Vogelzang VG-5790

Flat rope gasket is one option, but how and where to fix it is the problem.

As for the auger motor, there should be a label on it, take a pic and post it here.

Kurlus said:

I'd have to know what the auger voltage was and hook up an external supply to push it. Neither of which do I have, though I could probably borrow a supply from work.

@IHATEPROPANE: What would you recommend for sealing the gap?

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If it were my stove I would get some flat rope gasket and wedge it between the pot and cradle with a small screwdriver. The gasket may have to be cut to be small enough to wedge in there, but there is where I would start. This fix was done to my stove by the dealers tech for a similar type of gap. Which I was able to modify over time for a more permanent kind of fix.

motor is 1.5 RPM CCW
Starting torque is 125 in/lbs @ 115V 60 H

no other motor in that factory

Owen1508 said:

motor is 1.5 RPM CCW
Starting torque is 125 in/lbs @ 115V 60 H

no other motor in that factory

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Trust that information only when personally verified Owen.

It is like trusting the good ole my stove is so clean you could eat off of it response we get all the time on here that turns out after many posts to the thread not to be what the situation actually is/was.

Kurlus said:

Oh no if there's one person on here I whole heartedly trust it's Owen LOL

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You aren't really getting the messages, it is fire you are playing with, never trust information that you have not verified.

The plant may indeed think it only has 1.5 RPM motors but that doesn’t prevent a screw up from happening and the plant having other than 1.5 RPM motors. Even when marked by the motor maker that doesn't mean the motor is a 1.5 RPM motor.

You are trying to determine why your stove is consuming more pellets than you think it should, we are laying out some of the things that need to be verified plus some other things that relate to burn issues seen on several stoves.

Kurlus said:

Oh no if there's one person on here I whole heartedly trust with the stoves specs it's Owen LOL

@IHATEPROPANE: I'll give that gasket a shot today

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Just make sure the pot remains seated as it is intended. It is easy to go gasket crazy and have the burn pot become misaligned.

My pot sits just like that one. I do not have any issues. Just throwing that out there.

Johnny_Fiv3 said:

My pot sits just like that one. I do not have any issues. Just throwing that out there.

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Can you upload some pictures for comparison.

SmokeyTheBear said:

You aren't really getting the messages, it is fire you are playing with, never trust information that you have not verified.

The plant may indeed think it only has 1.5 RPM motors but that doesn’t prevent a screw up from happening and the plant having other than 1.5 RPM motors. Even when marked by the motor maker that doesn't mean the motor is a 1.5 RPM motor.

You are trying to determine why your stove is consuming more pellets than you think it should, we are laying out some of the things that need to be verified plus some other things that relate to burn issues seen on several stoves.

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True vendor error can never be overlooked.

Those are what the motor spec are suppose to be. I posted so you can check them against what you have

Here are the auger timings on the 5790

HR ON Off
1 1.8 sec 6 sec.
2 3.0 sec 4.5 sec
3 3.5 sec 3.0 sec
4 5.0 sec 3.0 sec
5 6.0 sec 3.0 sec

Edit: I did type it all nice with spaces sorry it smushed

Control Board Test VG5770 and the VG 5790

Version 1.3

Press and hold the mode button and temp arrow up simultaneously for approximately 3 seconds.


A number (1.3) will appears in the display. This will tell you the version control board you have. Press any button to move to the next step. Follow the below procedure:


1. SEGMENT LIGHT DISPLAY. PRESS ANY BUTTONJ TO MOVE TO THE NEXT STEP.

2. 8. FLASHES FROM LEFT TO RIGHT ON THE DISPLAY TESTING DISPLAY LIGHTS. PRESS ANY BUTTON TO MOVE TO THE NEXT STEP.

3. THE BAR GRAPH LIGHTS WILL FLASH FROM THE BOTTOM TO THE TOP. THEN IT WILL SWITCH TO THE RED LED ABOVE POWER OVER TO GREEN ABOVE POWER. THE DEGREE PUTTONS WILL LIGHT UP WITH FARENHEIGHT FIRST THWEN CALSIUS. TSTAT THEN MANUAL WILL LIGHT UP THE LIGHTS WILL BLINK IN THIS ORDER UNTIL YOU MOVE TO THE NEXT STEP. PRESS ANY BUTTON TO CONTINUE.

4. TEST THE LIGHTS OF CONTROL PAD. ALL LED’s WILL LIGHT UP. THE DISPLAY WILL SHOW 8.8. PRESS ANY BUTTON TO MOVE TO THE NEXT.

5. S1 WILL APPEAR IN THE DISPLAY TO CHECK POWER BUTTON. PRESS POWER BUTTON TO MOVE TO THE NEXT STEP.

6. S2 WILL APPEAR IN THE DISPLAY TO CHECK MODE BUTTON. PRESS MODE BUTTON TO MOVE TO THE NEXT STEP.

7. S3 WILL APPEAR IN THE DISPLAY TO CHECK THE TEMPERATURE ARROW UP. PRESS THE TEMPERATURE ARROW UP TO MOVE TO THE NEXT STEP.

8. S4 WILL APPEAR IN THE DISPLAY TO CHECK THE TEMPERATURE ARROW DOWN. PRESS THE TEMPERATURE ARROW DOWN TO MOVE TO THE NEXT STEP.

9. S5 WILL APPEAR IN THE DISPLAY TO CELSIUS/FARENHEIGHT BUTTON. PRESS THIS BUTTON TO MOVE TO THE NEXT STEP.

10. DR APPEARS IN THE DISPLAY. YOU WILL HEAR THE EXHAUST BLOWER RAMPING WITH THE DOOR SHUT, ON SOLID WITH THE DOOR OPEN. NO LIGHTS. PRESS ANYU BUTTON TO MOVE TO THE NEXT STEP.

11. RF WILL APPEAR IN THE DISPLAY ONLY IF THE LOW LIMIT IS BYPASSED OR NOT IN THE PROPER OPEN POSISTION. IF THE DISPLAY IS BLANK, THE LOW LIMIT IS OPEN (GOOD) ANF THE BLOWER WILL NOT COME ON. TO TEST THE ROOM BLOWER IF THE LIMIT SWITCH IS GOOD, YOU WILL HAVE TO BYPASS THE LOW LIMIT AND RERUN THE TEST. PRESS ANY BUTTON TO MOVE TO THE NEXT STEP.

12. IG APPEARS IN THE DISPLAY. NO LIGHTS. THE IGNITER SHOULD GET HOT. PRESS ANY BUTTON TO CONTINUE. (WILL NOT LIGHT IF THE HIGHER TEMPERATURE HAS TRIPPED).

13. AU APPEARS IN THE DISPLAY. NO LIGHTS. THE AUGER WILL FEED PELLETS. PRESS ANY BUTTON TO CONTINUE. (IF AUGER DOES NOT TURN, CHECK HOPPER SWITCH).

14. THE DISPLAY WILL SHOW THE TEMPERATURE READ OUT OF THE THERMOSTAT WIRE. THIS SHOULD BE CLOSE TO THE AMBIENT ROOM TEMPERATURE. PRESS ANY BUTTON.

YOU HAVE NOW FINISHED THE TEST. THE DISPLAY WILL BE CLEAR WITH A RED LED LIT ABOVE THE POWER BUTTON.


This also may help some of you

IHATEPROPANE said:

Can you upload some pictures for comparison.

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I can once it's shut down again. Just did the LBT deep clean yesterday and am running now. It's my primary heat. I'll try and remember next time I shut down though.

Owen1508 said:

True vendor error can never be overlooked.

Those are what the motor spec are suppose to be. I posted so you can check them against what you have

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Yes and that is why I try to get things verified. It is that 40+ years of chasing this and that again, sometimes it boiled down to a single character missing in several thousand lines of code. Verify, always.

Thanks for the additional information Owen.

Kurlus said:

Alright, had the local tech stop in today and verify that everything was running good. I didn't time all the settings but on low, it's 2 on, 4 off. Stove is burning about 1.5 bags every 24hrs and it's producing heat! Glorious heat! LOL

Hey I'll take it. Uploading some pics on manual 2 with it tweeked. I took Ihatepropane's suggestion and added gasket around the burnpot, which of course put more air thru it, so I had to damper it lower but it's running good.

The door thermo runs between 250-300 degrees and I use pretty much a flat 2 bags a day on manual 2.

Thank god it's no longer burning 3, on low!

Glass is a little dirty in a couple pics, but once tweeked it cleared up.

All pics were of it running on Manual 2

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Nice!! Sounds like you got things working well.

Awesome glad to hear that.

Sweet, I knew Owen and others here would guide you in the right direction.

Make sure you keep that beast clean.

Owen, I think someone needs to look at what they gave you for timings that 1.8/6.0 you have for low is according to the owner who has one 2/4.0 which is a 30% higher feed rate than your documents indicate.

IHP, eventually the rest of the folks will figure it out.

Cladmaster, what is this clean you are yammering about?

Thus concludes this lesson, or does it?

Hallelujah.

Sounds like maybe a 1 RPM auger motor might give better controlability, especially since the board programming seems to be all over the place.

funflyer said:

Sounds like maybe a 1 RPM auger motor might give better controlability, especially since the board programming seems to be all over the place.

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Could be but the board programming may have other things besides general timing, "features" that we haven't uncovered or has been disclosed to us.

We still haven't bothered to figure out the actual RPM rate of the motor. Nor do we know the loading volume available to load with pellets and so forth and so on.

SmokeyTheBear said:

Owen, I think someone needs to look at what they gave you for timings that 1.8/6.0 you have for low is according to the owner who has one 2/4.0 which is a 30% higher feed rate than your documents indicate.

IHP, eventually the rest of the folks will figure it out.

Cladmaster, what is this clean you are yammering about?

Thus concludes this lesson, or does it?

Hallelujah.

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LOL That was our department when we test burn them. We don't rely on any spec given to us, we (tech) usually document our own findings.

RTV will work at a much cheaper price

Owen1508 said:

RTV will work at a much cheaper price

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it was a blockage in rear of stove

sweets said:

it was a blockage in rear of stove

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sweets said:

it was a blockage in rear of stove

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The new gaskets r nice but pricey