Which wood stove for LARGE fireplace
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This stuff is relatively new to the market. Preinsulated double wall. Most folks would recommend the insulation wether you install it on the outside or the factory sandwiches it between. I see Osburn wants $249 for the insulation.
http://www.fireplace-chimneystore.com/forever-flex-insulated.html
FWIW my $50 craigslist liner had a large enough id that I used furnace cement to glue a 12" long piece of stainless pipe in the end which fit easily through my damper opening. Just connected with pipes and elbows to that. Didn't need to ovalize the liner like the previous owner.
I would plan on a large block off plate set as low as is reasonable as part of the installation. The big hood is designed to trap smoke. With the stove there it is also going to be a heat trap. You don't want that. Or put a large grille in at the top to release the heat. Another option would be to remove it entirely.
OK, so that Osburn price is damn good. Since my damper flap opening is 5.25", I should be able to trim a bit on the top and bottom to make a round hole for the liner to pass through. Hopefully the flex liner doesn’t add too much outer diameter OD to the 6" flex. I suppose the best route would be to take out the flap, install the flex pipe, and make up two pieces to fill in on either side of the flex pipe, perhaps out of sheet steel and rivet in place?
Excellent point, this is something to really consider.... Some of the brickwork is a bit sloppy behind that metal hood. A large block-off plate may be the best route to take. Opinions appreciated.
I would remove the hood and do something visually nice with the sloppy brickwork repair. Maybe hang some cool metal wall art there?
Are you going to insulate the flex?
Are you going to insulate the flex?
Thanks for all the replies to this thread, I am learning a lot. Please keep ideas/comments coming.
I will have to think about that hood for a while.... it's so substantial and looks nice, would like to find a way to leave it if possible.
When it comes to insulating the flex, I was going to just go with that double layer stuff since it's on sale. My other insert has single thickness flex, uninsulated and works just fine.
BTW, found this thread... the Osburn 2400 was well liked in it. https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/osburn-and-regency-wood-stove-reviews-asap.82216/
I will have to think about that hood for a while.... it's so substantial and looks nice, would like to find a way to leave it if possible.
When it comes to insulating the flex, I was going to just go with that double layer stuff since it's on sale. My other insert has single thickness flex, uninsulated and works just fine.
BTW, found this thread... the Osburn 2400 was well liked in it. https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/osburn-and-regency-wood-stove-reviews-asap.82216/
Just measured my 60" damper. It has a seven inch opening. No wonder the install went so easy for me. Thanks for pointing out my good luck, I would never have known.
The way I see it, leave the fireplace pretty much as is and get Osburns oval liner to fit through your narrow opening or do some demo. As a mason I cringe at the idea of hacking up dampers because replacement is never a good or easy option. But your fireplace doesn't work anyway so be it. Your never going back to the old setup.
You described exactly how my damper block off plate will someday be constructed. Two pieces with half a circle in the middle. I'm planning on using heavier plate so gravity will keep them in place, no rivets. Most dampers have dogs behind the damper plate to keep the plate from moving too far back. That holds one end of each plate. Maybe just one set screw into the plate itself to hold the half circle side from sliding down the damper. That way they can be easily lifted out whenever need be.
Considering using flat wood stove gasket on the plates for a better seal though with the top of the chimney sealed it may not be necessary.
Right now I'm still using sheet metal templates I cut for temporary use. When I install my new stove and liner I'll upgrade the block off plate to heavier steel.
If you factor in the price of insulation and the need to wrap it yourself the preinsulated liner is cheaper than Osburns but let's let that slide.
Your big hood dilemma is an interesting question. Obviously it's a heat trap but just how bad is that? Would'nt trapped heat then be forced to overflow anyway? Yes the heat will eventually be coming out from underneath that hood but at what temp? I don't know. I find it an interesting question.
The fan will help greatly in getting the heat out and away from the stove. The fan just may start a circular pattern of flow that will help pull that air out from under the hood. Don't know. Hey you can always run a snorkel up from the fan into that hood and get preheated air. LOL
You've had some good compliments on that fireplace. It is unique. I personally would begin where you started and assess the situation from there. A block off plate for the hood is no big deal. Tearing it out is a bigger deal. Bottom line it's your tastes that need to be satisfied.
Thanks for the reply Jo. I am not going to remove that hood, the fireplace is the first thing people notice when they come into the room. Good points about the hood... a conventional fireplace fire gets the hood hot, this will be the same thing, just keeping the fire encased in a metal box (wood stove), the fan will bring the bulk of the heat forward and away.
Is the oval liner more difficult the clean, or would it be the same as a round, just use a oval brush instead. Also, how important is insulating the liner? Is the double-ply not enough?
Thanks again,
John
Simonkenton
Minister of Fire
I would be inclined to remove that hood. However, it may not change the heating properties of the stove.
Beau coup hot air will gush upwards from the stove, as it does with any stove. It will hit the hood, some of the hot air will be trapped, but most of the hot air will flow outside the hood, and up to the ceiling.
Imagine you turned the room upside down, and were pouring water into the hood from a 500 gallon tank. Almost all of the water will flow out of the hood and down towards the [upside down] ceiling.
Furthermore, the hood will heat right up, and stay hot, and any cool air in the room will be drawn up towards it, and get heated up, and go on up to the ceiling.
Beau coup hot air will gush upwards from the stove, as it does with any stove. It will hit the hood, some of the hot air will be trapped, but most of the hot air will flow outside the hood, and up to the ceiling.
Imagine you turned the room upside down, and were pouring water into the hood from a 500 gallon tank. Almost all of the water will flow out of the hood and down towards the [upside down] ceiling.
Furthermore, the hood will heat right up, and stay hot, and any cool air in the room will be drawn up towards it, and get heated up, and go on up to the ceiling.
Insulated liners perform better and safer. Do it. Plan on cutting out a section of the damper to avoid ovalizing. It will make the install more straight forward, cleaning easier and better and draft better.
Sons924
Burning Hunk
- Mar 7, 2013
- 243
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200578244_200578244
that would be my choice for that space. How can you go wrong for a grand?
that would be my choice for that space. How can you go wrong for a grand?
What about the Regency F5100 - it's pretty big and should throw a ton of heat.
http://www.regency-fire.com/Products/Wood/Wood-Stoves/F5100.aspx
http://www.regency-fire.com/Products/Wood/Wood-Stoves/F5100.aspx
Good for the hood. A wise and economical decision. I have a rather unique home myself, if it's different I like it.
Women go GaGa for unusual things too
willing to wager you know what I'm talking about. Anyhow,,,,,,Never thought about cleaning an oval liner. Never knew they existed until I perused your link. As I said this is one of those rare instances where as a mason I will not object to that damper assembly being permanently altered. That choice comes down to you. Is resale price an issue to consider? The ability to market it in both original form and as a woodstove hookup could be something to consider. Yes we know it doesn't work but did anyone tell you that when you bought the house? If you bought it secondhand that is. Is the rest of the house so impressive that fireplace being altered is insignificant or is it major focal point?
Back to the liner. I'm the wrong person to be asking. My first year with any liner,un insulated but so far so good. Others report problems with blockage even with insulated. My next liner will be insulated because the last thing I want to do is climb on the roof to clean a chimney liner in the middle of winter.
I have a wood furnace in the basement using an 8x12 masonry flue and I haven't run a brush down that since 1994. Not looking to make chimney sweepimg a major habit.
Tempting, and includes the blower. It's a N-S loader so it's only 24" wide. I think the 30" wide one (Osburn 2400) will help fill the space better, though it is double the price.
From what I understand the Osburn is reguarded as a better brand compared to the Vogelzang, but twice as better? I do like the wider Osburn, and larger viewing area.
If you like the Osburn take a look at the Enerzone 3.4 too. It's also made by SBI. The 3.4 is almost as wide as the Osburn, but has greater depth. You will appreciate having the flexibility of loading E/W or N/S.It's a big heater, but still takes a 6" flue.
http://enerzone-intl.com/en/heaters/solution-34
http://enerzone-intl.com/en/heaters/solution-34
Good for the hood. A wise and economical decision. I have a rather unique home myself, if it's different I like it.
Women go GaGa for unusual things too
As I said this is one of those rare instances where as a mason I will not object to that damper assembly being permanently altered. That choice comes down to you. Is resale price an issue to consider? The ability to market it in both original form and as a woodstove hookup could be something to consider.
Back to the liner. I'm the wrong person to be asking. My first year with any liner,un insulated but so far so good. Others report problems with blockage even with insulated.
Thank god women like unusual things... unusual sums me up pretty well.
When it comes to the damper, there appears to be enough room on the top and bottom of the flap to cut out allowing for the round flue, if ever selling one day I could weld the piece back in, spray flat black on it and no one would ever know.
Ah... I never knew that insulated liners resulted in less build-up. I brush the 6" stainless flex liner on my Napoleon 1401 liner a couple times a year, get about a half gallon of black stuff raining down into the stove, which reminds me, I have to clean out that rail thing in the middle with the holes, probably all crapped up.
Thanks for the link. I like the cleaner lines of the Osburn and the door is better suited for my south-paw.
So decision made it sounds like. It's a good choice. Time to get the stove.
PS: the Osburn 2400 is a N/S loader too. The firebox is 19.375" deep and 13.5" tall, though you will not load that high.
PS: the Osburn 2400 is a N/S loader too. The firebox is 19.375" deep and 13.5" tall, though you will not load that high.
Thank god women like unusual things... unusual sums me up pretty well.
When it comes to the damper, there appears to be enough room on the top and bottom of the flap to cut out allowing for the round flue, if ever selling one day I could weld the piece back in, spray flat black on it and no one would ever know.
Ah... I never knew that insulated liners resulted in less build-up. I brush the 6" stainless flex liner on my Napoleon 1401 liner a couple times a year, get about a half gallon of black stuff raining down into the stove, which reminds me, I have to clean out that rail thing in the middle with the holes, probably all crapped up.
Ok, but dampers are made of cast iron. You had better be a darn good welder
Great! What do you think about the flex tube "sale" on the site that I posted?
http://www.osburnwoodstoves.com/Osburn_2400_Osburn_Stove_Osburn_Wood_Stove_p/obo2411.htm
Round or oval?
Also, weighing ordering online, local seller who has them shipped from upstate will be extra $150 or so tax. Looks like his price is the lowest they are selling for. I did see past posts here about free blower inventive, not sure if anything is going on right now.
UPDATE:
The Osburn 2400 arrived mid Feb, removed firebricks and wheeled it in with the help of a friend and hand-truck. Laid bricks in the fireplace hearth to level it out, and set it in place. It looks great, everyone has commented about how well it fits in the opening as well as matches the black hood.
This stove tends to burn hotter than my Napoleon 1401, damper is usually on lower to mid setting... easily warms the whole downstairs. Sweeping the ashes down the hole into the ash drawer is so convenient.
I have yet to cut some metal to fit on either side of the liner where it passes through the damper opening. Top of chimney has a 18x18 hat over the clay flue.
Thanks for all the help, very happy with this stove!
Pics:
The Osburn 2400 arrived mid Feb, removed firebricks and wheeled it in with the help of a friend and hand-truck. Laid bricks in the fireplace hearth to level it out, and set it in place. It looks great, everyone has commented about how well it fits in the opening as well as matches the black hood.
This stove tends to burn hotter than my Napoleon 1401, damper is usually on lower to mid setting... easily warms the whole downstairs. Sweeping the ashes down the hole into the ash drawer is so convenient.
I have yet to cut some metal to fit on either side of the liner where it passes through the damper opening. Top of chimney has a 18x18 hat over the clay flue.
Thanks for all the help, very happy with this stove!
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