My Annual "Clean Your Boost Baffle" Thread ...

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Dix

Dix

Minister of Fire
May 27, 2008
6,686
Long Island, NY
Lordy, one ash filled baffle tonight :mad:

A week ago Sunday it was 50F outside, Both stoves went down for a good cleaning, including the PE, specifically to clean out the boost baffle. It were semi clogged. I knew the cold snap was coming, so better to be cleaned ahead of time.

Ran both stoves hard for the past week, Really, really hard :eek:

This morning, projected temps 40F with rain, and another cold snap coming in. Best time to clean. Loaded both stoves @ 8 AM, house held the temps (came home to 65F, I'll take it !), and let them die over the day.

The PE's baffle was almost solid ash (sorry no pics). Running like a champ now.

Clean your Boost Baffle !!! ;)
 
That's funny, Dix, I cleaned my chimney last weekend also. It was warm, and we had a cold week coming. Man I'm glad I did, too. It got friggin cold! The clean chimney and stove set me up for success.
 
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I won't mention the part where it took me 1 1/2 hours to get the 13 going tonight.

The draft was horrible !
 
I actually did the exact opposite at the beginning of the season. ;) Little preface: I have a strong draft and burn a lot of pine. Thus, the air from the boost baffle just seemed to be too much on occasion; essentially turning the firebox in a furnace in a very short time frame. I crammed some gasket in the supply hole and since then the stove reacts much better to the air control. Maybe I will take it out once I burn mostly dense hardwoods like oak or locust but right now I am very satisfied with the way the stove is working.
 
velvetfoot said:
What's a boost baffle?
I sweep my chimney once a year, whether it needs it or not. :)
Click to expand...

I'm assuming it's the front and center air? Aka the doghouse air? Some clarification would help
 
Grisu said:
I actually did the exact opposite at the beginning of the season. ;) Little preface: I have a strong draft and burn a lot of pine. Thus, the air from the boost baffle just seemed to be too much on occasion; essentially turning the firebox in a furnace in a very short time frame. I crammed some gasket in the supply hole and since then the stove reacts much better to the air control. Maybe I will take it out once I burn mostly dense hardwoods like oak or locust but right now I am very satisfied with the way the stove is working.
Click to expand...

Grisu, I understand.

In the fall, it was pine. Once I hit the hardwoods, the baffle became an issue.
 
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mol1jb said:
I'm assuming it's the front and center air? Aka the doghouse air? Some clarification would help
Click to expand...

Yes. PE calls that the "boost air".
 
Grisu said:
Yes. PE calls that the "boost air".
Click to expand...

You did the same thing I did on the 30-NC. All it takes is realizing that you have to provide the makeup air with the primary air control instead of thinking you can slam it shut.

Never could understand the "shut it all the way down" thing in the first place. Anybody that burns full time is perfectly capable of knowing how much primary air the stove needs to not smolder.
 
There's just one hole in mine. Never seems to get clogged, knock on wood. I clear a path to it, sometimes anyway.
 
What I do, is every reload I push the ash and coals away from the front of the stove by a couple inches, I then take my shovel and catch the top edge of the boost manifold with it, pivot the top of the baffle forward to push any ash against it back into the firebox. Then I take the curved end of my poker and swip back and forth with it in front of the boost manifold, clearing any ash away. Then reload and go. I do this every time. Never had an issue with ash in the manifold holes in 9 seasons now. I do vac the ports out pre-season after sweeping and lighting the first fire next season.
 
BrotherBart said:
You did the same thing I did on the 30-NC. All it takes is realizing that you have to provide the makeup air with the primary air control instead of thinking you can slam it shut.

Never could understand the "shut it all the way down" thing in the first place. Anybody that burns full time is perfectly capable of knowing how much primary air the stove needs to not smolder.
Click to expand...

Actually, I still close the Super all the way once it goes over 500 F. As I understand it, the "boost air" is just supplemental. The "main" primary air is coming from over the door and is still enough once the stove is hot.
 
With the 30 the primary leak isn't enough. But what you will find is the "boost" is what causes most or all of the hazing of the glass. Without it and all air having to come in via the airwash over the glass I have crystal clear glass for a month or more.
 
Too bad, my mod did not cure the hazing. I still get some. But I also have to admit that quite a few of my pieces are longer than the recommended 18". >>
 
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