NC 30 mountain of coals

Hogwildz · Jan 9, 2015

tjcole50 said:
Woah! Realistically I should fill the ol tank for days/nights like that. Small splits worked out great and I was experimenting with different t loading positions. The high wind below zero is hard to combat and that is not the nc30 fault...hell it's 8 degrees out and dropping right now. Guess what the nc30 is sitting around 5xx degrees and my house is 75 right now no wind outside. So far since 7 am the stove has been loaded twice running through its complete cycles no problem. Even last winter my propane tank sat empty all season and we got through that just fine. 99% she holds the house in the 69-70 degree range when it is below zero but once those high winds kick in I give her a serious workout. I will say I believe this stove is worthtwice it's price. Either way we are adding one to our basement (perfectly good empty chimney) and once I have a 2nd stove sitting 10 feet beneath our main floor I think the wind can hit as hard as it wants haha
I was just trying to spark some conversation regarding a unique stove/weather situation.

You're doing well. Enjoy. Furnace isn't an evil thing, and it ain't a sin to use it once in a while. I won't see 75 again for a little while.

jatoxico · Jan 9, 2015

tjcole50 said:
Small splits worked out great and I was experimenting with different t loading positions. .

I still get surprised how much a few small bits of wood on a hot coal bed can raise the stove temp. So long as the fresh wood is small enough not to add to the coal bed seems like that's the ticket.

Hogwildz · Jan 9, 2015

Poplar, the other white wood.........
Not so hard on the coaling and lots O heat, Estimated burn time 5-6 hrs. Just in time for midnight full load of oak.
This is how I burn span between hardwood long loads on the colder days.

Yes that is a crack on the baffle face.
The new design baffle seems to bow upward at the front now, instead of sagging down, design? Who knows. The belly still sags down some, but they have added stiffeners inside.
Seem to remember seeing the same bow upward on someone elses photo.
I swear the baffle is shorter front to back, I'll have to measure between the A body baffle and B body baffle.
There are some baffle design changes I took photos of, but didn't get to post yet.

Ashful · Jan 9, 2015

Just a warning, heating from a basement almost never works as hoped. Unless superbly insulated, you will be fighting five nearly infinite heat sinks, called four cement walls and a floor. It's no fun heating the earth around your home.

End result, you will get some heat upstairs, with a stove running in your basement. But, you will chew thru a LOT of wood doing it. You think you have coaling problems now? :lol

tjcole50 · Jan 9, 2015

Tons of different opinions with basement heating. I know personally some that it works perfectly others not so much. Either way our basement is to cold to enjoy in the winter. I'm still kicking around add on furnace or indoor boiler. Just sucks to give up a perfectly good chimney. For the furnace options I would have to cut out the other side of my basement where my lp furnace is located

brenndatomu · Jan 9, 2015

tjcole50 said:
Tons of different opinions with basement heating. I know personally some that it works perfectly others not so much. Either way our basement is to cold to enjoy in the winter. I'm still kicking around add on furnace or indoor boiler. Just sucks to give up a perfectly good chimney. For the furnace options I would have to cut out the other side of my basement where my lp furnace is located

I started out with a large stove in the basement (mostly unfinished), it was nice and toasty down there, upstairs, not so much. I switched to a wood furnace, upstairs now is toasty and the basement stays livable just from the radiant heat. But you may very likely have completely different results since you would have a stove on both floors.

More on subject, anybody else notice that there are never coals left in front on the lower "boost" air holes? (if you have them) My lil Defender stove has holes in the center, any wood close to those holes gets vaporized!

tjcole50 · Jan 9, 2015

The wife is pushing the cheaper furnace option. The 28-3500 englander for Jan feb / cold spells then burning and running our nc30 for shoulder above 20-30 degrees. Not my idea but doesnot sound terrible

Ashful · Jan 9, 2015

tjcole50 said:
Tons of different opinions with basement heating. I know personally some that it works perfectly others not so much.

I have seen instances where it works well, but the basement walls were insulated in all of those cases, with usually carpet on the floor. Physics is strongly against you, if you have uninsulated concrete walls and floor.

Again, not saying it won't work. Brute force is always an option. Just be prepared to chew through truckloads of wood.

tjcole50 · Jan 9, 2015

We have 6mil with 1/2" rigid white foam board and drywall in 90% of basement. Finished area is about 1/2 the basement and walled off from unfinished utility storage. I know they say 2" foam board is ideal. But 1/2" from my research offers r5 rating better than nothing I suppose just sucks debating and spending money on experimenting. Should put my 75,000 btu torpedo heater in the basement let main floor stove die and see I'd torpedo has any effect

Ashful · Jan 9, 2015

tjcole50 said:
Should put my 75,000 btu torpedo heater in the basement let main floor stove die and see I'd torpedo has any effect

Monitor CO levels, if you do. I thought those torpedo heaters were specified for use only in in-insulated garages, not houses.

I was thinking partly of you, and a few others, when I wrote this: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/the-philosophy-of-heating-large-or-drafty-homes.138930/

tjcole50 · Jan 10, 2015

Wow 6600 sq ft stone house from 1700s.... I think my 1700 sq ft 1978 house may be a tad more efficient lol that is a beast to heat man!

bsruther · Jan 16, 2015

spirilis said:
I keep around a bag of pellets and toss a short scoop on top of the coals. Gets those coals bright cherry red with yellow & blue flames and typically adds up to 100F to the stovetop temp for 20-30min or so.

This sounded like a good idea so I gave it a try. Got up this morning and had a decent coal bed, not huge but more coals than I like to have on reload. I raked out a bowl in the middle of the coals, put 2 shovels of pellets in and lit it up.It stopped burning about 90 mins later and the coal bed was just about right for a reload. Don't know if it added any heat since the stove was still giving off heat, but it seemed to work well. Thanks for the tip.

Mitch Newton · Jan 16, 2015

I have tried a new formula for burning down the coals. Rather than load up for an over night load, I open the air controls all the way and let it burn the coals down over night. I'm in bed anyway and don't really feel the lower temps in the house until I get up. The temps are always lower in the morning either way with a full load at night or just opening the air controls and letting it go. The advantage is all the coals are turned into light ash at which time I can re-load very quickly and get up to warm temps. And yes I heat successfully with a basement stove. Hardly any oil use in the last three years. I am making adjustments every year as far as insulation, service doors, venting, etc. My basement stove is heating 2200 SF basement and 2200 SF ranch upstairs. It can be done. Last years cord use was 7 cords. This year due to higher outside temps, better seasoned wood, and installing a new garage service door has resulted in a projected cord use at 5.5 cords.

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NC 30 mountain of coals

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