The Philosophy of Heating Large or Drafty Homes

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Ashful

Minister of Fire
Mar 7, 2012
19,974
Philadelphia
I have seen several posts recently, of new folks suffering through the same course I did three or four years ago. Trying to heat a large or drafty space with a single woodstove, in cold weather.

I moved into a house with a single wood stove at one end, and a gas fireplace at the other end. Un-insulated stone house with various additions totaling 6660 sq.ft., with lots of original windows and doors built in 1773, heated primarily by oil fired boiler.

After allowing my wife to convince me to give this Jotul Firelight 12 that came with the house a try, rather than just rip it out and have a nice open fireplace, I was very quickly hooked. I found this forum, and read about people keeping their house heated with a single (much smaller) stove, on 6 cu.ft. of wood per day. I set about keeping that sole Jotul cooking all day and night for a few weeks, and very quickly learned you're not going to make much of a dent in a heating bill such as ours with a single stove, no matter how large that stove may be.

I installed a second Jotul F12 in place of the gas fireplace part way into my second season, and went all out in my efforts to keep the boiler from running. I was chewing thru wood, albeit a mix of walnut and poplar, at a rate of a cord every 8 - 10 days in cold weather. Our house was still cold, and my wife was getting very grumpy, between the enormous time I was spending on wood processing (ever try to get 3 years ahead when you're burning a cord every 10 days?!?) and the constantly cold house.

Things have been done, within the limits of historical correctness, to tighten up this house and make it a bit more efficient. However, that's a long road, and this will never be a super-insulated house. A change in attitude toward woodburning was necessary, if I was going to maintain my sanity.

One of the mod's (I wish I could remember which) once said something to the effect of, "as long as the stove is running, you're still adding BTU's to the envelope," and that was the key for me. I re-programmed all of my thermostats (we have numerous zones on multiple heating systems) to just put the various parts of the house at the temperatures we want them, regardless of whether I have the stoves going or not.

Now, rather than me killing myself, and my wife being upset that she's cold, it is just my personal little game to keep the stoves going as much as I can. If she gets home from work before me, the house is warm... I load the stove when I get home. As long as I keep the stoves loaded 2x per day, they're constantly adding BTU's to the house, and reducing the slack the boiler must pick up. I'm back to enjoying woodburning at a much more sane rate (not a cord every 8 days), our house is warm, and I'm still saving over $3500 per year in oil.

Let this be (hopefully) good advice to all the guys I've seen posting on here recently, trying to heat similarly large spaces, or poorly insulated houses.
 
You have a 6,600 sq foot house, built in 1773. Do you mean to say that the walls are solid stone? You are in Philadelphia. Did Redcoats live there during the Revolution, or what? Must be some great history with that house.

But, if the walls are solid stone, you have an R factor of about zero. Up there in that northern climate, I don't see how you could heat the house even with 2 big wood stoves, that stone will transmit that cold temp right into the house.

What a giant house. Was it orginally built as a single family home? Are you in the city, or are you out in the countryside?
 
I do that in canada it's a constant battle to keep warm !!! check avatar
 
This may not help much, but I've heated without an Outside Air Kit for over a dozen years and then about five with one. What I noticed is that the rooms far from the stove were much colder than they are now. On the non OAK setup, outside air squeezes through floor cracks and outer walls, so distant rooms got the double whammy. At 10 cfm combustion, nearly one full household worth's of cold air comes in each day. On the downside, I like dry air, humidity with the OAK is much higher.

My stove, a PE Summit pedestal, takes its air from below. For the first half hour or more after a cold startup, the base is very cold to the touch.
 
Simon, yes walls are 18" thick mud-stacked stone. Construction of main part of this house started in 1773, completed 1779, so likely no redcoats living here. It seems one corner of house may have been part of an older house.

I'm in the countryside just outside Philadelphia. The 1773 part of the house is something like 4400 sq ft, the rest is from 240 years of additions. Always a single family home, built by a farmer, who by drawing of lots, became a Mennonite minister. He was third generation, and his father and brothers houses are similar., so I guess they had some money.

But, this thread was about heating philosophy for those suffering energy hog houses, not the house itself! I like the OAK recommendation.
 
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Completed in 1779, I think the British were still running the show in that year. Might have been a few Redcoats quartered in you house.
That is a fascinating story of your house.
 
This may not help much, but I've heated without an Outside Air Kit for over a dozen years and then about five with one. What I noticed is that the rooms far from the stove were much colder than they are now. On the non OAK setup, outside air squeezes through floor cracks and outer walls, so distant rooms got the double whammy. At 10 cfm combustion, nearly one full household worth's of cold air comes in each day. On the downside, I like dry air, humidity with the OAK is much higher..

I have toyed with the idea of adding a OAK for years but still haven't done it. It seems like there's so much conflicting opinion on them. I'm also in a drafty old farmhouse and the rooms opposite the stove do stay much cooler, so if you think an OAK may help with that, I'm very interested.

A hundred years ago this house was uninsulated and heated with 1 or 2 'space heating' stoves with I'm sure minimally seasoned wood. Oh and the two-seated crapper was (still is, but we do have indoor plumbing now) about a 60 yard walk. I'm sure the occupants then had no expectations about keeping the whole house at 70 degrees. I'm ok with the furnace coming on rarely, but I try to have realistic expectations, too. Besides, I truly don't mind sleeping in a bedroom that gets into the mid 50s on the coldest few nights of the year.

A change in attitude toward woodburning was necessary, if I was going to maintain my sanity.
Amen, Joful, & a change in expectations can help, too.
 
So your advice is to give up and fall back on the furnace when it gets too hard? Sure, folks use wood heat for most of their heat, some of their heat, as a supplement, or for recreation but if you want to heat 100% with wood then it is possible with the right equipment and enough effort. Some folks don't have the luxury of a furnace or the money for fuel.

I suppose you could just operate on the idea that every log burned represents a fuel savings of x pennies. I prefer the approach that I heat with wood and if I fail then there is a monetary punishment.
 
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I think of my self as a very successful supplemental burner.

If I tried to heat my suburban box home entirely with wood I would have to change my install significantly, burn a lot more wood, and might not achieve a passing grade every winter.

It is indeed all about getting BTUs into the envelope.

Good thread.
 
Last nite, I let the fire burn down to coals before leaving for my sons practice, I came home 2 hours and 15 minutes later, the same room lost 8 degrees, I struggle the same way in this bitter cold, I have many single pane windows and no insulation in this room. When I got home I turned on the oil heat, cranked up the insert and got it back to temp for the rest of the night..... The insert does a great job of maintaining when you keep it fed.....
 
So your advice is to give up and fall back on the furnace when it gets too hard?
I don't think I'd call keeping two 3 cu ft stoves running 24/7 "giving up," when those two stoves cannot keep up with the losses of the house.

Some folks don't have the luxury of a furnace or the money for fuel.
I sure hope those folks have the good common sense to not try living in such a large house.

I suppose you could just operate on the idea that every log burned represents a fuel savings of x pennies.
That's the idea!

I prefer the approach that I heat with wood and if I fail then there is a monetary punishment.
Tried that. I suspect if you ever ripped thru a cord of wood in 8 days, and still couldn't keep the house over 67F, you'd come around. [emoji14]
 
I like this thread.
I think exactly this way while burning in weather like we had last week.
Cheers
 
it's like beating a dead horse you get it to were you can live comfi as possible and live with it or go nuts !!!;lol i'm looking at about 15 to 20 cords a winter c'est la vie
 
it's like beating a dead horse you get it to were you can live comfi as possible and live with it or go nuts !!!;lol i'm looking at about 15 to 20 cords a winter c'est la vie
Holy cow! How could you possibly get 20 cords thru one little stove in a year? I mean, it doesn't matter how cold it is, that Roby Ultimate doesn't look large enough to chew thru that volume of wood in that period of time! 20 full cords is OWB territory.
 
Holy cow! How could you possibly get 20 cords thru one little stove in a year? I mean, it doesn't matter how cold it is, that Roby Ultimate doesn't look large enough to chew thru that volume of wood in that period of time! 20 full cords is OWB territory.

He might be talking face cords.
 
I'm okay with the boiler coming on once or twice a day, I figure I've reduced the amount it would have fun by at least 75%. A cycle before we get up in the morning and before anyone gets home in the evening during these colder temps helps even out the temps in the house. My next step is to get a strategically placed fan or two running to help with that when I've got the stove cranking. I'm trying not to obsess on this wood burning thing, but that's not easy for me. ;em
 
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5 face cords =21/2 full cords 6 weeks finished I do start heating in begining of oct ,n/s loading this stove takes a lot of wood e/w doesn't burn well. 600sqft of milk?
 
5 face cords =21/2 full cords 6 weeks finished I do start heating in begining of oct ,n/s loading this stove takes a lot of wood e/w doesn't burn well. 600sqft of milk?
Brad sounds like you have a cow in the fridge!!
 
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5 face cords =21/2 full cords 6 weeks finished I do start heating in begining of oct ,n/s loading this stove takes a lot of wood e/w doesn't burn well. 600sqft of milk?
There are 3 face cords to a real cord. 6 face cords = 2 full cords.
 
It depends on the length of the splits. A face cord is 4' x 8' x whatever. It's a unit of area, not volume. My face cords are 0.42 cord.
 
True that. I was assuming the standard 16" cut which is what is sold here.
 
ours are 18" on average 4x8x18 cord here so I figure 2 make's full cord?
 
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