Problems with Keystone Catalytic

Just moved into a new home (older log cabin kit) with a keystone woodburner. I've been reading the forums with testimonies of owners having very long burn times. Not so for me. No doubt I'm doing something wrong. I recently replaced a broken ceramic catalytic with a new all metal one from the woodstock stove company. I start the fire slowly bringing it up to catalytic temperatures. Then load it with 3 beefy oak splits. I let them catch fire for a few minutes then engage the catalytic and close the draft to 0. Yes, I still see flames at the 0 setting.

The burn time is approx 2 hours before the stove needs to be reloaded.

Sometimes I'll load one log at a time and the single log burns for 1 hour or so.

I'm having a selkirk superpro class A chimney installed in a week or so. Currently I have an uninsulated flex line going to the stove. The setup I have now may be affecting things, so I may be premature in asking for advice. But, I just can't see this stove running for 8-10 hours as many have stated. Overnight burns seem like an impossibility.

I'm a bit frustrated since I seem to be doing things correctly. It's very cold here,(yesterdays temp. -2F with an inside temperature of 40 degrees.) Brrrrrrr. Been running space heaters and racking up quite the electric bill.

In closing, the woodstock stove company has excellent customer service, and I believe they make a very high quality stove. This post is nothing against their fine product.

What AM I doing wrong! Thank you -

I think the stove is approx 10 years old. How would I determine if the stove is leaking? The previous owner was pretty rough on things. When the chimney sweep inspected it he noticed the grate was cracked. I'm inclined to believe the previous owner overfired the stove as well. Neighbors told me
he would cut trees as needed which means he was burning green wood. As far as leaks go, I don't see any smoke exiting the stove into the house. Thanks for the replies! I would like to "renovate"/fix the stove so it operates properly but, I'm a complete novice in this area.

valuman said:

Have you downloaded the owners' manual for your stove from Woodstock's website? Reading through that might help you to better understand the parts of your stove and also explain how to check for a good seal on the door. I'm guessing the ash pan could be another potential source of air leaking into that model as well.
Try looking here: http://www.woodstove.com/support

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Thanks for all the replies thus far! I've read the manual a number of times. The door has a new gasket but I wouldn't call it a snug fit when closed. Not sure what to say about the ash-pan. If a small amount of air gets through the door would that seriously impact burn times?
I'm sure I can seal the door better by tightening that mechanism.

I've sent an email to the woodstock company. What a great bunch of people! But, I also wanted to get advice from members on this forum. The more information the better!

weatherguy said:

Yes, a little air getting sucked in will greatly cut down on burn times, you wouldn't see smoke in the house because it would be drawing air in. Did you do the dollar bill test on your door seal?

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Well, I think you guys may have hit on a solution. The door isn't as tightly sealed as it should be. I'm off to find an allen wrench to tighten things up. There could be additional issues, but I can at least address this one. Will fix the door, burn some more wood and update.
THANKS!!

Tightened the door handle snugging the gasket closer to the stove housing. Flames look different and it appears that less oxygen is entering the burn chamber. Still not getting the long burn times though. I read the manual more carefully and will need to check the ash pan seal and catalytic seals.
Still, I'm very appreciative of this forum and those that responded to my post. As I work this thing out, I'll update. Thanks again, guys.

Dakotas Dad said:

Once you know the stove is sealed good, part of the "long burn times" revolves around FILLING the stove.. the amount of wood in the firebox is like a gas tank on a car.. You go farthest between refuels if you start with a full tank..

When the stove is cold, do a "dollar bill" test, and with it running, do an incense test.

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Thanks for the advice. I didn't know about the incense test so I looked it up on the Forums. Sounds like a great way to check for leaks. Will also fill the firebox when things are back to normal. Even though the stove probably has a bad gasket somewhere, she still does a fine job heating the house. I like this stove even though its got a few issues. (Due to neglect) Can't wait to see what it's capable of when fixed!

Thanks for the reply -

Woody Stover said:

How tall is your stack, and is there a liner all the way to the top? You shouldn't have flame in the box when the air is cut all the way; Air is getting into the stove. It's possible you have warped part if the stove was over-fired. I'm not sure how much it would be to send or take the stove to the factory for a total rebuild, but then the stove would be perfect. I don't know how fast they could get to it now...they are 'snowed under' right now. If you just want to work on it and see what happens, I would get the gasket kit from Woodstock and replace them all; Door, ash pan door, window glass and bypass gaskets. If seams inside the stove are leaking air, when conditions are right in the fire box you'll be able to see jets of flame coming from where the air is leaking in. You may have to seal the vertical seams inside the fire box, where cement has probably cracked and fallen out from over-firing. Use a product called "Stove Sealer and Gasket Cement." It's a little thinner than regular gasket cement and you can shoot it into the seams better.

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I'm replacing the chimney with a SuperPro Class A. The height is approx 21 feet. I hope the stove isn't warped! As you mentioned, I'll try and change as many gaskets as I can (shy of rebuilding the whole stove). The ash pan locking mechanism seems a bit sketchy to me. It's hard to describe how it operates, but when engaged is doesn't have a "positive feel" to it. So, I'll be buying a gasket kit and as you mentioned (had no clue about this), I'll replace the old cracked cement and reseal the stove as thoroughly as possible. Thanks for your reply, which was most helpful.