Burning Montecito Estate without using blower

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Undercover

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Jan 27, 2015
6
Maryland
So I have a house under construction and had a Montecito Estate zero clearance fireplace made by Astria (previously Lennox) installed. I was anxious to use the fireplace and was hoping it would provide some heat to the 3200 sq. ft. home since the power company is taking its good old time to get electric service installed. I have been using a propane heater inside and was hoping to save some money on propane by burning wood. I am obviously unable to use the blower at this time and I am a bit disappointed in the performance of the unit without a blower. I am hoping that the blower will make a huge difference in the heat output. I have not been able to keep the fire going for any extended period but the time it does burn seems to do very little for warmth. I was also thinking I would not have to worry about heating the house during a power outage but I guess I better plan on running the blower off of generator power.
I would appreciate any feedback or suggestions from anyone.
 
How seasoned is the wood you're burning, when was is cut/split?
 
Flush fireplaces and flush inserts rely on a convection blower to get the heat into the room.
 
Deadfall is hit or miss. Often it can be surprising how much moisture is still in the wood, especially the trunk. A few months of drying time won't be enough to get it seasoned then. I recommend getting a moisture meter to test the wood. Warm some splits up to about room temp, then split them in half and press the pins in the center of the fresh surface. It should read below 20% for a proper burn.
How did the fire do when you closed the air control? What was your final setting?

Was gravity vent installed? Is the fireplace on an exterior or interior wall? Was the cavity around it insulated?
 
Grisu said:
Deadfall is hit or miss. Often it can be surprising how much moisture is still in the wood, especially the trunk. A few months of drying time won't be enough to get it seasoned then. I recommend getting a moisture meter to test the wood. Warm some splits up to about room temp, then split them in half and press the pins in the center of the fresh surface. It should read below 20% for a proper burn.
How did the fire do when you closed the air control? What was your final setting?

Was gravity vent installed? Is the fireplace on an exterior or interior wall? Was the cavity around it insulated?
Click to expand...
 
Grisu said:
Deadfall is hit or miss. Often it can be surprising how much moisture is still in the wood, especially the trunk. A few months of drying time won't be enough to get it seasoned then. I recommend getting a moisture meter to test the wood. Warm some splits up to about room temp, then split them in half and press the pins in the center of the fresh surface. It should read below 20% for a proper burn.
How did the fire do when you closed the air control? What was your final setting?

Was gravity vent installed? Is the fireplace on an exterior or interior wall? Was the cavity around it insulated?
Click to expand...
The fire burns well once established with a good hot coal bed and I am able to close the air control about 3/4 to get a nice slow burn. I think I will be much happier when I get electric and can run the blower. Just thought it would warm up house better than it does without the blower.
No gravity vent. It is on an exterior wall and it was insulated behind it.
 
Undercover said:
The fire burns well once established with a good hot coal bed and I am able to close the air control about 3/4 to get a nice slow burn. I think I will be much happier when I get electric and can run the blower. Just thought it would warm up house better than it does without the blower.
No gravity vent. It is on an exterior wall and it was insulated behind it.
Click to expand...
Where can I find a moisture meter?
 
Lowes, Menards, Home Despot or on line. I was surprised at how easy a meter is to find. I got mine in the tool dept at my local Lowes for about $20.
 
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