Hello All, I am looking at getting the Harman Accentra 52i pellet insert. Can this unit be hardwired or is using the plug the only option to power it? It looks like a plug-in unit according to the online manual. If plug in only does anyone know if its rated for or can be plugged in a metal square wall type box within the original fire box to plug it into so the cord is not running across the hearth? Or will it get to hot to have a receptacle in the box? I have a masonry fireplace with chimney and a heatilator (I think its called. Metal type box inside the fireplace). I spoke with the county inspector on the phone and he said he would go by what the manufacture states in their manual. I hate to mount a receptacle in the original firebox only to find out the manufacture doesn’t recommend it. I asked the sales person she didn’t know and I can’t seem to find a number on the Harman homepage to call them. Sorry if this question has already been addressed I couldnt find it in the search box. Thanks in advance for your input. Next I need to search the OAK I've seen on this forum as she never mentioned it.
 
We've tried for YEARS to get local code enforcement to give us an answer to this one & they all waffle.
I've probably installed 50 or so inserts, both woodburning & pellet burning, with an junction box tap-conned
to the floor towards the back of the original fireplace, & we've NEVER been called back because of an issue.
That doesn't make it right, I agree, but like I said, nobody will commit one way or the other.
If it was my house, I'd install it with the wire across the hearth. Get it inspected & approved & then
pull the unit & install a junction box inside the fireplace. Your house = your call.
 
I have the latest 52i and had the unit pulled out of the hearth frame last week for a maintenance action. While the tech was working on it, I took a look in the hearth and there is plenty of space back there, especially outside of the stove frame, where you could put an outlet without getting in the way of anything operational or without being close to heated surfaces. Like another poster said, your call but I can't see any safety issues that jump out at me when I picture what's back there. I do not know what the code folks would say about it but there is nothing flammable in the rear of my fireplace and there is certainly plenty of stove wiring back in that area.
 
It is perfectly fine to mount an outlet behind the stove. A cord plug must be accessible. By sliding out the insert makes it accessible. No different than a dishwasher or fridge. Most room air fans in zero clearance fire boxes are plug in. The plug is for servicing.
 
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It is perfectly fine to mount an outlet behind the stove. A cord plug must be accessible. By sliding out the insert makes it accessible. No different than a dishwasher or fridge. Most room air fans in zero clearance fire boxes are plug in. The plug is for servicing.

Common sense says you are correct, but if the install
is being inspected by a JHA, your opinion may not mean much.
The inspector may have to see something in writing
 
Common sense says you are correct, but if the install
is being inspected by a JHA, your opinion may not mean much.
The inspector may have to see something in writing
from my experience in the sign business, the unit would have to be csa approved. in the states its a different name but similar.I think once the unit is tampered with even though its been certified from manufacturer, it would have to be recertified. I'm new to the pellet scene but thought I'd throw my 2 cents in. it definitely makes sense what u guys have suggested.
 
We just installed a 52i with a zero clearance kit after removing a gas log heatolater that had been hard wired for the fan. I terminated the pwr line with a box and plug. The factory trained installer said this was fine as long as it was outside the zero clearance box. He indicated it does not get that hot behind the stove.
 
Keep in mind you should add a surge protector and a UPS. Unless these are centrally managed in the house (whole house SP and a generator) they are a important for the stove, much more then the plug location. You don't want a surge to kill your $4K stove and you centrally don't want to get caught with it on without a UPS connected... Harman supports a couple of UPS's for a "graceful shutdown" process. if you don't have the whole house solutions, research the surefire 512 stove sentry. We have one and it just saved us from a 3 hour power loss last month. its not cheap, but if you don't have a generator, I would recommend it. it would also mean you cannot have a hidden power plug behind the stove as the stove needs to plug to the UPS, or 512, and then the UPS to the wall and all must be very accessible. So you get a nice basket next to the Hearth and its all good.
 
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Keep in mind you should add a surge protector and a UPS. Unless these are centrally managed in the house (whole house SP and a generator) they are a important for the stove, much more then the plug location. You don't want a surge to kill your $4K stove and you centrally don't want to get caught with it on without a UPS connected... Harman supports a couple of UPS's for a "graceful shutdown" process. if you don't have the whole house solutions, research the surefire 512 stove sentry. We have one and it just saved us from a 3 hour power loss last month. its not cheap, but if you don't have a generator, I would recommend it. it would also mean you cannot have a hidden power plug behind the stove as the stove needs to plug to the UPS, or 512, and then the UPS to the wall and all must be very accessible. So you get a nice basket next to the Hearth and its all good.
Thanks, this is the one area that my installer did not do such a good job of (advising us of our options). Your just up the road from us so you know how often the power goes out around here. We do have a generator but I do worry about the lack of a surge protector. Does anyone know if they make circiut panel breakers with built in surge protection? I know they have ones with built in GFCI.
 
Thanks, this is the one area that my installer did not do such a good job of (advising us of our options). Your just up the road from us so you know how often the power goes out around here. We do have a generator but I do worry about the lack of a surge protector. Does anyone know if they make circiut panel breakers with built in surge protection? I know they have ones with built in GFCI.

We are in town and the power outages are normally short, as they affect the whole town, so we never invested in a whole house generator or even a mobile one. I have the Harman on the sure fire with a 8-10 hour run time and bought a $6 surge protector to plug into. Does your generator have a automatic transfer switch? In any case, I would still get a small UPS for it to cover both the transfer time and surge protection.
 
We've tried for YEARS to get local code enforcement to give us an answer to this one & they all waffle.
I've probably installed 50 or so inserts, both woodburning & pellet burning, with an junction box tap-conned
to the floor towards the back of the original fireplace, & we've NEVER been called back because of an issue.
That doesn't make it right, I agree, but like I said, nobody will commit one way or the other.
If it was my house, I'd install it with the wire across the hearth. Get it inspected & approved & then
pull the unit & install a junction box inside the fireplace. Your house = your call.
That's how the inserts are installed from the stove shop I bought our P61 from, same as you describe. We were looking at a 52i before we bought the P61A and this is what they indicated as doing. And non I've seen ( inserts) have a cord on the hearth). The P61 I installed myself. In my case case they never came out to look but I have an outlet below the fireplace in the basement and I suspect they were going to continue that run up to the firebox and put an outlet in there.
 
It's simple. You CAN hardwire anything electrical. The problem becomes will be safe and will it meet code. Sometimes the two are not necessarily congruent. I've see plenty of safe electrical and mechanical installations that don't conform to code. From what you stated in the OP your local inspector has no idea and your dealer can't find this:800-664-3119. Responses like you got are the main reason I generally rely on doing my own reaearch.
 
You should have a plug so it can be taken outside and cleaned with compressed air at the end of the season. You can vacuum, scrape chisel whatever and you will never get the soot out of the stove that you can with compressed air. You can blow the soot out of the air wash for 20 minutes. Im not sure where it all comes from. You won't believe the soot thats still in the stove until you get it outdoors. hths P5050059.JPGP5050053.JPG
 
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