Splitting on concrete floor

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Typ0

Feeling the Heat
Dec 18, 2014
351
Central New York
I want to start splitting wood in my garage. I'm wondering about the constant blows to the concrete...I know I want to split on something my axe can hit without ruining it but there are options for that. I just don't want to ruin the floor in my garage by cracking it up. Do you think it will be OK?
 
Ah, yeah the crete is a lil' rough on the tools. You'll get some good sharpening practice. If you're that precise then go for it. LOL! You can put down some plywood sheets or a good wood bumper just in case.
 
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I doubt it'll hurt the floor. I split my wood on my concrete porch, approx the same thickness as a garage floor. If the concrete is less than a year old, I might wait....
 
Put down a scrap plywood sheet.
 
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I have chipped the concrete pretty good doing this once.
 
If you're talking about splitting on a splitting block resting on a concrete floor.... you'll be fine. If you're talking about splitting directly on the floor... you are going to chip the hell out of the concrete and ruin your splitting tools.
 
well I split my first piece of wood today ... LOL. I have a piece of OSB on the floor now but that's not going to work the axe will go through it. I guess a maul will just bounce off it so perhaps that's what I need. Interesting process. I think I'm going to like it and am hoping it will strengthen my shoulder. Thanks for the input everyone it's appreciated.
 
well I split my first piece of wood today ... LOL. I have a piece of OSB on the floor now but that's not going to work the axe will go through it. I guess a maul will just bounce off it so perhaps that's what I need. Interesting process. I think I'm going to like it and am hoping it will strengthen my shoulder. Thanks for the input everyone it's appreciated.
So place a large in split round on top of OSB then log you are trying to split on round
 
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Thanks! I will try that next.

How about using 2 or 3 old automotive tires stacked on top of each other and the round stood up inside the stack? Maybe use a handful of deck screws at 12,3,6,&9 o'clock on the inside of the second and third tire and screwed into the meeting sidewall below to help hold them together.

If you miss your mark, the tires keep your log rounds upright and are tall enough to catch just below the splitting maul' head to keep it from going down to the garage floor.

Here's a unique splitting maul where the counterweighed head makes splitting faster....

http://www.stumbleupon.com/su/6GqVn2/g@9VvouZ:TgKhrh9O/dornob.com/ingenious-axe-uses-kinetic-energy-to-simplify-woodcutting
 
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Brings back memories of splitting inside a woodshed as a teenager, and catching the ax on a stairway landing at the top of the swing. I wouldn't have thought I could throw myself that far backward that fast. I was OK, but I suspect if it happened again I'd damage some part of me. Check your swing clearances when inside!
 
Your concrete floor is likely 4,000 PSI. It can handle wood being split and constant blows, but sharp edges and crete don't like each other. The rounds soften the direct hits.
 
I split on a concrete driveway. Actually, on an old 24" or so diameter round on the driveway. I wouldn't be able to stand up straight if I split wood with an ax or maul at ground level for very long. If I'm using a wedge & sledge, I put the round on the ground. The lack of "give" from the concrete helps in that instance. I also put the wood on the ground (on a piece of plywood) when using the woodwiz (http://www.woodwiz.com/), but I don't use that very often.

And despite all that, the area of the driveway where I split has a bunch of chipped spots from where I missed with the maul, or the woodwiz, or whatever. It's the only place I really have to split, but if I lived in a more rural area, I would split on natural ground.
 
I've punched a hole in what was probably the only thin spot in a concrete basement floor.
I'd put down a section or two of scrap 3/4 ply if for no other reason than to protect your tools and not chip/flake the floor.
 
In the garage splitting? Perfect place for a $250 5 ton electric log splitter.
 
I totally agree! I'm just getting started and one of the things about the wood is I'm hoping to strengthen my shoulder a bit. How much electricity is that thing going to use anyway? It starts to be pointless of burning wood if you have to up the electric bill LOL...
 
The concrete floors are strong enough, but is it really worth chipping the floor, use some protection like a sheet of ply wood, and a half round on top. My dad splits in the garage and doesn't use any protection, his garage floor looks like the NJ Turnpike.
 
I totally agree! I'm just getting started and one of the things about the wood is I'm hoping to strengthen my shoulder a bit. How much electricity is that thing going to use anyway? It starts to be pointless of burning wood if you have to up the electric bill LOL...
The electric splitters are small units. They run only when the button switch is pushed, they use 110 volts (meaning they plug in to any household outlet). They are electric over hydraulic. Again, they are small with a little footprint, 16" x 48". They will split wood very well, read some of the older threads about electrics. For their price and what they will split, they are a good purchase. I built a wood framed to bring mine up off the floor and place at a good working height.
 
You could get a rubber stall mat from tractor supply. We put them in horse stalls where there is concrete flooring. They hold up great and will be easy to stand on for long periods of time.
+1, that's what I do.
 
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