Not trying to highjack, it was a normal morning reload decent coal bed maybe 200 stove top. chimney set up 20 ft uninsulated 5.5 in liner in exterior chimney double wall inside. The secondary air control is on the back of the stove the bottom center, it looks like one big square with a divider in the middle, the side toward front of stove is primary with the slider. The side on the back unregulated is the secondary air
Adding firebrick to drolet myraid
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I don't think there is a difference. If anything I think its probably better because the upper portion of the stove where the secondary burn occurs stays hotter. Makes sense to me anyway...
Huntindog1
Minister of Fire
I just counted and its 7 total. I think I just bought a pack of them from menards.
Chuck the Canuck
Feeling the Heat
Thanks, I looked and saw what you were referring to. Good to know where I need to go if I ever have to take action to slow things down....
Chuck the Canuck
Feeling the Heat
Chuck the Canuck
Feeling the Heat
I suppose the whole idea of having only half the box filled with bricks was so that the stove would radiate heat to beat the band.... and I sure like how it throws the heat; I need it right now (calling for -20 Celsius/-4 Fahrenheit tonight)....
Huntindog1
Minister of Fire
right now I show 550ish stove top and 620 on upper area of the sides with a 675 internal flu temp.
Huntindog1
Minister of Fire
Huntindog1
Minister of Fire
The sides are exposed to the firebox since it doesnt have firebricks so the sides a little bit down your reading the heat of the firebox the top is isolated as the baffle manifold is separating the top plate from the fire box.
Huntindog I wonder since you stepped the flue up to eight inch pipe if that could be the reason for the lower pipe temp
Huntindog1
Minister of Fire
If you have higher air flow thru stove like extra draw from the flue pulls more air in as the secondary air is fixed opening. Or leaky door gasket adds more air flow then the heat hets flushed up the flue making it hotter.
Huntindog1
Minister of Fire
smaller pipe I think would have higher velocity , on another note you have 25 foot flue which is pretty tall and could cause a strong draw of the flue especially if your flue is insulated and stays warm the entire length. A pipe Damper may help.
I can when I run mine.
edit: with the air control completely closed you can still hear the stove sucking air, and if you look under the stove on the rear you can see the area on the air intake that remains open even when the control is closed
Huntindog1
Minister of Fire
no, so you must have a strong draw. But I do have some noise if the bypass damper is open and door cracked. Close the bypass and my stove quiets down even with the door still cracked during start ups.
played around last night a little, more primary air = hotter sides above brick/less secondaries and lower stove top temps and vice-verse - which makes complete sense
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