OAK Install Ideas

I had a situation where nobody manufactured a long enough oak for my install. I ended up using pre heater hose from advance auto parts for my bends. It normally installed on exhaust manifolds so Im not worried about heat. And the long straight runs I used electrical metal conduit as close to 2 inch I could find. Terminated it outside with a 2 inch abs black screen vent. Looks very professional

Outdoor termination

Sorry for upside down photos

I just installed my OAK tonight. The piping that came in the kit was JUST long enough. My stove is a basement install so there was a rise. I hope the piping holds up as the material seems like it could tear. But so far so good!

Initial thoughts: It's hard to tell since it's a mild night with little wind, but from what I can tell the heat output seems to be pretty close to how it was without the OAK although I have noticed the drafts have almost entirely disappeared - and I have an uninsulated basement.

Have you checked out Selkirk's DT pellet vent piping yet? I used this to vent my basement pellet stove - the outer 7" liner draws air in from outside, and there is a 4" stainless liner inside that which vents the pellet exhaust out. I only have a 2 foot piece of flexible OAK pipe going from the stove to an "adapter" that allows the OAK pipe to clamp in. It's a clean install and works like a champ. If I recall, I bought the Selkirk "Up and Out Kit" that included all the odds and end parts that you need. Had to buy the long straight sections as well.

MacGyver said:

I just installed my OAK tonight. The piping that came in the kit was JUST long enough. My stove is a basement install so there was a rise. I hope the piping holds up as the material seems like it could tear. But so far so good!

Initial thoughts: It's hard to tell since it's a mild night with little wind, but from what I can tell the heat output seems to be pretty close to how it was without the OAK although I have noticed the drafts have almost entirely disappeared - and I have an uninsulated basement.

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That is pretty flimsy material, but once it is in place, it seems to be good. It is just while messing with it that it is fragile.

bogieb said:

That is pretty flimsy material, but once it is in place, it seems to be good. It is just while messing with it that it is fragile.

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That's just it. Now that it's in place I shouldn't have to touch it at all and it seems fine. I tore a little bit of the material when putting it onto the outside vent pipe but I think that has more to do with the sharpness of the piping than the material itself.

Can you go through the chimney chase (if you have one)? That's what I did for my Englander 30-NC.

Good luck!.

You really can't beat the exhaust - OAK combos. If adding OAK only, just make the OAK metal. There is a brand of conduit known as Liquid Tight, but it is plastic as I recall. Not usable for OAK in case flame goes back out in unwanted situation.

With mine being a basement install, I used some muffler adapters to get me from the stove to a 6" long flex pipe which then connected to metal vent pipe straight up with a 90 deg elbow at the bottom (flex attaches here) and at the top (outdoor shroud that goes through rim joist attaches here). The whole run is using 3" flex pipe and metal pipe. The metal vent pipe I talk about is the metal duct work pipe you see at Lowes or Home Depot.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_126383-85334-GV0436-A_0__?productId=3664094&Ntt=

Mighttt wanna think about bending that electrical conduit and saving some cash. Alot cheaper easier and closer sized then this auto exhaust stuff

Him said:

I do like this idea best - and keep going back to it. I don't have a bender for 2" pipe. Does Home Depot or Lowes bend conduit?

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Do you have any commercial electrician buddies? A metal fab shop has pipe benders or the local muffler shop could likely do it. Not sure about HD or Lowe's on bending. They want to sell elbows and such too.

Home depot sells the benders there.

Him said:

I think I am going to visit my local muffler shop and pick up two 90 degree pieces of pipe and put a flex piece between them or...order some pipe from these guys: http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/

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At $11 per 90deg they're pretty hard to beat. I used 3" (big stove) elbows combined with PVC once outside the stove. Worked great, see my Maxx-Madventure thread for details:



Cheers,
- Jeff

batchman said:

At $11 per 90deg they're pretty hard to beat. I used 3" (big stove) elbows combined with PVC once outside the stove. Worked great, see my Maxx-Madventure thread for details:

Cheers,
- Jeff

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The pvc thing will not fly for Inspection. Thus is why I had to use metal

LordmetalZ28 said:

The pvc thing will not fly for Inspection. Thus is why I had to use metal

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From the stove to the PVC is a mandrel bent steel exhaust part, as was mentioned above. I ran it for a day on "4" and was able to grab the pipe bare-handed and not feel any real warmth, so I went ahead with the PVC coupler.

Best,
- Jeff

batchman said:

From the stove to the PVC is a mandrel bent steel exhaust part, as was mentioned above. I ran it for a day on "4" and was able to grab the pipe bare-handed and not feel any real warmth, so I went ahead with the PVC coupler.

Best,
- Jeff

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I run my stove on max, and 1" from the back of the stove the OAK is like nearly freezing on a cold day (as it should be, with like 0ºF air flowing inside). Doesn't change the requirement for it to be metal.

I just got the inexpensive 3"x8' metal flex ducting from Lowes. They sell elbows for it for a few bucks also. Pretty cheap. Only issue I had was adapting the 2" kit to the 3" pipe. There wasn't any off the shelf parts for that around me, at least without traveling great distance or mail order. So I just fabbed up an adapter with some scrap sheet metal.

Wilbur Feral said:

You really can't beat the exhaust - OAK combos. If adding OAK only, just make the OAK metal. There is a brand of conduit known as Liquid Tight, but it is plastic as I recall. Not usable for OAK in case flame goes back out in unwanted situation.

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Actually Liquitite is a flex steel conduit covered by a pvc jacket. Carflex is the purely pvc flex conduit. But I still don't think it would work because of the outer jacket. Flexible exhaust pipe can be found up to 8". When I put my next stove in my basement I will use 3" exhaust pipe for the oak.

OhioBurner© said:

I run my stove on max, and 1" from the back of the stove the OAK is like nearly freezing on a cold day (as it should be, with like 0ºF air flowing inside). Doesn't change the requirement for it to be metal.

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As my stove is in finished space I was looking for a cleaner install than the flex stuff, and it's a long enough run that I wanted it to support its' own weight and not rattle. I should add that when I did my test the pipe was not hooked to the outside yet, just drawing room air, and this stove makes the room unbearable on 5 (max) so I stuck with 4 out of 5. My concern of course was conducted heat from the stove but frankly I could palm the nozzle the pipe attaches to so was not expecting it to be an issue, and it wasn't.

As to requirements, it's not like the OAK is required to pass through a thimble. My pipe is metal for a running two feet out of the stove, then a PVC sleeve over it and an opposite elbow out the wall.

Best,
- Jeff