Replacing my Wood Burner with a Refurb Timber Ridge 55-TRP10

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tlhfirelion

Feeling the Heat
Aug 6, 2007
442
Hey folks. Well, I am planning this spring to take out my Lowes bargain basement wood burner and put in a pellet stove. It's been running fine but the search for wood and the increasing cost and mainly the hassle has me tired of dealing with it. I have been researching stoves and found a few suggestions about AMFM energy pricing on the refurbished ones delivered was pretty decent. Not sure if they are ever less than the 799 they are currently?

What I am planning to do is to use an adapter from the pellet stove since my chimney chase on the side of my house has a vent hole in it. I assume I can put the OAK for the pellet stove there since it will pull in air from the outside into the chase, then into the OAK. The current pipe goes up from the stove and elbows back to the wall thimble. It hits a T just inside the chase and then goes straight up 13'. Will this set up work or do I need to tear that whole chase out? Then I wonder if I can sell that triple wall 2100 degree ss pipe?

Regarding the stove mentioned above. I've done a search on here and while most folks state the Timber RIdge stove is a good stove, I see enough commenting that it's not producing enough heat. I have 1500 sq ft total. 1000 sq ft on the main level and 500 down in an insulated stick build home. This stove will be on the main level. I'm questioning wether I need to go bigger. I know the old adage about bigger is better but if it's a 1500 sq ft rated stove and I'm only heating 1000, surely a 2000 sq ft stove is money wasted?

I'm located in Southern Missouri so while not Michigan, It is 12 degrees here today and tonight will be just below 0 so we have our moments. I currently have the small century stove I purchased from Lowes a few years back. I don't know it's BTU's but It can get our little house rather warm with dry wood and our ceiling fan distributes it nicely.

I know I kinda rambled here but I'm trying to get a general feel for what this project will cost and how big of a hassle it will be.

Thanks for any feedback you are able to provide.
 
This stoves BTU rating is 22,400, plan to go bigger if you can ..... 40,000 BTU would be ideal.
 
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I did a little further digging and found other websites selling the Timber Ridge stove rated for 1500 sq ft that says it produces 42,000 btus. I need to find out what my little century wood burner produces but the sticker on the outside is damaged from the heat so it's unreadable.
 
I called AMFM and asked and Andy was who I spoke with. He said they come with a sticker that says 42000 btu. Is that the same as my car MPG sticker saying 40 MPG but only downhill with a tailwind kind of thing? lol
 
I did a little further digging and found other websites selling the Timber Ridge stove rated for 1500 sq ft that says it produces 42,000 btus. I need to find out what my little century wood burner produces but the sticker on the outside is damaged from the heat so it's unreadable.


http://ladbs.org/LADBSWeb/LADBS_Forms/Publications/EPACertidiedStovesInserts.pdf

More up to date list below.

http://www.epa.gov/compliance/resources/publications/monitoring/caa/woodstoves/certifiedwood.pdf
 
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Those square footage ratings are pretty hard to lend good application to, as they just don't factor in enough about the home, the desired temps, exterior temps, pellets, etc, to really be very accurate. I will say that I have a 55-TRPAH from AMFM that I'm very happy with. It's rated for 2,000 sqft. It puts out an honest 25,000 BTUs are so, and keeps my 2,100sqft home a comfortable 70-72*F when it's 25*F, from the finished portion of my basement no less. It runs pretty much flat out to accomplish that, but 1,000 bucks I'm awfully pleased. I would think the TRP-10 might be a little undersized for doing an entire home, I would consider something like the PVDC or the PAH to give you lots of recovery power if you swing the temps down at night and up in the morning. I can't imagine your space needing much more than 25,000-30,000BTUs unless you've got extreme ambient temps, terrible insulating, a very restrictive floor plan, or some combination there-of.
 
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Those square footage ratings are pretty hard to lend good application to, as they just don't factor in enough about the home, the desired temps, exterior temps, pellets, etc, to really be very accurate. I will say that I have a 55-TRPAH from AMFM that I'm very happy with. It's rated for 2,000 sqft. It puts out an honest 25,000 BTUs are so, and keeps my 2,100sqft home a comfortable 70-72*F when it's 25*F, from the finished portion of my basement no less. It runs pretty much flat out to accomplish that, but 1,000 bucks I'm awfully pleased. I would think the TRP-10 might be a little undersized for doing an entire home, I would consider something like the PVDC or the PAH to give you lots of recovery power if you swing the temps down at night and up in the morning. I can't imagine your space needing much more than 25,000-30,000BTUs unless you've got extreme ambient temps, terrible insulating, a very restrictive floor plan, or some combination there-of.


Thanks for the replies guys. My homes layout (main floor) has the stove smack in the middle with the kitchen and bedroom on one side and bedrooms on the other. I have a ceiling fan in the middle of the living room that pushes the heat out to each end. It actually works well as we like the bedrooms to be a little cooler at night but not freezing. I can easily get my living room to 82 degrees with this little wood burner. since I'm only heating 1000 sq ft on the main level I just assumed a 500 sq ft buffer on the smaller timber ridge stove would be enough. Maybe I do need to rethink that. I don't know anything about the PVDC and PAH so I'll need to take a look. Is that the model number?

my second questions would be about my stove pipe connection. Would I be best served connecting to the current stove pipe or just removing it all and using a pellet stove. Is there a market for used triple wall stainless steel chimney pipe?
 
The Timber Ridge 55-TRP10 and 25-PDVC are one and the same stove.

Give the 25-IP a look, it's one of the newer stoves that have just come out in the last year or so. Looks easy to maintain / clean, the side panels open for easy access to all the parts so there is no need to pull the flue or OAK to get to the inner workings. The 25-IP seems to have a good following and not many issues to date so far.
http://www.amfmenergy.com/55epacepest22.html
 
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The Timber Ridge 55-TRP10 and 25-PDVC are one and the same stove.

Give the 25-IP a look, it's one of the newer stoves that have just come out in the last year or so. Looks easy to maintain / clean, the side panels open for easy access to all the parts so there is no need to pull the flue or OAK to get to the inner workings. The 25-IP seems to have a good following and not many issues to date so far.
http://www.amfmenergy.com/55epacepest22.html


The performance is nice, the cosmetics of it is not our style. A bit too contemporary. The 25 PAH is pretty tempting with that 120 lb hopper. The wife would like that. lol It's rated for 2000 sq ft which is double the area I'm heating on the main level.

Is there a special connector for connecting to existing chimney pipe?
 
Go for the next one up. The one in my signature and you won't have problems once you get it calibrated.
 
How many BTU's is the 25- IP? I couldn't find it... I really like that stove

Just over 35,000 BTU if my memory serves me right but it could be pushed to around 40,000 with the right pellets / setup.
 
The performance is nice, the cosmetics of it is not our style. A bit too contemporary. The 25 PAH is pretty tempting with that 120 lb hopper. The wife would like that. lol It's rated for 2000 sq ft which is double the area I'm heating on the main level.

Is there a special connector for connecting to existing chimney pipe?

I like mine quite a bit. 120lb hopper is awesome. 2,000sqft is the rating, but that's probably a stretch goal unless you have the perfect space, and very well insulated. Like I said, mine can keep up with my 2,100sqft home down to about 25*F but after that my propane furnace has to help out a few times a day to keep it 70-72*F inside. It will throttle quite well, if you knock it down to idle output drops to right around 10,000BTU. It's easy to work on if you have to, and it has a thermostat option which was the biggest selling point for me. In my opinion, it's hard to beat that value.
 
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