Question about Standard Gas FP

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

gasvlv

New Member
Dec 27, 2014
5
burlington
In a lower area in my house we have an older gas fireplace, probably that is about 25 years old? Don't really know the age since we are the second owners of the house.
It is an insert as there would have been an original wood burning fireplace where its currently located.

I believe base on some of my research on line that I have a standard gas fp and it is controlled with a dial that will intermittently turn the fp on and off. I assume that this is based on room temp, but dial is located on the control valve itself just below the burner. This fp also has an electric fan running off 120V plug.

This area of the house is part of an addition so we rely on the fp to heat this portion of the house. And I find the "dial" hard to actually control the heat of the room. Up too high room is boiling and vice versa. I was thinking that a way to solve the temp control issue for this room was to add a thermostat device/remote to control temp. But noticed that those seem to be only connected to millivolt valve setups.

A few questions:
Can I change out the standard valve that I have for a millivolt control? Is it worth it?
Can I add a thermostat or remote device to my existing? (I don't see any terminals where I could connect to on the existing control valve)
Or is it more cost effective to do a complete replacement of the fireplace to upgrade controls etc?

Appreciate any thoughts.
Thank you
 
Please post some pix of what you have. If we can see the entire front of the unit & the gas valve
& controls you are talking about, we can probably answer your questions.
Without pix, it's anybody's guess...
 
20141228_162421.jpg 20141228_162421.jpg Thanks for your help. Going to try and do this with my mobile...
 

Attachments

  • 20141228_162421.jpg
    20141228_162421.jpg
    168.2 KB · Views: 136
Not one I'm familiar with. Is there a switch to turn the unit on & off?
If there is, those connection points would be where a t-stat would be hooked up.
Can you post a picture of the pilot assembly?
 
Not one I'm familiar with. Is there a switch to turn the unit on & off?

No switch to turn on or off. The dial that you see has an off position, pilot, and on. The dial I equate is similar to a dial on a gas stove.

If there is, those connection points would be where a t-stat would be hooked up.
Can you post a picture of the pilot assembly?
I removed the plastic cover in the front to see if there was anything but just gears for moving the front dial. Was hoping for some terminals... Just don't see anything.

I will post a picture of the pilot assembly when I it's not on... Lol. I believe it has a thermoplastic or thermocouple which is that copper line you see coming back to the valve. It also has a sparked to ignite the pilot which is that red button you see on the picture posted.

I also don't see any numbers on the valve.

So that dial is what is triggering the fireplace to turn and off based on ambient temperature I would assume.
 
Hard to tell. Looks like a high/low regulator.
Is there a rating plate with the fireplace info located on the floor where the valve is?
 
There is no plate or tags anywhere. Kind of frustrating.

Based on what I am seeing I don't think there is a way to add in a thermostat to this system. Doyou agree?

Can I replace the valve? What would be the rough cost if you know?
 
The only valve you can safely pit into that unit is an identical valve to the one that is in there now.
The unit has not been tested for ANY other valve, & may not be safe with a different one.
It's better to replace the entire unit. You'll get a newer, safer & more efficient unit that will also look more realistic.
Probably not what you want to hear, cost-wise, but that's the way it is, IMHO.
 
The only valve you can safely pit into that unit is an identical valve to the one that is in there now.
The unit has not been tested for ANY other valve, & may not be safe with a different one.
It's better to replace the entire unit. You'll get a newer, safer & more efficient unit that will also look more realistic.
Probably not what you want to hear, cost-wise, but that's the way it is, IMHO.

Yeah. Not exactly what I wanted to hear but it makes sense now that you say it. Was hoping for an easy solution to the problem. I really appreciate your time and input.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DAKSY
Status
Not open for further replies.