Morso elastic white rope in kit

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newatthis

Member
Aug 28, 2014
157
Charlottesville, VA
So, what is this white rope that is in the bag that came with the insert (5660)? I don't think it is a gasket, but don't know what it is! Don't see a reference in the manual. Thanks~
 
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Got pic? Was it there to hold the stove info to the door if it were on display? Perhaps just an extra part, lots of stuff come with extra parts, sometimes they generate themselves, if you take something apart and put it back together, you may get extra parts.... who knows.

Switching from an Oslo to a Morso?
 
We aren't switching, we have both an Oslo, and the Morso. Here's what came with the Morso: P1050649.JPG
 
That, my friend is the secret "Danish ceramic flue connection gasket"
Tuck one end between the stove collar and stovepipe with a screwdriver, pull gently in line with the collar to make the rope thinner as you tuck it in between the collar and pipe. continue until you are around the pipe more than once.
It seals any leak very effectively and stays put. My installer said not to bother sealing as it was not necessary. However when I tried to fine control the air on my Squirrel 1410 the fire went out because of air leaks at the pipe, (Once the leak was bigger than the nearly closed inlet...No air) May not be a problem on larger stoves but a huge difference on mine.
 
Thanks, Squirrel! Now, the stove is installed already, and seems to be working all right. I wouldn't know if there was a problem or not, as a newbie. What happens or doesn't happen with an air leak? Seems like I am getting appropriate changes with the fire when I control the air vent.
 
I have a massive 3/4 cu ft firebox :eek: being sucked on by a very efficient 6" flue (They use 5" in Europe). As installed with leaking pipe joints my stove would either burn fast with the air at least 1/2 open or, at 1/4 open, the fire would go out because the primary air stopped flowing as the leaks and those *%$# secondary air holes let too much air into the flue. I sealed all the joints (which all showed creosote inside where the cold air was entering) and can now run the stove with just enough primary air to keep it healthy. With everything sealed (and the secondary air inlet half blocked ;em) I get a 2 hr+ burn and keep the glass clean as opposed to 45min burns before sealing it all up.
I kind of think that the bigger the stove the less of a problem this would cause but any leak will cool the flue.
 
I'm installing a small Jotul 350 insert and was wondering about sealing the connection. What do you use? The black high temperature sealant available or something else?
 
So, Squirrel, would the best way to know if the seal is all right at this point (after installation) is to see if there is excess creosote at the next chimney cleaning?
 
With a straight run of Ventis double wall I used the magic Danish rope at the bottom, a tube of stove cement on other joints and left the top of the telescoping section free after making sure it was a snug fit. I can take it apart easily to clean and the joints are still sealed.
 
Most people don't bother sealing pipes at all, I've never done it before I got this toy stove for my little house!
 
Primary and secondary air inlets- I keep hearing about these, and don't get it. Is there a thread that explains it?
 
Use the search box at the top of this page to search the forums or the search on the home page to search the site. I'm sure you can find all you need there.
 
Hello newatthis,
I got the same stuff with my Morso 5660, only my gasket was much shorter. Yours looks like it could be long enough to be a baffle gasket. After a year or two of burning, you may find many of the baffle holes blocked with ash, and a vacuum cleaner won't clear them. You could just poke them with an awl or something, but you may want to remove the baffle and get the ash out. When I did this recently for the first time, I found a groove between the baffle and the rear wall of the stove, and 10% of a rope gasket. Not sure if that's normal (my installer was terrible). Anyhow, I bought some rope gasket and installed it when I put things back together. I used the small piece that came with my stove for the flue connection (I had to take the flue collar off for a different problem). The secondaries seem to fire sooner than they used to, but that could just be my imagination.
Meanwhile, I never did find any use for the spring or the oven mitt. Not sure what those are about.
 
I use the oven mitt to put in splits over a redhot coal bed. Takes a few seconds to situate them right and it gets hot in there. I find that poker to short though, I use it in my other smaller stove.

How are your "bricks" holding up?
 
Mass_burner, my bricks have some gouges, despite being careful with the shovel, I thought.

Gazing, I didn't know that baffles had gaskets. I think when spring rolls around, I'm going to try taking out the insert and put in the gasket on the flue. There is a draft problem, I can hear the wind whistle whenever I close the door, and I am thinking the gasket will help. If there is extra rope, I can check out the baffle issue you're describing. Is baffle cleaning a spring chore that is generally done on all stoves?

When I pull out the stove, I'm going to see if the door can be straightened out, it doesn't hang straight now, and has been bugging me since the install.

The spring is from the handle- I don't use it at all. The mitt seems too thin to be very effective, but it looks nice hanging there.
 
New at this

Do you have the synthetic/algae bricks? Is your handle removable?
 
Hi Mass,

The handle is removable- the dealer said that only in the US does Morso make the handle removable, for liability reasons.

As for the bricks, I never heard of synthetic/algae bricks. I take it that you've got synthetic and don't like it? I actually was concerned about the vermiculite in the bricks, due to the possibility of contamination with asbestos, and asked about it before purchasing the Morso. In fact, I posted about my concerns here: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/morso-5660-vermiculite-bricks.130220/ . I wrote to Morso about it, and eventually got a reply, they said their vermiculite was from South Africa, China and Brazil. Who knows if those countries have the same co-contamination issues, but I decided to put my fears aside and trust it was ok. So I assume we didn't get synthetic/algae since Morso didn't mention it in the correspondence, but who knows, and I wouldn't know by looking. Tell us more!?

Here's our bricks:
P1050914.JPG P1050915.JPG
 
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Sorry I've been away from this thread. Mass Burner asked about bricks, so I wanted to respond to that (belatedly though it may be). When I bought the stove, they said to be careful with the bricks, as I'd have to buy a full set just to get one replacement. The bricks that came with it (some kind of fancy vermiculite) were pretty beat up, as if they been used for years in a training demo or something, and the one that goes above the baffle was missing entirely. Anyway, it wasn't long before my back wall brick cracked. I was able to buy a new one, just that brick. The replacement was twice as thick, and I had to modify my bottom bricks with a rasp to make it fit. The next year, my bottom bricks developed thin cracks. This time, the shop wouldn't sell me just the bricks I needed. (rant deleted)

Anyhow, I decided to try burning this winter with the cracked bottom bricks, and see how it goes, and it's been fine. I'll probably install the new ones next fall. The newer, thick back wall brick is holding up great, as are the side and baffle bricks.

By the way, you must have seriously tough skin if that oven mitt works for you in the firebox! Either that or you got the non-flimsy version.
 
I'm not sure I would want a thicker brick, the box seems so small already. And definitely wouldn't want to have to modify things to make it fit.

I never use that mitt, am too lazy, that is why I always have burns on my hands.
 
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