Outdoor forced air experience?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
R

rogdan

New Member
Jan 14, 2015
19
WV
Hello,

I am a new member to this forum and am considering one of the forced air out door systems. I am leaning toward the Fire Chief/Shelter unit but also considering the Hopsco among others.
There is little information out there on these systems so and looking for feedback from uses of these type of furnaces.
I am heating my home with forced air propane currently about 2000 sq ft well insulated and will be adding on my 1200 sq ft as of yet uninsulated basement in USDA zone 5a.
I am not considering indoor units to appease the insurance co. and allergy sufferers including myself. I will locate the furnace close to the home and run a class A chimney the full two stories to eliminate as much of the smoke issue outdoors as well one reason for not considering a short stacked boiler

Thanks
 
One of my buddies installed one of these last season. He hated the unit and sold it this past summer. They eat wood worse than a non gasification boiler. He went thru almost 16 cords last winter. Well insulated 2300 sq ft kept at 66F. He had to buy wood so that cost broke even with propane costs.
 
Don't do it PERIOD.

Use a boiler and a HX in the LP furnace plenum. OR Get a Kumma, Caddy, or some type of high efficiency scorched air rig to go inside the building.

Just my opinion...

TS
 
  • Like
Reactions: rkusek
While bringing in wood and having ash could cause some allergies, with a proper chimney and some simple housekeeping, it shouldn't be a problem. Just use common sense and don't bring in a cord of wood into the house, or be careless with the ashes. With 2000 sqft of well insulated area, even a Tundra which is not that expensive would easily heat your home. The radiant heat alone from the furnace would heat your basement. I've seen a few outdoor forced air furnaces around here, and the amount of wood they burn is ridiculous.
 
I don't know much about the forced air outdoor furnaces. What I do Know is that most insurance companies want an outdoor furnace at least 30' from any building. I also Know that water is a much more efficient way to move heat then air. At 30" away I think you will lose a significant amount of heat to the outside. It will also take significant amount of electric to run the fans
 
  • Like
Reactions: rkusek
Interesting info, thanks for the replies.
dspoon19, do you recall how far your friends unit was from the home or the maker?
I'm getting clarification from the insurance, I switched once and don't remember for sure if it was the current or previous company that would not allow a solid fuel in home system. I also want to avoid smoke in the home as the kids can't tolerate it, we basically can not visit friends with wood stoves in the winter.
 
It was right next to house. Maybe 3 feet. He ran chimney up past roof line. Worst part of install was the 2 monster ducts running through the outside wall.

Water has a specific heat of almost 4x that of air, keep that in mind when making your decision.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bioman
From my experiences and reading these hot air furnaces use almost double the wood that a non gasification boiler would and 4 times what a gasification boiler with storage would use. Get a hydronic appliance, it will save tons of time, wood, and money.
 
rogdan said:
I'm getting clarification from the insurance, I switched once and don't remember for sure if it was the current or previous company that would not allow a solid fuel in home system.
Click to expand...

Don't be discouraged if your current insurance company won't allow a solid fuel appliance in the house. There are several other reputable companies that do.
 
I have never encountered a single user of an outdoor forced air furnace that was happy with their decision. Overall system efficiency with those things unless extreme insulating and sealing measures are taken has to be well below 20%.
You simply cannot believe how much heat can be lost from an outdoor steel duct even wrapped with insulation. I see people use insulated flex duct for this purpose and invariably the mice and other varmints have chewed their way into it within weeks.
 
Primary concern is the smoke indoors but also outdoors as I often see and smell it laying on the ground from the short stacked boilers.
 
Getting above $5000 in total cost eats into payback considering I get by in $1500 in propane in an average winter but I am not heating the basement now.
 
Simplicity is also key to have the average HVAC guy do the install and less complications down the road from a less complicated system.
I'm close to Horizon's and have considered their boilers but there seems to be a myriad of small issues with users, also indoors though.
 
  • Like
Reactions: hartkem
rogdan said:
Getting above $5000 in total cost eats into payback considering I get by in $1500 in propane in an average winter but I am not heating the basement now.
Click to expand...

I would burn propane before installing an outdoor air furnace.
 
What about an Air-Source Heat Pump? I have no clue what the install costs are, but they also serve as air-conditioners from what I read.

Edit note: There are cold climate air-to-air heat pumps that can work at temperatures around -20 degrees celcius.

Looking at what I can see here they cost about 10k to install.
 
Last edited:
My inlaws have a bryan forced air outdoor furnace. They like it and its pretty effecient.
 
rogdan said:
Primary concern is the smoke indoors but also outdoors as I often see and smell it laying on the ground from the short stacked boilers.
Click to expand...
If smoke is a concern, then stay away from forced air altogether. It have to be the worst type of heating for moving allergens EVERYWHERE, including wood smoke. Radiant moves the least amount of air so the least amount of allergens as well.
TS
 
rogdan said:
Getting above $5000 in total cost eats into payback considering I get by in $1500 in propane in an average winter but I am not heating the basement now.
Click to expand...
If people around here could heat their houses for $1500 a winter with oil/LP then there would be a lot fewer alternative heat installations.

TS
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

logibear25
New house build question
Replies
7
Views
2K
The Boiler Room - Wood Boilers and Furnaces
flyingcow
flyingcow
R
42 Apex vs Z42
Replies
11
Views
748
The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces
tcurrie
T
P
Name Brand Air to Water Heat Pumps getting closer to US
Replies
12
Views
1K
The Green Room
peakbagger
P
F
Outdoor Wood Boiler CL 5036 Pump Size & Plumbing Questions
Replies
2
Views
3K
The Boiler Room - Wood Boilers and Furnaces
fuzzybird
F
EbS-P
Let’s talk home ventilation and indoor air quality, Hearth.com style.
Replies
45
Views
3K
DIY and General non-hearth advice
Prometeo
Prometeo
Top Bottom
Back