Cab 50 Wont run unless i take side panel off?

Missed it, Smokey! Having to take the side panel off is a strange one UNLESS like you also said, the OAK attachment point is blocked and taking the panel off bypasses it. There's not enough info to really form much of an opinion. The manual says the flame should be 4 to 8" high on HIGH.

tjnamtiw said:

Missed it, Smokey! Having to take the side panel off is a strange one UNLESS like you also said, the OAK attachment point is blocked and taking the panel off bypasses it. There's not enough info to really form much of an opinion. The manual says the flame should be 4 to 8" high on HIGH.

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Yup and he is getting 3 on medium likely the fuel gate is open too much, it is easy enough to walk right on past the balance point as folks tend to hurry things, that doesn't work at all in setting the air/fuel ratio of a stove when there are delays in response to adjustments.

Ryan-Cab50 said:

So i checked the gasket under the burn pot and when i took it out the gasket fell apart in 3 pieces.... So i hoping this is part of the issue, I had to put it back together for the night as best i could and its running good. We didn't do any work to the house at all only thing we did was plastic the windows. Now another thing i noticed was when i was cleaning the stove there was air coming in from the exhaust pipe so then i went and opened the door to the house and went back and that air flow that was coming in stopped. What would be the pros and cons to a Outside Air intake? Would that fix my problem of getting air coming in down my exhaust pipe>?

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Plasticizing the windows, this would have likely changed the airflow into the house (it sure did when I installed 16 double sided and gasketed interior storms I made) and just may have given the stove less oxygen than it needed.

You may want to consider that OAK.. In any event you have to get a burn pot gasket for the stove. I was thinking of a guy several seasons ago that came here. He was cleaning out his stove every day because of pile ups, he had a quad unit. Turned out there was a broken bolt holding the burn pot which of course led to an air leak around the burn pot and a poor burn, he commented about fighting with the burn pot gasket and not always being able to reuse it,

Ryan-Cab50 said:

I will get a new gasket and the other thing i noticed on another form some one was talking about that OAK and when i looked it up in my manual it says that there are two kits that will work with my Cab 50. As you read down it tells you about the kits and that one kit (811-0872) is a 2 inch flex hose (included). And then it says the other kit, OAK-3 is a 3 inch flex hose (not included) So to me this is tell me that i should have received a 2 inch flex hose kit with my stove? Anyone else get the OAK with there stoves or is it separate?

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I also saw that in our guide and the dealer we bought it from said it is sold separately. I believe the one we bought was a 2 inch. Not sure why it's in the booklet .

One of the OAK kits has the flex vent with it the other doesn't both are sold separate from the stove would be my guess, however, I'm not going to bother reading the manual yet again.

Mine sells it seperately. I haven't installed an oak with my cab. Still debating putting another hole in my brick house.
Is it common to sell 2 different sizes? I don't know which one I'd get even if I decided to do so.

saladdin said:

Mine sells it seperately. I haven't installed an oak with my cab. Still debating putting another hole in my brick house.
Is it common to sell 2 different sizes? I don't know which one I'd get even if I decided to do so.

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You need to determine how long a run you need to answer that question.

It is the air intake side of the vent system and there are restriction considerations on that side as well.

Yup up and down it be.

Looks like there is a heat related event happening

Is the door gasket sealing all the way around?

Ryan-Cab50 said:

I took out the washer on the door handle and that made it a lot tighter... i tried the dollar bill test and its all tight, some spot a little looser than other spots but id have to pull more to get the bill to move

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The holes at the bottom of the burn pot are they fully open and is the burn pot floor closed.

ETA: In case you are wondering where I am going,pressure changes inside the firebox as the temperature changes. This can lead to the vacuum system interrupting fuel feed, which in turn causes the temperate to drop once again closing the switch and allowing the feed to continue. This results in more up and down flames than would normally be the case.

There is also a fuel interrupt system on that stove IIRC (I'm old so don't always count on my memory, manuals exist for that reason amongst many). This interrupts fuel feed based upon temperature to prevent over-firing the stove. It also resets itself allowing fuel feed when the temperature drops low enough.

I understand frustrating. When you get the gasket installed I'd set the fuel gate half open and slowly adjust my flame with the stoves heat range set to high. You have to be patient since the adjust requires a full auger load to be burned before the results of the adjustment can be seen. Trust me when I say you will not be the first to miss the sweet spot, nor will you be the last. Patience tends to disappear when frustration is in full control.

This is my stove on medium. I run the feed gate almost all the way shut. What brand pellets are you using?

SmokeyTheBear said:

You need to determine how long a run you need to answer that question.

It is the air intake side of the vent system and there are restriction considerations on that side as well.

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Mine exhausts straight thru the wall. Total run is a few feet straight out the back of the stove, thru the wall, sticks out the outside of the house past the roof overhang and with no angles. Easy peasy.

saladdin said:

Mine exhausts straight thru the wall. Total run is a few feet straight out the back of the stove, thru the wall, sticks out the outside of the house past the roof overhang and with no angles. Easy peasy.

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Your OAK would likely be 2" but there are another considerations, those being the air intake needs to be lower than the vent termination, then we have to consider things like it needing to be above the snow depth and the last line below.

So the fact that you are close to the wall is a good thing there is just a bit more involved, check your manual.

The OAK termination is a powered air intake for purposes of code and the manual. Also one does not want to suck oxygen depleted air into their stove for use as combustion air, it doesn't play well with burning pellets.

Well, that makes absolutely no sense! Either your switch is screwed up with loose components inside or your spade connectors are loose and when it's outside, they are being pulled more tightly against the spades. Either way, you didn't find the problem. You only found out a cure. AND not a very good one.

It actually does make sense tj, the temperature of the vacuum switch would drop outside and away from the combustion system, which would change the pressure difference it is seeing. Think deflate gate.

Now the question becomes did you maintain the same connection location on the stove and exactly where is it on your stove?

That's a real stretch, Smokey. How many thousands of these stoves are working with the vacuum switch where it belongs and this one stove with a NEW stock switch needs it outside. Something is afoot here.

I have seen where some guys here had similar issues with the switch and factory location not wanting to work well. I did a lot of reading on the cab 50 and was looking at buying one. Another thing that comes to mind is the OAK setup draws from a cavity at the base of the stove or it will suck air in underneath it unless it gets sealed with silicone.

Basically, from what I vaguely remember, where the OAK hooks up onto the stove is a cavity and air can be still pulled from under the stove from inside air along with pulling thru the OAK. I am foggy here but I do remember reading this about the Cab 50's. Might be worth the guy to do a decent amount of researching and reading here because there is a decent amount of info on them. I just searched: Eco Cab 50 in the bar.

Not sure what the real issue is here but I do remember some mentioning the switch getting too warm where it's located from the factory or something along those lines. Dunno, but I do remember some issues with this and the OAKs.

I remember one of the guys was heating and uninsulated pole barn which will tax the unit but he did remedy the bad burn.

I've never taken a vacuum switch apart so I don't know if the side of the diaphragm that sees atmospheric pressure is sealed (which would support Smokey's theory) or if it's open to the atmosphere, which wouldn't support the heat theory. However, if it's open, bags' info about the area being unsealed would make you wonder if the one side of the diaphragm is seeing some vacuum which has to be overcome by the vacuum in the burn chamber. Take the side of the stove off and the vacuum is relieved. That could make sense to me.