Want to throw my quadrafire cb1200i out the front door

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
Pellets are north Idaho energy pellets. Best I've had so far and I've tried about 7 brands before burning 3pallets last year and almost a pallet this year before the problems started. After I made my initial post I pulled the burn pot out an it is free of ash and obstruction. I haven't had a clinker since I started using these pellets. Just did the dollar bill test on the door. Bottom 3 sides I can't pull it out, as well as the far right side. top and far left it pulls out with minimal effort. Maybe that's the problem. Just pulled the entire stove out and disconnected the vent/chimney pipe, clear maybe 3 tablespoons of ash at the elbow. Trap door clear as well.
Since your stove is fairly old, the top of your door probably doesn't have any gasket so the airwash works to keep the glass clean, hence you don't do a dollar bill test up there.
You don't say if you've ever had your combustion blower out for a thorough cleaning of the impellers and the chamber itself. Also, you had the burn pot out but didn't say if all those holes and the slit are clear. Is the dump valve on the bottom tight enough? It should not be sagging down. When you put the burn pot back in, did you use a new gasket?

What is your exhaust system like? Out the side or up?
 
  • Like
Reactions: kappel15
Has to be a wire. you can test the motor with an old lamp cord or such as it is 110volt. And never remove or install the control box without unplugging stove first as you can toast the box. Unplug stove and make sure control box is seated properly. They can work loose sometimes. kap

Good morning Kap, after leaving it over night and finding my volt meter I tested the blower motor wires and they are good. Yesterday when working on the stove I noticed the contact that the white wire toward the aft of the blower motor was loose. I pulled the connector off and the contact came with it. I popped it back in and figured no big deal. This morning with no built up frustration, I pulled the blower motor off again for a closer look. There is wire that attaches to the connector while plugging in. It was broken so no current to the motor. Pretty sure I will need to buy a new motor now as the wire broke off behind the fabric looking tape. Bummer the motors are expensive and mine was working and quiet. I will also be buying a fire pot gasket, door seal, and blower motor gasket. Any tips that might save me from having to buy the motor?
 
Since your stove is fairly old, the top of your door probably doesn't have any gasket so the airwash works to keep the glass clean, hence you don't do a dollar bill test up there.
You don't say if you've ever had your combustion blower out for a thorough cleaning of the impellers and the chamber itself. Also, you had the burn pot out but didn't say if all those holes and the slit are clear. Is the dump valve on the bottom tight enough? It should not be sagging down. When you put the burn pot back in, did you use a new gasket?

What is your exhaust system like? Out the side or up?

There is a gasket around the top that looks the same as the bottom. Last night I pulled the combustion blower and cleaned out the area behind. Less than a cup of ash. I took the motor outside and blew the fan and motor with an air compressor. All holes in burn pot and igniter slit are clear. Dump valve is tight as well. I do need to get new gaskets for burn pot and blower motor. See my response to Kap as well. Thanks for the input.
 
There is a gasket around the top that looks the same as the bottom. Last night I pulled the combustion blower and cleaned out the area behind. Less than a cup of ash. I took the motor outside and blew the fan and motor with an air compressor. All holes in burn pot and igniter slit are clear. Dump valve is tight as well. I do need to get new gaskets for burn pot and blower motor. See my response to Kap as well. Thanks for the input.
Hmmm, so there's no airwash???? Interesting. Didn't know that unless someone jury rigged the gasketing.
It sounds like you found the problem with the blower motor.
 
Could the air wash be incorporated into the glass frame gaskets and not the door gaskets?
My experience with gaskets, its the working gaskets that loose their effectiveness. Static gaskets like the window glass that don't move probably are not an issue.
 
Could the air wash be incorporated into the glass frame gaskets and not the door gaskets?
My experience with gaskets, its the working gaskets that loose their effectiveness. Static gaskets like the window glass that don't move probably are not an issue.

image.jpg That is the inside of my door
 
Apparently my exhaust blower is an aftermarket Jakel j238 series. Mountianview hearth has them on back order until 2/6. So I'm currently looking for another source.
 
I'm currently looking for another source.
Try Woodman's Parts Plus. They stock a lot of stuff. 603-522-8216 or on line. They are in NH. I ordered some Harman parts from them right during the holidays and had them 2 days later. They had good prices also on what I was ordering. They have all kinds of parts and you can call also. Just an option and there may be others.
 
View attachment 151671 That is the inside of my door
There looks to some issues with the door gasket. Angle of picture does not allow for the viewing of the upper glass gasket if there is one there.
Hopefully the new motor will help get you going. Maybe be lucky and someone will chime in on another source.
 
Try Woodman's Parts Plus. They stock a lot of stuff. 603-522-8216 or on line. They are in NH. I ordered some Harman parts from them right during the holidays and had them 2 days later. They had good prices also on what I was ordering. They have all kinds of parts and you can call also. Just an option and there may be others.
Thank you.
 
There looks to some issues with the door gasket. Angle of picture does not allow for the viewing of the upper glass gasket if there is one there.
Hopefully the new motor will help get you going. Maybe be lucky and someone will chime in on another source.

There is no upper glass gaskets, I'm guessing this is what you were talking about earlier. I didn't realize at first that there are two separate gaskets.
 
Thank you.
Your welcome and good luck. Have you stove year make model and serial number handy. It simplifies things. Go you have Grainger Supply anywhere around? They can cross reference part numbers too. Are pellet stoves very popular out there? Just curious. Do you have problems getting pellets?
 
Good morning Kap, after leaving it over night and finding my volt meter I tested the blower motor wires and they are good. Yesterday when working on the stove I noticed the contact that the white wire toward the aft of the blower motor was loose. I pulled the connector off and the contact came with it. I popped it back in and figured no big deal. This morning with no built up frustration, I pulled the blower motor off again for a closer look. There is wire that attaches to the connector while plugging in. It was broken so no current to the motor. Pretty sure I will need to buy a new motor now as the wire broke off behind the fabric looking tape. Bummer the motors are expensive and mine was working and quiet. I will also be buying a fire pot gasket, door seal, and blower motor gasket. Any tips that might save me from having to buy the motor?
Sorry. Time for a new one. kap
 
Motor issue aside, make sure your exhaust is clear all the way up including the cap. As mentioned earlier, any restriction in the exhaust venting will cause the original symptoms you started with.
 
Motor issue aside, make sure your exhaust is clear all the way up including the cap. As mentioned earlier, any restriction in the exhaust venting will cause the original symptoms you started with.

I will be checking/ cleaning the cap tomorrow whilst waiting on parts. Thank you all for your help. I will let you know when I'm up and running.
 
Your welcome and good luck. Have you stove year make model and serial number handy. It simplifies things. Go you have Grainger Supply anywhere around? They can cross reference part numbers too. Are pellet stoves very popular out there? Just curious. Do you have problems getting pellets?


Apparently pellet stoves are popular. Every Home Depot, lowes hardware, and feed and tack store sells them. Even Costco and Walmart have had them before. I haven't had any trouble buying pellets. Toward the end of the season they get scarce but a couple feed and tack stores keep them year round for stall bedding. I'm going to do some local checking tomorrow for the motor. Thanks.
 
It might be simple but also check the wire (spade) connectors going to /from the snap disks. I had strange issues with my CB1200 and it turned out to be loose connections for snap disk 2. Quick pinch with needle-nose pliers and it was good to go.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DMKNLD
It might be simple but also check the wire (spade) connectors going to /from the snap disks. I had strange issues with my CB1200 and it turned out to be loose connections for snap disk 2. Quick pinch with needle-nose pliers and it was good to go.

I will double check those. Thank you.
 
You might be able to get your present motor wiring fixed if you take it to a motor repair shop that does motor rewiring. Shouldn't cost much if you can find a place and they say they can fix your wire.

If you have already ordered a new one I would still check repairing your old one out and if repairable keep it as a spare.

Just a thought.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bmckillip
I want to thank everyone for their advise and input. I really appreciate it. I was able to get a new combustion/exhaust blower and after installing it, and blasting my vacuum hose with a shot from an air compressor, I'm back up and running. I just received my door gasket and fire pot gasket in the mail today and a re-usable blower gasket. I will be installing those in the near future. Sean from Mountain view Hearth in Montana is a wealth of knowledge and very willing to help over the phone as well. Thanks again. Until next time. Bryan
 
I'm sure you all have been waiting at the edge of your seats for a conclusion to my stove saga. Ha ha. After another week of less than reliable service I again was at my breaking point. Especially after spending around $320 in parts. I found the original analog thermostat in a box left by the previous homeowner, I installed it and continued to have spells of the stove running great and not at all or shutting down prematurely. So I called Sean back at Mtn View Hearth. We jumpered the #2 snap disc and the auger motor wouldn't even come on. So I performed my first bench test of the motor and low and behold, it was bad. Anytime I grabbed the output shaft with pliers it stopped. Then as soon as I let go it would start again. As you all probably know, anytime the auger met resistance or heated up it would stop. So my new motor should be here today. I almost have a new stove now. And, I'm pretty sure I can open a quadrafire repair business.
 
I almost have a new stove now. And, I'm pretty sure I can open a quadrafire repair business.

And now you also know your stove inside and out and will probably be able to fix anything that comes up again :)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.