Moving my NC30 into the house

I've never moved a NC 30, so take this advice for what you are paying for it: I have looked at the NC 30 and it seemed solidly welded together--I suspect there isn't much to bust. That said, if there is some way to either take the door off or protect the ceramic glass, I would. Also, this may be obvious to you, but removing the fire brick takes off a bunch of weight. The first time I moved a stove, this occurred to me after the move I like using ratchet straps and securing the stove to the dolly--the dolly can give some good places to grab when the stove doesn't. I probably over do it and use 3 ratchet straps--but I've never really wished I hadn't used so many straps. The pain of taking off extra straps is nothing compared to the pain of 400+ lbs coming down on your foot. Good luck and welcome to the site. There is more knowledge here about wood burning than anywhere else!

We moved ours in this fall after we cured the paint outside. To move it we took all the brick out, removed the door and ash pan and then just grabbed it by the top.

Once you remove all that it's not too bad. My 5 foot 100 lb wife was able to help me move it around and put it in place.

Good luck! You'll love your new stove !

Once you take off the door and remove the firebrick, it's fairly manageable. My brother and I carried mine into my house and down the stairs into the basement. I have definitely moved heavier things.

I was able to slide my insert around in the house using a couple of heavy blankets. Just a thought.

I saw a picture somewhere where they put two 2x4s on each side, ratchet strapped together with the stove between them. Then you can each have a good grip with room to walk.

And if you take the bricks out, remember the one without a corner goes back in next to the latch

Personally, I was able to use a rented appliance dolly to roll it up the front two steps and into the living room. And stretch the carpet a bit in the process

It would be better to cure it outside if possible, couple 3' lengths of single wall flue pipe on it and 2 or 3 hot fires will get the bulk of the curing done with out all the smell in the house. even after that there will still be some but not real objectionable- ( course that depends on your/ wife's nose sensitivity). Plus one on using blankets or another piece of carpet or heavy cardboard for sliding around, if crossing carpeted areas some 1/4"/1/2" plywood makes life better. doing a ramp up steps is much easier than bouncing up each step (going to need some 3/4" plywood or a bunch of 2x4's for that). Going down steps same a ramp makes life simpler but add a come-a-long or winch in the mix to keep it in check so you have a controlled descent. Always remove door before moving. Glass is expensive

If you plan on using a dolly make sure it has solid wheels. I borrowed one from work to move my stove and got it halfway from the trailer to the door and then rolled the tire off the rim. I wasn't impressed...

Two people with a crappy dolly *can* move it around, with a wee bit of the luck, but four people with a couple of 2x4's as mentioned above will do a lot to lower the stress level.

I paid the movers/delivery guys 50$ to put mine in the house right next to the current stove. I numbered the bricks before removing them, removed the door and moved it myself onto the hearth.

Many here(myself included) remove the ash plug and replace it with a fire brick. For me it was just an obstacle for ash removal and loading. Your mileage may vary. Every subsequent temp max will give off a little odor as you break it in so use fans and open windows for a bit.

Let er' eat - the stove likes it hot and is very well constructed so little worry about break in fires. In a perfect world get it to around 2-300 - let it cool back to like 150 and run her to 400ish - repeat until you are in the 550+ range. Good to go.

I've read a number of posts recommending break-in fires with specific temp ranges.

How does one target a temp of say, 300 deg?

with a stove top thermometer set in front of the pipe on the upper step. Exact is a misnomer. Get close - 250-350 and so on.

Temps can be controlled with amount of fuel and air in the stove. Small kindling fire with lots of air and a couple small splits with allow you to play with the air and get the temp range you are looking for. As you run the stove and get used to YOUR set up you will have an understanding of how it burns with certain wood, amounts of fuel and air.

Full load in cold weather I get between 6-800 on top depending on the wood species.

All the stove manufacturers of my stoves over the years recommend a couple of smaller break-in fires. Take it easy.

Hoozie said:

I saw a picture somewhere where they put two 2x4s on each side, ratchet strapped together with the stove between them. Then you can each have a good grip with room to walk.

And if you take the bricks out, remember the one without a corner goes back in next to the latch

Personally, I was able to use a rented appliance dolly to roll it up the front two steps and into the living room. And stretch the carpet a bit in the process

Click to expand...

I posted that pick of the wheelbarrow method for moving this stove. The stove is perfect for that and it forces you to lift with your legs. I like dollies for the long, flat, moves but the wheelbarrow for lifts onto the dolly, onto the heath, and even down a few steps. Flights of stairs require more thinking.

Another nod to removing the firebrick and door. Myself and my brother in law lifted my stove up 4 steps and into house with little issue. We had the intent to use some 2x4's as others mentioned, but after unloading the stove we just decided to grab and go. Not as heavy as I thought it would be.