Very noisy new stove

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Happy Slappy

New Member
Dec 31, 2014
4
Northern California
We have been burning wood in a Country Stove for 30 years with no problems. After moving down the hill into a new house we purchased a new Lennox (they bought out Country) free standing Performer. I realize they have made EPA changes in these stoves and the burning may be different. After starting the fire, every 2-3 seconds there is a loud tick or ping noise from the metal heating up. This will last about 20-30 minutes until the stove top is about 450 degrees. Then when there is a bed of coals and I add another piece of wood, the loud ping/tick starts up again and lasts another 10-15 minutes.When the stove starts to cool down the same thing happens. It's so loud, the TV has to be turned up. We called the wood stove store we purchased it from and they said they have never heard of such a thing.
Also, after putting a large seasoned piece of oak in and then damping it down for the night, after about 1 hour the stove flames up as if it isn't damped down. There are no leaks in the door.
 
After about an hour is when alot of stove really start cruising with full secondaries, so that sounds pretty normal. Most all stoves do the pinging and ticking, its a natural thing for non cast metals. Plate steel is "notorious" for this. My stove does it as well but it is by no means loud, in fact its barely noticeable to me.

The sound may dissipate some as the stove breaks in further.
 
Thanks Rambler for the input. I hope the noise dissipates because it seems extremely loud. Our old stove made some noises heating up but nothing like this. The other concern we have is why doesn't it damp down? When damped all the way down, shouldn't the window in the door turn black? It seems like there is air getting in.
 
I have an Osburn 1600 that pings when heating up and when cooling down.
I have become so use to it that I know what it is doing just from the sound.
 
It wont always turn black, the epa stoves dont ever completely shut off the air completely. They allow a certain amount of air in for secondary combustion to take place. Depending on alot of factors, the glass may or may not turn black. It will depend alot on how strong your draft is, so if its really cold out you might not get black glass and a intense fire even with it damped down all the way. Same circumstances but with the weather on the milder side and you may end up with black glass.
 
There is air getting in through the secondary tubes up top. These EPA stoves can't have the air turned off 100% so they will burn cleaner. You can kill the primary but the vacuum draw of the fire will always be able to pull air in through the secondaries to burn the gasses, lower emissions, less black glass, no smoldering fires (if done right)
At least that's my take on things.
 
Before long you will be able to tell how fast and at about what temp your stove is without even looking by just listening to those pings. My Napoleon 1402 does the same thing. You grow to like it because when it starts its cycle and the pings and tinks start happening you have a pretty good hot fire going. Mine really starts making noise once the secondaries start firing off. Hate to see you not enjoy it, but my guess is you will soon not even notice it. That's how we are at least. Enjoy the warmth!
 
I guess it's like living next to the train? Won't noticed after awhile. We had kids growing up with our other stove. Maybe there was so much noise going on we didn't notice all the pings. But I still say something isn't right about this stove. It just seems so much louder.
My brother in law just retired from the EPA. I think I might have a chat with him.
 
If you think something is wrong, ask the dealer to come out and hear it.
 
Mine does it mostly going up in temperature. But some what going down as well. I'd say it dose it more the quicker the temperature changes. I can almost tell the stove temp from it.
 
It sounds like the stove is cooling down to much, Not holding the heat in, is this stove lined with fire brick? what kind of baffle does it have? usually the baffles are either ceramic or steel, the steel normally have an insulation blanket on top. What does the manual say. Also the second part of your post were the oak splits flare up after the air is shut down seem normal, unless its a severe flair up. How strong is your draft? it could be literally sucking the heat out of your stove, I had an issue with my epa stove were the draft was so strong that the stove would cool so fast that I would collect a ton of unburnt coals, I put a key damper in my pipe and it helped amensly, but I knew the draft was strong a head of time, maybe your dealer can look at the setup and offer a 1st hand solution.
 
I loaded the other night before bed, then I guess it seemed like a good idea to rest my eyes for a minute on the couch while I was supposed to be babysitting the stove.
The pinging of a rapidly warming stove snapped me back from dream land in a hurry (and a slight panic at first) and I was able to turn the air down before things got too hot in there.
 
If your stove is on a pedestal you need to put bolts in where the legs mount. I have seen this missed on a few stoves.
 
Also, if your stove is sitting on the hearth twisted (legs not level), it could cause extra pressure on the frame which would cause more stress and more noise.
 
Update. After weeks of pinging and panging, we couldn't stand it any longer, so we had to complain to the dealer. They finally switched out our stove for a floor model. (exact same type) It turned out that there was a crack in the door hinge and when the door was removed,a piece broke off. We don't know if it was broken when we got it or if it broke when we heated the stove.This new stove is also making noise, but not as loud. We are still breaking it in. I just hope it's going to be ok since the serial numbers are very close.
 
We have been burning wood in a Country Stove for 30 years with no problems. After moving down the hill into a new house we purchased a new Lennox (they bought out Country) free standing Performer. I realize they have made EPA changes in these stoves and the burning may be different. After starting the fire, every 2-3 seconds there is a loud tick or ping noise from the metal heating up. This will last about 20-30 minutes until the stove top is about 450 degrees. Then when there is a bed of coals and I add another piece of wood, the loud ping/tick starts up again and lasts another 10-15 minutes.When the stove starts to cool down the same thing happens. It's so loud, the TV has to be turned up. We called the wood stove store we purchased it from and they said they have never heard of such a thing.
Also, after putting a large seasoned piece of oak in and then damping it down for the night, after about 1 hour the stove flames up as if it isn't damped down. There are no leaks in the door.

We have been burning wood in a Country Stove for 30 years with no problems. After moving down the hill into a new house we purchased a new Lennox (they bought out Country) free standing Performer. I realize they have made EPA changes in these stoves and the burning may be different. After starting the fire, every 2-3 seconds there is a loud tick or ping noise from the metal heating up. This will last about 20-30 minutes until the stove top is about 450 degrees. Then when there is a bed of coals and I add another piece of wood, the loud ping/tick starts up again and lasts another 10-15 minutes.When the stove starts to cool down the same thing happens. It's so loud, the TV has to be turned up. We called the wood stove store we purchased it from and they said they have never heard of such a thing.
Also, after putting a large seasoned piece of oak in and then damping it down for the night, after about 1 hour the stove flames up as if it isn't damped down. There are no leaks in the door.

I have I think a similar problem but which I know for sure that the place that my parents bought their woodstove done sold them a defective stove. The first time we used it it over flames and when we went to turn it down all the way the flames did not die down at all. Which had me worried. So we called the installer and I explained to him that it should have killed the fire by turning it all the way down. Another thing is there is not a damper on it and it's only a year old. All our other woodstove had a air control and a damper. But not this one. This only had a air control.

Well back to what I'm saying I told the installer that it didn't kill the fire and that it should have in case of a emergency. And he agreed. So he said he will look at it and try and fix it. Well knowing that he looked and was a tweaker I should of said never mind but didn't. All cuz he said he'd been installing woodstove for over 20 years. So my mom said go ahead. Well it took two different times and 2 different days. Well the second time he fd up the air control to where it was sloppy and took the spring that holds the plate that blocks air from going in or opening it. He seen that the manufacture that built it welded the air control piece in the wrong spot to where it won't close all the way. But after burning it here and there i notice that when it's not I open the door and I hear the glass ponging sounding like it's sinjing. I know it's the glass cuz it's coming straight from the glass. It sounds like a hot car that's been raced hot rodded. It sounds like it's gonna shatter.

This is a Pacific energy that costed well over $3,000 and for how small it is smaller then the one my parents bought at our old house and that costed less. Tells me that this place hustled my parents selling them a defective woodstove. Also what seemed kind of funny is that the place they bought it from bought out the old fire place wood stove place but kept the name of the old woodstove place on the building. And to this day after a year later still don't got their own name on that building. Even if you googled these guys name it don't say that they are at that new location but they sure tell people that's their new building. So the main reason why I'm on here is that ringing and pining sound coming from the glass when I open the door and still does it for a while after I close it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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I have I think a similar problem but which I know for sure that the place that my parents bought their woodstove done sold them a defective stove. The first time we used it it over flames and when we went to turn it down all the way the flames did not die down at all. Which had me worried. So we called the installer and I explained to him that it should have killed the fire by turning it all the way down. Another thing is there is not a damper on it and it's only a year old.

Most new stoves due to epa restrictions / design so they pass epa air quality standards do not have a damper, and are designed so the single air control will not completely turn the air all the way off.
Now I can not say completely that you have a bad stove from the factory but having no control of flames could be from multiple things including a miss weld air control, but others contributing factors could be extremely dry wood, or burning scrap pieces that are thin but have a lot of surface area, strong draft (some people have to block the secondary air inlets on there stoves to have a normal fire)
 
Unfortunately it sounds like it could be the installer that is defective and not the stove. Modern stoves do not close the air down all the way. The stop for the air control was most likely welded in correctly and for a reason. The stop is there to prevent the fire from smoldering. Modern stoves do not have a stove pipe damper, it is not needed unless the flue is unusually tall. If the installer has modified the stove he may have voided the warranty. What is the current status for the air control?

We need a bit more information about the stove installation and the wood. How tall is the flue on the stove from the stove top to the chimney cap? Which model stove is this?

Also, tell us more about the wood that is being burned and how you are running the stove. At what stage is the fire when you open the door and hear the "ringing and pinging"?

Modern stoves do not burn like older pre-EPA stoves. They burn for more complete combustion and clean fires. Run properly they burn cleaner and use less wood because they are much more efficient. However, the burn cycle is different. The normal process for this stove would be to load up some starter wood, say 4 splits in milder weather. Once that gets burning well, turn down the air in stages. First turn it down about half way or until the fire just starts to get lazy. Let it burn that way for 5-10 minutes or until the fire regains strength and is burning robustly again. Then turn it down some more until the flames get lazy. Repeat until the flames stay lazy and start billowing over the top of the wood. The stove top temperature will rise to about 500-600F and will stay that way for a few hours with this small load of fuel. With a full load of wood the fire will last for about 8-10 hrs depending on the stove model and size.
 
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Exactly but you have to rember about dry wood. And by dry it was split and seasoned for awhile 2-3 years at least