I put a Jotul F500 oslo in our basement. It's a 1920's craftsman bungalow and the basement is unfinished. The windows are new and the bulkead has insulation on the inside. After about 6-8 hours of burning it only raises the temp about 5 degrees. I'm new at burning and put a temp gauge on about 18'' above the elbow off the back of the stove. From the searches I've done the draft seems to be working fime. The stove lights with no problem and we just had a stainless liner put in before we fired it up. The stove was brand new to. The other odd thing I noticed there isn't any smoke at all coming from the chimney. I did read this is normal for some stoves. I see some chimneys smoking like power plants so I assumed ours would to. The wood was on the ground for a yearor two in log length and I split it up at the end of may. I hear this stove tends to be picky with wood. Is it the foundation sucking up all my heat?
Wood stove in basement?
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claydogg84
Minister of Fire
The problem is almost certainly the location. Basement installs are tough. The Oslo uses secondary combustion to burn the off gassing (smoke) which should create a nearly smokeless stack. Are you using a stovetop thermometer? If you're running the stove at correct temps and it's not cutting it, you may want to look into moving the stove upstairs.
I can comment on the temperature rise, others who are familiar with the stove can help with it, EVERYONE will question the wood. I heat from the basement, with a fairly large stove. It takes quite a while to warm up everything downstairs to the point I can move heat reliably upstairs. It takes a full 24 hours before I don't see big swings in temps anymore, after that I hover between 75 and 80 downstairs, I see a big difference in the amount the furnace runs upstairs after that time. I doubt I could raise the temp upstairs 5 degrees in 24 hours, but I do help maintain it. Realistically if you want the stove to heat the upstairs, move it up there. I use my basement a lot and would be heating it somehow so for me its just grand that it helps out upstairs. I am going to play with a powered duct (if it ever arrives) and see if I can do better but for now I am fine. Good luck, be prepared for your wood quality to be questioned thoroughly (its always the wood 
)
Jason
)Jason
LOL ok I thought laying on the ground for a year or two and having it cut and split for 6 months would be fine. Im not looking to heat the upstais as in 2nd floor but a war floor on the 1st floor would be nice.I can comment on the temperature rise, others who are familiar with the stove can help with it, EVERYONE will question the wood. I heat from the basement, with a fairly large stove. It takes quite a while to warm up everything downstairs to the point I can move heat reliably upstairs. It takes a full 24 hours before I don't see big swings in temps anymore, after that I hover between 75 and 80 downstairs, I see a big difference in the amount the furnace runs upstairs after that time. I doubt I could raise the temp upstairs 5 degrees in 24 hours, but I do help maintain it. Realistically if you want the stove to heat the upstairs, move it up there. I use my basement a lot and would be heating it somehow so for me its just grand that it helps out upstairs. I am going to play with a powered duct (if it ever arrives) and see if I can do better but for now I am fine. Good luck, be prepared for your wood quality to be questioned thoroughly (its always the wood
Jason
Yeah, it used to be! These new stoves can be picky but no smoke no worries? You will definately have a warmer floor- I used to burn a kerosene heater down here and was able to achieve that. Good luck moving heat is tough but it can be done, remember that its easier to push cold air than hot air-- density and stuff..
Jason
Bad LP
Minister of Fire
If your interior walls are not insulated all that concrete is acting like a sponge to the heat. My outside walls were done with 2" before backfilling. I have an old (1979) Pro-Former Model Z (non airtight) in my basement that is about 1250 sqft. It would take over 24 hours to get it from 58-60 to the very low 70's with it sucking up a very large volume of wood. Added 2" to the inside walls from the floor right up to the joists (10 ' walls) and within 8 hours it gets to 80 down there. It helps a great deal when I turn on my air filter for wood dust.
It was 80 down there last Thursday night with it being -15 outside in just over 7 hours. Stack temp was on the higher end of the scale but not over firing. NO. I won't get over 4 hours of good burn time and it burned just about 3 wheel barrow loads of wood doing it.
But WTH!! The LP wasn't getting burned.
It was 80 down there last Thursday night with it being -15 outside in just over 7 hours. Stack temp was on the higher end of the scale but not over firing. NO. I won't get over 4 hours of good burn time and it burned just about 3 wheel barrow loads of wood doing it.
But WTH!! The LP wasn't getting burned.If your interior walls are not insulated all that concrete is acting like a sponge to the heat. My outside walls were done with 2" before backfilling. I have an old (1979) Pro-Former Model Z (non airtight) in my basement that is about 1250 sqft. It would take over 24 hours to get it from 58-60 to the very low 70's with it sucking up a very large volume of wood. Added 2" to the inside walls from the floor right up to the joists (10 ' walls) and within 8 hours it gets to 80 down there. It helps a great deal when I turn on my air filter for wood dust.
It was 80 down there last Thursday night with it being -15 outside in just over 7 hours. Stack temp was on the higher end of the scale but not over firing. NO. I won't get over 4 hours of good burn time and it burned just about 3 wheel barrow loads of wood doing it.
Yes just bare concrete. I'm always looking for an excuse to rent a mini excavator so this might be on the to do list now if it helps that much.I guess i need to season wood longer to. Im gonna buy some kiln dried bundled as an experiment.
claydogg84
Minister of Fire
CenterTree
Minister of Fire
OP: You didn't mention the sq.ft. of your basement.
Also, what type of wood is it that you are burning?
If you split it just this past MAY, it might not be fully seasoned yet if it is a hardwood....but it might be OKAY if it is ash or maple. (see it IS always the wood...jk)
But, since you said your stack is NOT smoking much then THAT is a GOOD sign.
Definitely try some BioBricks or similar, just to rule out the wood issue.
I think your biggest "problem" is the lack of insulation for sure.
And you may not even need that excavator either, if you can insulate from the inside. Even 2 inches of XPS foam board would help a LOT.
Also, what type of wood is it that you are burning?
If you split it just this past MAY, it might not be fully seasoned yet if it is a hardwood....but it might be OKAY if it is ash or maple. (see it IS always the wood...jk)
But, since you said your stack is NOT smoking much then THAT is a GOOD sign.
Definitely try some BioBricks or similar, just to rule out the wood issue.
I think your biggest "problem" is the lack of insulation for sure.
And you may not even need that excavator either, if you can insulate from the inside. Even 2 inches of XPS foam board would help a LOT.
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CenterTree
Minister of Fire
Putting foam board up is definitely the way to go. Unless you just realllly want to rent that excavator!
Good place to keep your BEER.
Funny you should mention that
I have plans for that room. It's gonna be called the 'dungeon' for my insolent kids.
Thanks for the in put guys. We bought the stove for the first floor. Then we started having babies and the wife didnt want a hot stove with toddlers. The wood came off my property and its a mix but mostly oak. Some ash, maple and a lil birch.Funny you should mention that
I have plans for that room. It's gonna be called the 'dungeon' for my insolent kids.
I do have a temp gauge placed on the pipe going to the chimney. about 18'' above the stove. Its been a staedy 500 degree for a few hours. Its only about 1 degree warmer in the basement. This burning wood thing is like a full time job lol
claydogg84
Minister of Fire
Dix
Minister of Fire
Reinstall in former location, put up a semi permanent kid/pet proof gate( doubles as a mitten/ sock/ laundry dryer
! ), and teach the kids "NO !! Hot" ?
mol1jb
Feeling the Heat
I too heat from the basement. Last year I had bare cement block walls. I learned quickly that running the stove in that atmosphere was almost a waste of time. After I insulated the walls, my stove produced much better results.
Mo Par
Member
I have my Grandma Bear in a finished basement. It heats the whole house just fine. I'ts 9 outside, the basement is 78 deg and upstairs is around 75 deg. I leave the basement door open and have a vent in the floor.
loudmustang
New Member
I hadn't thought of foam board, foil side out to reflect the heat I presume? I have an earth stove 300 series in my basement. It takes at least 24 hours before I even begin heating the upstairs. Once this period is past though hot air rolls upstairs nicely. I have the basement sealed relatively well. When outside temps are above 30f I can keep the upstairs between 72 and 80. Below 30f it stays 63-72f. This past week was 3f and windy, never got below 62 upstairs. Stove top temps are between 400-650. My wood is way past its prime and it takes a lot to keep it going like that. This is my first season burning so it's been fun learning the stove that lives up to its smoke dragon status.
weatherguy
Minister of Fire
The wood really doesn't start drying until its split, oak takes 2-3 years normally, actually 3 in our climate depending on how thick your splits are. Try to get some ash and soft maple and get it split soon for next year. My friend had the same problem as you, we ended up putting foam insulation on his walls but we spent a lot of time down there playing ping pong and what not, if you don't use your basement move the stove.
I have a wood stove in my basement too but it's not hooked up. The reason? I spent the money on insulation. Did quite a bit of research and, as much as I like cutting and splitting, I don't want to heat the outside. I glued and screwed 2" foam to the interior concrete walls and I'm going to stud a wall down there. I think you can use the foil faced stuff too and I believe with that stuff you don't have to cover it with drywall.
Ram 1500 with an axe...
Minister of Fire
I could put 2 stoves in my basement and I probably couldn't heat my house with them.....location and layout needs to be thought out.....
Charles1981
Minister of Fire
I heat a 1100 sq foot basement and 1100sq foot first floor with a wood stove in the basement.
The basement is finished and insulated 75% but the floor is bare cement in most places still.
Always about 75-80 in the basement. Upstairs it easily stays 68-70 on a day like today with a high of 28F.
But its back to negative F degrees at night for the next week which only gets to about 65-66 upstairs.
1) finished walls and floor are key (I just haven't gotten around to installing the vapor barrier, insulation layer, and laminate flooring) but it is in the works.
2) stove location is key (a stove in the corner of the basement isn't going to heat as well as a stove in the middle of the basement with a central chimney)
3) air flow upstairs is key (a staircase you can't get adequate air flow upwards with means all the heat stays downstairs).
So I have a mostly finished basement. The stove and chimney are dead center in my house, and I have a spiral staircase with a ceiling fan directly above it blowing upstairs cooler air down to the basement. I also have floor registers cut into the floor above the stove (not to code, but they were already there when we purchased the house). I get awesome air flow upstairs and consider my setup ideal for heating from a basement. I would find it difficult however to heat this house with a more typical basement with a enclosed staircase especially if the stair case was not central to the house either.
I feel these are 3 reasons why heating from a basement usually don't work out that well.
The basement is finished and insulated 75% but the floor is bare cement in most places still.
Always about 75-80 in the basement. Upstairs it easily stays 68-70 on a day like today with a high of 28F.
But its back to negative F degrees at night for the next week which only gets to about 65-66 upstairs.
1) finished walls and floor are key (I just haven't gotten around to installing the vapor barrier, insulation layer, and laminate flooring) but it is in the works.
2) stove location is key (a stove in the corner of the basement isn't going to heat as well as a stove in the middle of the basement with a central chimney)
3) air flow upstairs is key (a staircase you can't get adequate air flow upwards with means all the heat stays downstairs).
So I have a mostly finished basement. The stove and chimney are dead center in my house, and I have a spiral staircase with a ceiling fan directly above it blowing upstairs cooler air down to the basement. I also have floor registers cut into the floor above the stove (not to code, but they were already there when we purchased the house). I get awesome air flow upstairs and consider my setup ideal for heating from a basement. I would find it difficult however to heat this house with a more typical basement with a enclosed staircase especially if the stair case was not central to the house either.
I feel these are 3 reasons why heating from a basement usually don't work out that well.
You need some positive pressure in the house to get the heat up stairs. I fed a 4" pipe to the back of the stove, the fans suck up the cold air and blow it over the stove. (The fans create a negative pressure behind the heater)
The trick for me is to force warm air out of my home opposed to sucking cold air in.
I know when the pressure is equal or positive vs negative by simply holding my hand under the intake.
The trick for me is to force warm air out of my home opposed to sucking cold air in.
I know when the pressure is equal or positive vs negative by simply holding my hand under the intake.
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