Black Stove Pipe Cleanout Tee with Crimp in Middle Section

http://www.amazon.com/Wiss-WC5L-5-B...8&qid=1422298686&sr=8-1&keywords=pipe+crimper

Any box store or good hardware store will have the right tool... Probably let you demo it in the store if you ask nice.

I have the tool that Mike linked, not that easy to use on black stove pipe...usually there is a way to pull it off with manufactured parts.....it might take some research but you can probably find the variation you need , you might have to change out a neighboring piece to set you up.....

I've used the crimp tool on black stove pipe without issue, bought it from HD, has a red handle. Any sheet metal, fireplace/chimney, or heating and cooling shop will probably do it for minimal charge as well.

I'm almost positive my T is crimped (male) on the T stub side. I'll have to check that out next time I'm by it.

Actually, wouldn't it have to be for the rest of the pipe sections to fit 'properly'? (So mess will run down the inside).

Interesting - that's all I see on the site where I think I got mine too. I must be mistaken about mine. Only having that option though would pretty well have to lead to pipe being installed the 'wrong' way wouldn't it? Crimped/male ends of pipe are supposed to point down? I've got 2 Ts' - one right on the back of my boiler, that's the new one I put in with the new boiler couple years ago. The other is on the bottom of my chimney, that's been there since we built 20 years ago. I must have at least one section of pipe pointing the 'wrong' way somewhere in my setup then.

You can also add a collar,,,just strap, screw, and heat tape the joint, works well if you take your time....

Mine I drilled out the rivet and slipped over the boiler collar, then cinched it on with some stainless hose clamps head-to-tail.

KenLockett said:

Here is photo. Anyone see issues with putting tee here and hence clean out?

Click to expand...

I hope not, I just converted mine from an elbow to a tee last fall for the same reason!

That is almost identical to my setup - I have a T where your elbow is. It makes it very easy to keep things clean, by popping the cleanout cap off. You can get both ways - up the pipe, and into the boiler with the right kind of angled cleaner thingy or even just using a gloved hand. I even have the same slight incline for about the same distance, and the same 90 into the bottom of the chimney (mine has a baro there though). Probe location is very similar too. I find most of the ash settles in the slight incline - very easy to get to. Also easy to plug a piece of sump pump hose onto the end of a shop vac wand and get it all kinds of places.

I just went & looked at mine & my memory was a bit faulty. I do have the female non-crimped T end, fitting onto my boiler. Mine just barely fit onto my boiler collar, over it. Very tight fit, I remember that part now. I was worrying it would split the T at the seams when I was putting it on, so after I got it on I put a couple screws into it to hold it in place (the collar was very hard to drill pilot holes into also, that memory came back too). I would try fitting the T onto the collar before you get crimps done - I was sure mine wouldn't fit at all the way it was until I actually tried it. There are also strap type collars you can use to connect - that was my backup plan.

A little dark but here is what I installed last year, I also picked up a small inspection camera from HD, after remove the cover and clean, I send the camera up for a quick look....

KenLockett said:

seems like you guys are just a few steps ahead of me! I finally caught on though. Yeah, by the end of the season that incline section is full of ash and very fine crud. Probably impacts draft slightly as it builds thus reducing pipe diameter internally. Anyhow, next time I shutdown for cleaning I'm going to implement. Tired of trying to reach in from inside boiler through elbow into the section. Scraped up my hands and elbows many times doing this. With respect to the female in attaching to the collar I had originally done that on install. Piece was EXTREMELY tight over collar and when it rusted out I had a helluva time getting it off. put a 5" reducer piece internal to collar instead of over. Distance from tee to collar just a little too far for direct tee connection so easier just leaving internal reducer in collar then short section of 6" pipe from there to tee. Thanks for the input guys!! I always get answers and excellent feedback always!

Click to expand...

I just re-checked my install thread. There is a pic of mine, in the first post on page 2.