I have an older model (2005 think) Harmon p38 pellet stove I have owned for 2 years.It has always work fantasticly until last night.I got up at 3 am and the stove was out it must have just gone out then because the top was still very warm to touch.Now the stove is completely dead no auger motor or blowers come on.I visualy checked the fuse and it looks good,I all so checked it with a circuit tester and it was good.If I plug it in to a different outlet with a GFI it trips the GFI. Shouldn't the fuse blow first I did change it anyhow but still the same.When it is plugged into it's normal outlet it does nothing ,and it does not trip the breaker in the breaker panel.Help it is 12 degrees outside and I sure can't afford the propane I am using.
Harmon p38 quit last night it's 12 degree outside, help!
- Thread starter 123bobd
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
- Status
Bioburner
Moderator
No surge suppressor or UPS to save the stoves CB? Cold weather brings out the worst in power supplies
I'm sorry I can't help but I want to say I feel for you. Last year my Englander went out in the middle of the night on the coldest night of the season. I had an auger motor failure and I had to wait to have one sent to me. I hope you get a solution soon.
SidecarFlip
Minister of Fire
No surge suppressor or UPS to save the stoves CB? Cold weather brings out the worst in power supplies
Usually stressed components fail when excessively stressed. Sounds like you'd better fill your propane tank and bundle up. A 15 dollar surge supressor could have saved your bacon..... just say'in.
Defiant
Vermont Castings Geek
Please stop busting my b***s about a surge protector there is one in place on the stoves normal outlet,it came with the stove,but what I do gather is what I was afraid of the overpriced CB.
wil lanfear
Feeling the Heat
I too have a vintage P38 with the analog controller. If the stove is turned on, and the combustion blower doesn't run,you need to determine why it won't run, with a voltmeter measuring the voltage at the combustion motor. If you have 120 volts at the motor, if it doesn't run, the motor is either toast or the motor bearings have seized. If no voltage is measured at the motor, I suspect that the controller is toast but this would be my last resort if it was mine. If you're not comfortable using a voltmeter, maybe a friend could help you.
wil lanfear
Feeling the Heat
The P38 that you have, does it have the analog controller? Do you have the owners manual for your P38 showing the wiring diagram, I don't have one for mine? If you have one, please post the wiring diagram if you can. Thank you.
Bioburner
Moderator
GFI breakers don't like a lot of motors. Some cheaper surge protectors can only take a couple hits and they are toast too I have a rule of thumb for them that they are like smoke detectors and need to be replaced every couple years and like you said it came with the stove. Upgrade board kit I think is about $240. Several here on site have done the conversion. Can use the search feature to find.
I have a rule of thumb for them that they are like smoke detectors and need to be replaced every couple years and like you said it came with the stove. Upgrade board kit I think is about $240. Several here on site have done the conversion. Can use the search feature to find.
Have you tried a different good outlet without the surge protector. Unplug the unit and check the fuse with an Ohm meter if you know how..Sometimes the fuse looks good but blown or just try another one..Does the circuit board smell, like burnt smell..? Or a burnt spot. When you unplug it and plug it back in again does anything happen, like motors run a few seconds? Or if you turn the feed knob all the way to turbo mode, it should run everything for testing..
F4jock
Minister of Fire
GFCI goes first always. That's what you pay it for! The fact that it pops shows current leaking to ground somewhere in the circuit. Can be just miliamps. Replace the fuse. Not sure about whether or not you've tried it in a NON-GFCI circuit but if not do so. Thought you also said no power to the board from the wall? If so get a HEAVY DUTY extension cord and plug it into another circuit to test. Check current from the wall where it comes into the board on the board. Let us know.
Last edited:
alternativeheat
Minister of Fire
GFI Some cheaper surge protectors can only take a couple hits and they are toast too
Hmmm, mine is like ancient history then.. I have a brand new Tripp Lite in the box still, next time I shut down think I'll change it out.
I used a heavy duty extension cord in several other outlets stove is still completely dead.
F4jock
Minister of Fire
If the fuse is OK and you've got no lights on the panel. you've probably fried the board..
GeHmTS
Feeling the Heat
F4jock
Minister of Fire
IF you need a board the best price I found was Woodman's Parts but not your exact model. I did order some stuff and had it within 2 days right at X-Mas. Just a thought. Google your particular model as you may find a better and quicker deal IF needed. Best of Luck! Stuff like this and the current temps sure makes me feel better about having spares lying around.
Do what these guys ask so you can get heat rolling ASAP.
Do what these guys ask so you can get heat rolling ASAP.
SidecarFlip
Minister of Fire
F4jock
Minister of Fire
It might be possible to have the board tested and repaired. There are several services on ebay advertising that but I've never used them. What needs to be determined is what might have caused the failure in case something in the stove took it out.
It is fair to say turn around time is important too this time of the year. Not sure how quick those guys that test and rebuild are but people here has had success with that option.
The culprit or root cause to the problem definitely needs to be tracked down.
The culprit or root cause to the problem definitely needs to be tracked down.
Why sure there is. How about throwing in some frozen and burst pipes with water dripping from your ceiling. It can ALWAYS be worse!Nothing beats a cold azzed stove on a frigid morning.......
Sidecar, you're a jerk but I had to laugh! Still chuckling!
. That was a good one but the OP might not find it as humorous.
Still funny though. Once he gets some heat rolling he'll laugh too.
Last edited:
GeHmTS
Feeling the Heat
Are you getting 120volts at the outlet where it was plugged into the wall? You had the surge protector plugged directly into the wall, and no other extension cord plunged into the surge protector, right?
Did you unplug from outlet and pull the board and check the fuse...?. New board will be a different up graded board kit that takes some time installing.. Unless some one has old stock.. I had my board repaired, took about 2 weeks.. I see there are some dealers near you, you could try calling them for price and stock if you are sure it needs a board..
- Status